belt and tensioner change

[mschluns]

2016 Winnebago Forza 34t 6.7 cummins. 45,000 miles. Rear Radiator. Rear bed covers access doors to engine. I am looking for advice/procedure on replacing belt and tensioner on my 34t. It has developed an annoying chirp/squeal. I do most work on her now. I would prefer not to remove the bed assembly. Can this be changed from underneath ?. Looking for any hints or advice you all may have. I have the new belt and tensioner. The main cover under the bed only shows the top of the engine. about 30" square cover. I would have to remove bed frame to access the second cover. That cover is smaller. Thanks in advance.

 

[Rich W.]

This guy did his belt change from the drivers side by removing the air filter assembly, and an intercooler hose. Both the water pump and tensioner are on that side with reasonable access. This is a 2014 Thor Pallazo but probably nearly identical to your chassis.

Warning: while this video has a weath of information, it is a struggle to watch, his terminology is not always correct, he doesn't always use the best tool for the job, it’s much longer than necessary, and its the first time he’s attempted this job.

But it is also the only one I could find on an XC chassis and it does clearly illustrate the issues you will face when tackling this job. I’d be tempted to get an estimate from a good Frieghtliner shop first and and then see if it meets the cost/benefit/hassle threshold. For me if the labor was $300 or less, Id let them do it.

 

[Rich W.]

Here’s the sequel where he plays with the water pump and examines the belt. Thankfully its a lot shorter. I included this because it made me think your squeak might be the water pump and not the tensioner.

 

[latech]

THat pump is making noise from the seal rubbing on the pump shaft, inside the pump. It may or may not indicate a problem

 

[The Nomadic Mechanic]

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2016 Winnebago Forza 34t 6.7 cummins. 45,000 miles. Rear Radiator. Rear bed covers access doors to engine. I am looking for advice/procedure on replacing belt and tensioner on my 34t. It has developed an annoying chirp/squeal. I do most work on her now. I would prefer not to remove the bed assembly. Can this be changed from underneath ?. Looking for any hints or advice you all may have. I have the new belt and tensioner. The main cover under the bed only shows the top of the engine. about 30" square cover. I would have to remove bed frame to access the second cover. That cover is smaller. Thanks in advance.

Advice from a Cummins Mechanic (The Nomadic Mechanic): It can be a HUGE hassle to reach anything at the front of the engine there. First thing I usually do with a belt noise in a situation like that is something unconventional... I use a large dab of gray silicone on the ribbed of the belt. I will shut the engine down and place a couple of quarter sized dabs about a half inch thick... then I will start it. If this noise goes away it will stay away in most cases... A little silicone won't hurt the belt or the pulleys, it just adds a little traction to the belt. I've replaced numerous belt tensioners for this reason and found no change, or intermittent change which leads to the noise returning. This method will tell you if it is a pulley noise or just a belt that has an unusual wear pattern. I've found it difficult to pinpoint the root cause of a chirp sometimes. First and foremost you should check the belt for cracks and missing grooves/ribs. Second I would check the edges of the belt for damage, like exposed threads/cords, Third I would give the belt a quick tug and see if it FEELS loose. If none of these concerns are present you should try the silicone trick... I've done this 20-30 times over my 20 year carreer. It's always like working a miracle.

Let me know if you have any other questions... It sounds like you already know how much of a pain it is to change the belt and tensioner. I would have to evaluate your individual situation to be of any assistance as far as more advice is concerned. Make sure you take photos or draw yourself a diagram for the belt routing if you DO start taking it apart.

- Austin Prather (The Nomadic Mechanic)

 

[Joe Hogan]

Not sure this recall is relevant but it is a similar cummings engine and year. The recall is very specific so you might want to check part numbers. The failure scenario is somewhat alarming, so to speak.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2017/RCRIT-17V562-2127.pdf

 

[Rich W.]

THat pump is making noise from the seal rubbing on the pump shaft, inside the pump. It may or may not indicate a problem

Exactly what I was thinking and it would concern me. Ive installed a water pump on a Cummins 6.7 and the new one didnt make any noise. Since they are relatively cheap (around $100), and easy to replace if you're that far into it anyway, I’d replace a pump making that sound.

 

[Neemer]

- Austin Prather (The Nomadic Mechanic)

Welcome. It’s always good to have a pro aboard.

 

[The Nomadic Mechanic]

Welcome. It’s always good to have a pro aboard.

Thank you much! Safe travel to you all! Please feel free to reach me if need be!

Have a wonderful day!

 

[latech]

Exactly what I was thinking and it would concern me. Ive installed a water pump on a Cummins 6.7 and the new one didnt make any noise. Since they are relatively cheap (around $100), and easy to replace if you're that far into it anyway, I’d replace a pump making that sound.

I thought the same. Chances are a noise from a shaft seal like that means it is dry and wearing out

 

[mschluns]

I want to thank all those who replied to my belt, coolant pump and tension change on my Forza. It also took 6 gallons of coolant and a new air filter canister. I used all Gates parts and a Baldwin filter. I used Napa heavy duty coolant, same pinkish red color that was in it. I removed air filter box and piping. There was a longer pipe I removed also, after cooler?. 3 pieces of support steel and a tensioner of sorts that bolted to the radiator. I could then sit it an open area which allowed me to reach into work area. Was easy to use 1/2 long handle ratchet to release tension. I unhooked wire going to fan blade assembly and took out the 1/4 20 bolt. I then slipped the belt over the fan. I took a plastic storage bin and placed under water pump. 2 bolts and pump was off. drained the 5 or 6 gallons into the tub. Removed tensioner and reinstalled all the parts. this took me about 12 hrs over 2 days. Using the same procedure as the Youtube video. The metric flex head wrenches and long 1/4" extensions helped quite a bit. In all I was in for right at $425 in parts. I loosely installed old air filter , upside down, so I could start the engine and check my work. saved about $700 in labor. I feel this is a 1 man job due to the limited space. Once again thanks.

 

[Rich W.]

Great information - thanks for the update

 

[Engleman]

Ugg!! I think most shops would remove radiator?? Just thinking of trying to work on changing that stuff where its located would be tough!! I have the rear radiator as well!! Certainly would be a much faster job with the side mount!!