Canned Ham Restoration

[wardejii]

Welcome to RVF, @wardejii; glad to have you here with us.

I have the same question as @Kevin D Pem; "restore or rebuild?" A true "restore" will use the same materials as the original, and in the same configuration. The idea would be to make it like it was when it was new. "Rebuild," OTOH would be to make the unit fully functional once again but not necessarily the same as it was when new. Either is an admirable goal, but each would take a different direction.

It is hard for me to give much meaningful feedback without known where you want to go with this project.

TJ

Just started duplicating new frame

Welcome to RVF, @wardejii; glad to have you here with us.

I have the same question as @Kevin D Pem; "restore or rebuild?" A true "restore" will use the same materials as the original, and in the same configuration. The idea would be to make it like it was when it was new. "Rebuild," OTOH would be to make the unit fully functional once again but not necessarily the same as it was when new. Either is an admirable goal, but each would take a different direction.

It is hard for me to give much meaningful feedback without known where you want to go with this project.

TJ

Just started duplicating New frames for both sides. Kreg Jig and glue? Keep it the same as old one but may add an additional window on curb side.

 

[wardejii]

I guess I would ask restore or rebuild? What is left inside any of the original appliances?

Nothing 1x and insulation

 

[Kevin D Pem]

You are moving to fast! I have no service on weekends so can't keep up with you.

Heres the deal, I like standard frame spacing that way it is easer to make the cabnets. Won't add much weight. Second note is The restoration you show is not painted per original. They did two tone back then but it sure looks great and it matters little.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

By the way the cabinets are part of the structure. I used a one piece roof. Oh let me explain, I assembled the inside roof with rafters and plywood. It makes it easer to keep the walls aligned so when the tin goes on all will align.

 

[wardejii]

You are moving to fast! I have no service on weekends so can't keep up with you.

Heres the deal, I like standard frame spacing that way it is easer to make the cabnets. Won't add much weight. Second note is The restoration you show is not painted per original. They did two tone back then but it sure looks great and it matters little.

Kevin
Just started building the frames (sides) today.
The road side wall had 2 vertical 1x3’s. Once I get the perimeter put together and windows framed, I will add more 1x3’s. I’m with you on standard frame spacing.

 

[wardejii]

Kevin
Just started building the frames (sides) today.
The road side wall had 2 vertical 1x3’s. Once I get the perimeter put together and windows framed, I will add more 1x3’s. I’m with you on standard frame spacing.

Kevin
Did you use 1/2” or 3/4” for floor?
Thinking of using 1/2” marine grade plywood, little pricing but won’t have to worry about rot.
Will try to sand blast and paint Frame this week. Still undecided on axle and /or springs.
Don’t want to break a spring on Alaska trip.

Shape of trailer will mimic a 1955 Tini-Home but guess that’s where similarities will end.
Have no idea what original looked like nor the inside. One step at a time. Thanks for input.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Kevin
Just started building the frames (sides) today.
The road side wall had 2 vertical 1x3’s. Once I get the perimeter put together and windows framed, I will add more 1x3’s. I’m with you on standard frame spacing.

My seista had 1x2 construction so I rebuilt with the same. The radius on the ends they used plywood with the radius cut on them and stacked for the proper stud size, I did the same. I used .187 birch ply for the sides and roof with .125 under the alu sheet. I also used .125 for the radius bends. I used alu for all the out sided in 8 or 10 foot by 4 foot sheets and put them together using UHB 3M tape. Fiberglass has advantages over alu in hail storms but my vintage was left unpainted. I think I lost my pics with a hard drive failure but I will keep looking thru my backups.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Kevin
Did you use 1/2” or 3/4” for floor?
Thinking of using 1/2” marine grade plywood, little pricing but won’t have to worry about rot.
Will try to sand blast and paint Frame this week. Still undecided on axle and /or springs.
Don’t want to break a spring on Alaska trip.

Shape of trailer will mimic a 1955 Tini-Home but guess that’s where similarities will end.
Have no idea what original looked like nor the inside. One step at a time. Thanks for input.

I used 1/2 marine on the floor, flexed but ply works great anyhow. I used a high end vinyl that had fiber mat for the base to keep cracking at the seams of the wood at bay. No matter what type of ply you use it will rot, it's all in the treatment you use. A little heads up. Treat the topside of the floor. Leave the underside untreated. Use tar paper or Tyvex on underside of insulation. This gives a place for water to drain that reduces the chance of rot. Don't use outside compartments. No matter how convenient they, are most often that is where water comes from.

If you must have a roof vent consider using a small swing out window on the side instead. Nothing inside or out smelled of 1960 other than shape of my rig. But I got a lot of the We had one of those when we were small anyhow. My rig had 720watts of solar on the roof with no way of connecting shore power. It had electric fridge, 110 lighting and outlets. only a 15 gal freshwater holding tank, no others. An entry bench that raised for the porta -potti. and the sink drained via a garden hose.

Inspect the axle and replace the springs. that is my thought.

I build projects the way Saundra does hobbies. When I am through with my projects and am through playing with them I try to sell them for what I have tied up in them. The Siesta sold for a very small profit. There is no money saving with such a project, but it is a fun project for people that must have one.

 

[wardejii]

I used 1/2 marine on the floor, flexed but ply works great anyhow. I used a high end vinyl that had fiber mat for the base to keep cracking at the seams of the wood at bay. No matter what type of ply you use it will rot, it's all in the treatment you use. A little heads up. Treat the topside of the floor. Leave the underside untreated. Use tar paper or Tyvex on underside of insulation. This gives a place for water to drain that reduces the chance of rot. Don't use outside compartments. No matter how convenient they, are most often that is where water comes from.

If you must have a roof vent consider using a small swing out window on the side instead. Nothing inside or out smelled of 1960 other than shape of my rig. But I got a lot of the We had one of those when we were small anyhow. My rig had 720watts of solar on the roof with no way of connecting shore power. It had electric fridge, 110 lighting and outlets. only a 15 gal freshwater holding tank, no others. An entry bench that raised for the porta -potti. and the sink drained via a garden hose.

Inspect the axle and replace the springs. that is my thought.

I build projects the way Saundra does hobbies. When I am through with my projects and am through playing with them I try to sell them for what I have tied up in them. The Siesta sold for a very small profit. There is no money saving with such a project, but it is a fun project for people that must have one.

Finished with the sandblasting over the weekend, painted the frame with Rustoleum rusty metal primer. Front was primed and painted grey.
Wheel wells were cleaned up, primed and flanges were rebuilt.
Next up, get frame, springs looked at and wheel bearings replaced.

 

[wardejii]

Kevin,
Planning on using treated 2x3’s for stringers on frame, then 1/2” marine plywood.
I thought of covering bottom of plywood with (roof) Ice an water shield but you are saying to leave it uncovered, makes since it won’t hold any moisture that way. Tyvex in between plywood and insulation or to cover insulation?.
What did you use to seal top of marine plywood? No outside compartments or roof vent.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Kevin,
Planning on using treated 2x3’s for stringers on frame, then 1/2” marine plywood.
I thought of covering bottom of plywood with (roof) Ice an water shield but you are saying to leave it uncovered, makes since it won’t hold any moisture that way. Tyvex in between plywood and insulation or to cover insulation?.
What did you use to seal top of marine plywood? No outside compartments or roof vent.

To cover insulation. this will keep the wood warmer in cold climates so it will stay dryer. I use Tompson. The glue for the vinyl will stick to it and it won't peal.