Ceramic washing

[davidndeb]

Ok guys with ceramic coating. What do you use to wash you coach with? Foam gun, which one? Chemical, which one? I read somewhere to not use a pressure washer so I guess its a garden hose attachment with a bottle for soap? Thanks for any experience recommendations.

 

[CaptainGizmo]

There's not any controversy on this subject (tongue in cheek). I've made several videos with the full setup which is the "gold standard" for ALL coach washing; whether ceramic or not. My findings are based upon years of learning and research, but I'm sure many will argue for their favorite products. I wanted to keep this generic, but I see you want to know "what" I use, so I'll embed links for you. While there ARE similar high-quality products that I use/used, realize that I'm not entertaining the use of cheap products. They just don't work as well and, when you're protecting a $5k+ ceramic job, with $2k of PPF, let alone &&&& of paint, why would you try to save a little bit of cash on a products?

Feel free to browse my youtube channel (@RVSquaredSteve) if you'd like to "see" more about the details, but I will list the bullet points for you.

• A pressure washer (like Active 2.0) is absolutely fine, and actually needed for a lot of the heavy lifting. Lower pressures with correct nozzle orifices are mandatory, as is understanding how to use one.
• De-ionized water is 100% necessary to insure a spot-free wash. Adam's now makes the Pro50 DI tank style I use.
• High-quality Ceramic Coatings, like from Bob Moses, will allow you to keep your coach clean with nothing more than a DI rinse off for “most” lighter washings.
• A high-quality Ph-Balanced soap (Adams Foam Shampoo) is mandatory for the protection of ALL coatings.
• A foam cannon (like MTM Hydro) is needed to lay down a good blanket of foam needed to lift off the dirt. Paying for quality makes a difference...don't cheap out...you'll notice a difference...and DO NOT rely upon the piece of crap provided with pressure washers.
• A bug-remover (Bugs N all is working the best for me) and pad on a pole (Aero is the bomb for this stuff) work great on the windshield.
• The less you "touch" your coach, the better. However, there will be times when you need a wash mop and/or Rag-company mitt. A Mary Moppings Lambs wool is the standard, but there "IS" a bit of newly found tests that say a high-quality micro-fiber mitt will release dirt better. A good pole and head makes life so much easier; I love the Aero system for that.

Again, there's much more as to how to connect and use all this, but this is a lot of info to start you.
HTH

 

[davidndeb]

There's not any controversy on this subject (tongue in cheek). I've made several videos with the full setup which is the "gold standard" for ALL coach washing; whether ceramic or not. My findings are based upon years of learning and research, but I'm sure many will argue for their favorite products. I wanted to keep this generic, but I see you want to know "what" I use, so I'll embed links for you. While there ARE similar high-quality products that I use/used, realize that I'm not entertaining the use of cheap products. They just don't work as well and, when you're protecting a $5k+ ceramic job, with $2k of PPF, let alone &&&& of paint, why would you try to save a little bit of cash on a products?

Feel free to browse my youtube channel (@RVSquaredSteve) if you'd like to "see" more about the details, but I will list the bullet points for you.

• A pressure washer (like Active 2.0) is absolutely fine, and actually needed for a lot of the heavy lifting. Lower pressures with correct nozzle orifices are mandatory, as is understanding how to use one.
• De-ionized water is 100% necessary to insure a spot-free wash. Adam's now makes the Pro50 DI tank style I use.
• High-quality Ceramic Coatings, like from Bob Moses, will allow you to keep your coach clean with nothing more than a DI rinse off.
• A high-quality Ph-Balanced soap (Adams Foam Shampoo) is mandatory for the protection of ALL coatings.
• A foam cannon (like MTM Hydro) is needed to lay down a good blanket of foam needed to lift off the dirt. Paying for quality makes a difference...don't cheap out...you'll notice a difference...and DO NOT rely upon the piece of crap provided with pressure washers.
• A bug-remover (Bugs N all is working the best for me) and pad on a pole (Aero is the bomb for this stuff) work great on the windshield.
• The less you "touch" your coach, the better. However, there will be times when you need a wash mop and/or Rag-company mitt. A Mary Moppings Lambs wool is the standard, but there "IS" a bit of newly found tests that say a high-quality micro-fiber mitt will release dirt better. A good pole and head makes life so much easier; I love the Aero system for that.

Again, there's much more as to how to connect and use all this, but this is a lot of info to start you.
HTH

Thank you Capt. I'll certanly check out your videos and the products you mentioned. Man, you hear so much from "experts" but I'll take experience every day.
Thanks again.

 

[Neemer]

High-quality Ceramic Coatings, like from Bob Moses, will allow you to keep your coach clean with nothing more than a DI rinse off.

I also went the Bob Moses route, and I consulted with @CaptainGizmo prior to doing so. He has already hit the highlights I would have in this thread.

The only thing I’ll mention concerns the above quoted comment. I think the result he’s referring to is not possible if you live and/or travel east of the continental divide.

Driving through rain puts a coating of road film on your coach that, in my experience, requires no less washing effort than before. It still takes me 1.5-2 hr to give my coach a thorough cleaning. With that said, I’m happy with the results of the Bob Moses process and product.

I just returned from traveling the Ohio and PA turnpikes. I’m parked in my driveway waiting for a break in the weather so I can get rid of this crap.

 

[CaptainGizmo]

The only thing I’ll mention concerns the above quoted comment. I think the result he’s referring to is not possible if you live and/or travel east of the continental divide.

Driving through rain puts a coating of road film on your coach that, in my experience, requires no less washing effort than before.

Yeah, thanks Ed. I didn’t articulate that point very well an have edited it to reflect the point I was trying to make. And that is, “most” of the time, a light washing can be as simple as a quick rinse off.

Agree with you that, once you see rain with road grime, time to break out the soap! And that’s no matter WHERE ya drive! ;-)

 

[davidndeb]

I also went the Bob Moses route, and I consulted with @CaptainGizmo prior to doing so. He has already hit the highlights I would have in this thread.

The only thing I’ll mention concerns the above quoted comment. I think the result he’s referring to is not possible if you live and/or travel east of the continental divide.

Driving through rain puts a coating of road film on your coach that, in my experience, requires no less washing effort than before. It still takes me 1.5-2 hr to give my coach a thorough cleaning. With that said, I’m happy with the results of the Bob Moses process and product.

I just returned from traveling the Ohio and PA turnpikes. I’m parked in my driveway waiting for a break in the weather so I can get rid of this crap.

I agree about road grime. It sticks like glue. Thanks for you input.