T.J.
RVF Regular
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2022
- Messages
- 13
- Location
- Richmond, TX
- RV Year
- 2010
- RV Make
- Roadtrek
- RV Model
- 190 popular
- RV Length
- 20'
- Chassis
- 2009 Chevy express 3500
- Engine
- 4.8L V8
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Thank youThe freezer chills first, then (gradually) the fridge temp will drop. Also, where is your thermistor located presently? Slide it up to the top (of the metal fins) for lower fridge temps. Note: Even if the plastic thermistor holder is at the top, pull it off (the fins) and look inside the plastic slider... Is your thermistor at the top of the plastic slider? If not, just push it up until it is, then place the plastic slider back on the metal fins up towards the top.
Thank youThe Dometic we had in our old coach didn’t have the thermistor, just the setting on the panel for coldness.
We did add a couple computer fans to the air intake panel and had a couple battery powered fans in the refrigerator portion to help with air circulation.
The fans in the outside made a large difference to the overall operation and how well it cooled. Ice cream actually got hard in the freezer.
The above is correct, the first thing that will get cold when starting up is the freezer then you will notice the fridge portion getting cold.
One of the internal fans we used in the fridge portion was directed at the fins in the back to help circulate air across them.
Ours was the large 4 door fridge in our Forester.I have never seen a Dometic fridge without a thermistor. All of them have to have one of some kind. The newer ones just have settings on the upper board that change how the board on the back can "see" the thermistor.
These fridges use ammonia as a circulating through tuber and coil system to cool. This system is very susceptible to failure if they are not level. Over time the ammonia crystalizes and restricts or blocks the flow of the ammonia. When this happens the only choices are to repair the fridge (complete new cooling elements) or replace the fridge. I am not saying that is the case with yours but I did want you to be aware of the possibility. Speaking from experience lost my fridge this way. Replaced with Resi fridge.Fridge no working, but freezer is.
Your post brings up the leveling issue! However the thermistor, vent between compartments, and overloading, would be the likely causes in this instance. You have brought up something that I see needs addressing!These fridges use ammonia as a circulating through tuber and coil system to cool. This system is very susceptible to failure if they are not level. Over time the ammonia crystalizes and restricts or blocks the flow of the ammonia. When this happens the only choices are to repair the fridge (complete new cooling elements) or replace the fridge. I am not saying that is the case with yours but I did want you to be aware of the possibility. Speaking from experience lost my fridge this way. Replaced with Resi fridge.View attachment 21355
Kevin are so correct, it is very important that when the rig is parked on the level surface the fridge itself needs to be level. So to accomplish this first, level the RV use a good level not just the leveling system indicators. Once the RV is truly level check the fridge and level it. Now you are good to go. You only need to do this once to ensure fridge is level. Make sure you lock the levelers. Having the fridge level within the RV means everything is on the same plane. However when you park your RV it is important that it is level. If the entire RV is not level then you have a fridge that is no longer level and are asking for trouble. Mine failed when it was not level front to back. This type of failure does not typically happen from one time of being parked in an unlevel situation. My rig was used when I purchased it so I have no way of knowing how frequently it was not properly parked with the fridge running.. I added a photo of the back of my old fridge as I was in the process of changing it out. Kind of shows the construction and system Kevin is talking about. I am sure there have been changes to design as this is a 2006.Your post brings up the leveling issue! However the thermistor, vent between compartments, and overloading, would be the likely causes in this instance. You have brought up something that I see needs addressing!
A propane refrigerator that you might find today, likely has a double walled boiler, this design keeps the wall in contact with the brine below the160 degree Chrystal forming temperature, so unless the ammonium is trapped In the workings, due to an unlevel condition, Chrystals should not be forming.
It should also be noted that leveling is more important side to side of the fridge itself. Most will handle front to back unlevel conditions. This is why some s/v cruisers have propane refrigerators. Most failures are related to the controls,low voltage on the 12vdc system, or the previously posted responses.
Thank youThese fridges use ammonia as a circulating through tuber and coil system to cool. This system is very susceptible to failure if they are not level. Over time the ammonia crystalizes and restricts or blocks the flow of the ammonia. When this happens the only choices are to repair the fridge (complete new cooling elements) or replace the fridge. I am not saying that is the case with yours but I did want you to be aware of the possibility. Speaking from experience lost my fridge this way. Replaced with Resi fridge.View attachment 21355
ThanksThe Dometic we had in our old coach didn’t have the thermistor, just the setting on the panel for coldness.
We did add a couple computer fans to the air intake panel and had a couple battery powered fans in the refrigerator portion to help with air circulation.
The fans in the outside made a large difference to the overall operation and how well it cooled. Ice cream actually got hard in the freezer.
The above is correct, the first thing that will get cold when starting up is the freezer then you will notice the fridge portion getting cold.
One of the internal fans we used in the fridge portion was directed at the fins in the back to help circulate air across them.
This technology is over 100 years old. No they have not changed it much. Another failure point with these is freezing. It will cause a blockage also.Kevin are so correct, it is very important that when the rig is parked on the level surface the fridge itself needs to be level. So to accomplish this first, level the RV use a good level not just the leveling system indicators. Once the RV is truly level check the fridge and level it. Now you are good to go. You only need to do this once to ensure fridge is level. Make sure you lock the levelers. Having the fridge level within the RV means everything is on the same plane. However when you park your RV it is important that it is level. If the entire RV is not level then you have a fridge that is no longer level and are asking for trouble. Mine failed when it was not level front to back. This type of failure does not typically happen from one time of being parked in an unlevel situation. My rig was used when I purchased it so I have no way of knowing how frequently it was not properly parked with the fridge running.. I added a photo of the back of my old fridge as I was in the process of changing it out. Kind of shows the construction and system Kevin is talking about. I am sure there have been changes to design as this is a 2006. View attachment 21380
These fridges are one of the most common causes of fires in coaches. If in doubt google RV fridge fires. It is very scary.This technology is over 100 years old. No they have not changed it much. Another failure point with these is freezing. It will cause a blockage also.
I predict that in the near future lithium will replace RV refrigerator fires as number one.These fridges are one of the most common causes of fires in coaches. If in doubt google RV fridge fires. It is very scary.
I would agree the potential is there.I predict that in the near future lithium will replace RV refrigerator fires as number one.