Electrical/Plumbing Grommet

[Jwl_Atlanta]

Has anyone ever had to replace the grommet in the electrical & plumbing bays? Mine is getting pretty chewed up in the plumbing bay and I wanted to get ahead of this whnen it is ready to be replaced. How difficult a project is this? Thanks!!

 

[Neal]

Newmar replaced mine twice, I'm on my 3rd. They finally used a different type (don't have a pic at the moment) that has held up much better and no problems over a year now.

 

[Richpatty]

Would be curious if anyone has replaced it...as mine is a bit beat up too. The one for the water hose is fine...

 

[whereRVapp]

I just replaced the grommet in our electrical bay, which is just really two pieces of gasket, a couple months ago. I can’t remember the exact cost, but it was easily under $10. Newmar sent a piece that I cut in half. Removed the old one, cleaned the area, and glued in place with Geocel Pro Flex or equivalent.


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[MapNerd]

My question is whether anyone has installed one of these where it didn’t come from the factory that way. I wish I’d added a special for them to add one in my pegboard bay where I keep my extension cord reel.

 

[lostinfla]

Not sure about the Ventana, but on the DS with the "Star" chassis, that cutout is in the lower extended frame rail. One would have to do some major modification cutting and welding to do it right.

 

[Neal]

Here is the one Newmar installed that's finally lasting without cracking.

 

[Joe Hogan]

We have been lucky in this regard. The CanyonStar power cabinette grommet has lasted over 18+ months since new without issue.

A good source of parts info is Newgle Newgle, Newmar's product database | Newmar

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

I think it helps to preserve the grommets (power and wafter bays) if the cable/hose is wiped down before inserting and after removing. We periodically wipe down our cable and hose with Armor-All which provides a slick surface to slide easily in and out of the grommet.

TJ

 

[Joe Hogan]

We use 303 Aerospace protectant for all rubber seals.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

We use 303 Aerospace protectant for all rubber seals.

Good point, Joe. Treating the seals/grommets with 303 (or similar) is an excellent idea.

TJ

 

[MapNerd]

Emailed Newmar and got a quote for installing the cord channels in our driver's side rear bay where the engine block heater outlet is, as well as in the peg board bay. $500 for both - which I think is actually a pretty decent deal to have it done by Newmar and not have to worry about it. So for all of you out there adding cord reels and whatnot to your storage bays, this seems like a no-brainer if you'll be at the service center soon.

We'll be there at the end of August to resolve warranty items and have 1 year factory service performed.

 

[Neal]

Emailed Newmar and got a quote for installing the cord channels in our driver's side rear bay where the engine block heater outlet is, as well as in the peg board bay. $500 for both - which I think is actually a pretty decent deal to have it done by Newmar and not have to worry about it. So for all of you out there adding cord reels and whatnot to your storage bays, this seems like a no-brainer if you'll be at the service center soon.

We'll be there at the end of August to resolve warranty items and have 1 year factory service performed.

That's good but also realize you can run a cable out a bay AND close the door on it. The seal will compress around the cord, you won't damage the cord.

 

[MapNerd]

That's good but also realize you can run a cable out a bay AND close the door on it. The seal will compress around the cord, you won't damage the cord.

I'd think that over time you might warp the seal though. Maybe I'm wrong. Either way, I prefer the factory installed approach. If they'd said $1,000 or more, I'd probably be looking at doing it myself but $250/channel is reasonable imo.

 

[JohninFL]

We use 303 Aerospace protectant for all rubber seals.

303 gets my vote!

 

[Dutch Star Don]

On my DS, I removed the grommet in the wet bay, down to the metal. I used a small rubber (metal backed) "U" shape material to protect the edges of the opening. With the grommet removed, I can get both my SaniCon hose (with sheath cover) and water hose to fit in the channel and close the bay door. No need to run the hoses through the floor. When I break camp, I place a racquetball in the opening for critter prevention.

 

[Old-RV'er]

I have found that twisting the power cord a bit when removing helps to make the removal and insertion a bit easier and less stress on the material used. Mine is also starting to fail, and I forgot that on my list of defects. The water hose does not seem to be affected. Believe it's because the diameter is smaller.