Tip Advise against using locking hitch pins for RV toads (towed vehicles)

[CaptainGizmo]

Ok. I keep hearing people talk about “disconnecting their TOAD in case of fire”.


As a fire dude, I’ve already considered a plan for this extremely rare situation.

Let me offer a fact that some of you may not be thinking about...

You haven’t specified WHICH vehicle is on fire, but I can make a case that it’s better to disconnect at the TOAD side arms, rather than pulling just the hitch pin and yanking the whole assembly from the coach!

Here’s why:
When you disconnect your TOAD, you want to be able to DRIVE it away...INCLUDING BACKING AND GOING FORWARD. If you have the entire assembly hanging in front, you’re not gonna be able to do much more than back up.

A coach fire is one I would be very concerned about detaching quickly, and the odds that a fire would be close enough to prohibit me from disconnecting are slim.

I’m not afraid of a vehicle fire at all, in terms of knowing flame spread. But, I will say that, IF there was significant fire under the hood that is impinging the bumper area, the last place you should be in right in front of it messing around with the tow bar. so, in that rare rare case, insurance time.

Just my $.02 of fuel in the fire. ?

 

[Neal]

The fires I've observed in this realm are in the TOAD and I'm not sure accessing the pins on the FIRE side is doable or a good idea. Regardless, I don't use locking pins on either side so both are an option for me. The TOAD (for me) takes a procedure to make driveable, that is not happening in a fire situation. My intent and what I've learned is the toad is on fire and I want to disconnect and break away the RV to protect the RV. I don't care if the toad burns to the ground. I do for my RV. I used locking pins initially and will never again. I'll wait for the day that I hear of anything from surge protector, autoformer, tow bar getting stolen at a campground. To date I have not and it's not a concern of mine and I think a fire is potentially a higher probability. It could start from a locked up brake and yes, I've left my emergency brake partially engaged (thankfully not fully) on one 200mi leg that could have caused a fire from that situation. Luckily it did not.

Do as you wish, for me it's quick disconnect as my option and no locking pins anywhere.

 

[CaptainGizmo]

I support your thought process Neal.
It’s a matter of pulling one pin, or two.

Heck, I’ll even throw this idea in the mix...
LEAVE YOUR BREAKAWAY CONNECTED when you pull your coach away. Hopefully, that’ll still engage your TOAD BRAKE!! The thing you don’t want to do, is let your Flaming TOAD start rolling downhill or into traffic, and I’ll bet 99% of folks won’t think about throwing a set of chocks under the wheels before disconnecting.

 

[CaptainGizmo]

P.S. this also came in handy when I had to have engine work done with rear access, they needed the tow bar off. Don't forget about this if you take it in for service.

Man. I just had a horrible thought...

What “if”, Ya can’t get locking pin unlocked...for any reason?

Yikes...I may have to reconsider. ?

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

If you use a hitch tightener, pulling the pin in the hitch receiver won't work. Pulling the two pins on the tow arms will.

TJ

 

[CaptainGizmo]

Good point, TJ!

 

[DKRITTER]

When we bought our DS and F150 a little over a year ago I ordered a Blue Ox Avail from ETrailer.com (great folks) and did the install myself. Tow bar wasn’t quite level, so I bought a drop bar.

I quickly noticed at speed the truck seemed to float L/R enough it bothered me. When we got to our destination I installed 2 hitch immobilizers and it made a huge difference. I also bought the lock kit and have used them every time w/o issue.


This thread causes me to question using the locks.


Has anyone ever experienced theft or tampering of the unlocked pins causing a dangerous situation?


Has anyone ever experienced failure of a non-locking pin or clip?

 

[jagpot]

Simple answer, put a Lock-Pin in your HITCH only; that's what I do. So, that fully protects your Tow Bar from being stolen. (Who the heck would...never mind)

For me, the Pins on the TOAD are NOT locking and this is why...

For the "bump & run" stops, where my Raptor stays connected overnight, that's the ONLY time I'm at risk of having someone disconnect me. However, it's impossible for me to drive off with it disconnected since I do a "cross-check" every single time I depart.

Now, for those of us who are paranoid or have heard other's misfortune, there IS a risk that I don't hear anyone mention. I hope auto-burgs aren't reading this. IF...IF...some crook really wanted to pull a sneaky one, they'd roll up with a flat-bed wrecker, pull the TOAD pins, disconnect the safety cables, and yank that sucker onto the flatbed, and off they go with a $65k Raptor!

Let me be the contrarian here. As one who has had a hitch pin pulled as a prank (years ago), I still use a locking pin; and, will continue to do so.

We carry extra, and readily accessible, fire extingushers, so that's my first line of defense as soon as I get stopped. Then, rather than get between the toad and the coach (and partially underneath the coach to boot) to pull the hitch pin, I can just pull the two pins that secure the tow bars to the toad, disconnect the safety cables (you have to do that regardless of what you unhook) and signal my co-pilot to pull away. The pins that secure the arms are out closer to the sides of the toad and are much more accessible to reach and pull.

As a plus, this keeps my tow bar assembly secured to the coach when I am parked and prevents tampering or theft. The individual tow bar pins are only in use when actually towing, so even if they are tampered with or stolen I will know about it the next time I go to connect the toad.

Oh...and, I also lock my PI EMS PT50X to the power pedestal. Locks keep honest people honest and insurance covers the rest.

TJ

Possible?...sure. Realistic?...not a chance. Why? Because the only time the Raptor would be alone and hooked up in "NEUTRAL TOW", would be when we are actually SLEEPING in our coach. In this case, I’d hope we’d be alerted by some noise, and then “deal” with this situation accordingly.

So, while there IS a remote chance of a "prank" from some idiot pulling your pins, the WORST thing that could happen, is that you're STUCK WITHOUT SPARE PINS!! Which reminds me...dangit...forgot about ordering a pair!

And, for the ultra paranoid, guess ya better order another set of tow arms, too, because NOTHING LOCKS THOSE TO THE TOAD! The super devious could simple release those with a quarter twist...and there ya go...disconnected TOAD!

ok here we go again! PI EMS PT50X ???? I have an Air Force One do I have this?

 

[Neal]

Progressive Industries surge protector:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015Y9A4HU/?tag=rvf01-20

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

ok here we go again! PI EMS PT50X ???? I have an Air Force One do I have this?

The "PI EMS PTX50" is a Progressive Industries surge suppressor and power circuit tester. Some RVs have a built-in surge suppressor, but many do not.

This is a unit that plugs into the park electrical power post. Your coach power cable plugs into it. The purpose is to guard against damaging power spikes as well as low-voltage situations that can damage things like air conditioners, etc.

Do you need one? Well, I do, but I see some folks doing without them. I guess it boils down to how much of a gambler you are.

This unit instantly detects a power spike and opens the electrical circuit, preventing high voltage from entering your coach's electrical system. It also monitors low voltage and drops the circuit out if the voltage gets below a preset level. Unfortunately, many RV parks suffer from the low-voltage situation. More on that in a minute.

An additional benefit of the PI EMS PT50 is that it can run a diagnostic on the park power source before you plug in, detecting improper grounds, dead or reversed legs, etc. That allows you to verify the integrity of the power source before you plug in.

Back to the low-voltage situation for a moment. Many RV parks (especially older ones) have poorly constructed power distribution systems; undersized writing, poorly maintained breaker boxes. odd-ball wiring not done by a qualified electrician, etc. In these parks, when occupancy levels get high (park is more than half full or so) and everyone turns on their air conditioners, voltage levels sag...sometimes to dangerously low levels. Nominally, the power should be at 120 volts under load. I have seen some parks where the voltage sags to less than 100 volts in high-use periods. Bad for coach electrical systems and appliances.

So, you may also see references to a "Hughes Autoformer" in regard to low-voltage. This is another "accessory" that can boost voltage levels about 10% and prevent electrical damage to the coach systems. Do you "need" that? Probably only if you will be staying in older RV parks or places not designed for modern motorhomes. You will find that RVers tend to carry a number of "accessories" that protect their safety or that of their coach.

TJ