Tip Advise against using locking hitch pins for RV toads (towed vehicles)

[Neal]

You're lucky you had the tools to handle that. I also had an issue with the locking hitches at the toad side where I couldn't get them out so I'd tap them gently. After that something was buggered up that I couldn't get it into the locking side as that must be a high tolerance fit. I could not be happier to have the locking pins out of my life. Never a concern but I do make it part of my pre-departure walk-around to ensure the cotter pin is in place.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

We have used locking pins in the past, but since we started using a hitch tightener...

HT-3 Hitch-Vise Anti-Rattle Clamp by Hitch Rider Racks

Class III receiver hitch model Hitch-Vise anti rattle clamp.

www.hitchrider.com

...we don’t see the need. It would take the proper wrenches and some time to get things to the point where the tow bar could be removed from the receiver. If the bad guys want to spend that much time and effort getting my tow bar without me noticing, good luck.

TJ

 

[WyoTraveler]

Saw some ads recently going around on Facebook for a rust-free locking hitch pin. I'm pretty intrigued considering I've had to grind off my last two pins.
Not sure if it works with a solid billet hitch, or not. That's what we have on our hay truck (doubles as our Bell camper hauler). Anyhow, here's their link in case in helps anyone with corroding pins/locks. Hilgard Pin™

 

[MapNerd]

An anodized aluminum hitch pin would be pretty rust proof, but I am not sure if it would be able to take the stresses.

i have started giving my hitch pins a few coats of plastidip. Seems to be working well.

 

[WyoTraveler]

An anodized aluminum hitch pin would be pretty rust proof, but I am not sure if it would be able to take the stresses.

i have started giving my hitch pins a few coats of plastidip. Seems to be working well.

Looks like that's just the handle. Says, Titanium for the actual "Pin" component. That would definitely be rust-proof and strong.