BLOG I winterized the RV and it still froze. Why?

[Neal]

https://www.rvtravel.com/ask-dave-i-winterized-the-rv-and-it-still-froze-why-rvdt-2021

 

[redbaron]

Doesn’t seem very smart.

There is absolutely no way to blow out all the water. Cannot be done. I have never seen that as a primary recommendation as a safer solution to Rv antifreeze.

I personally blow out the lines and then leave cabinets open with a ceramic heater. I also leave valves open and drain lines open. This gives the water a place to go if it does freeze.

We generally get a week of continuous 20F weather, so I feel safe with this process.

If I was leaving it in a non electric site or in colder weather I would be adding the Rv antifreeze as additional safety.

 

[osuallen]

Second only to those who think opening the low point drains is adequate.

 

[Wemustrv]

I live in Iowa and we get to -30 on occasion. With that said I winterize our coach using the compressed air method. I have not had any issue with any freezing. The key is that blowing the lines is more than just the main lines. I do not want antifreeze in my tanks as it leaves a flavor I do not care for. We do use our water

My Process
1. drain all water. Do not forget you water heater. I drain with all my faucets sprayer and shower open. This is important as it eliminates the possibility of vacuum preventing the water from draining. I let this drain for mutlip[le hours until all water has drained,
2. Close all drains
3. install the air adapter to the water fill port Not the antifreeze port.
4. Open the faucet farthest from the fill port.
5. Turn on the air to 30# psi or less.
6. Let air flow through the lines until no water comes from the faucet and work your way through all the faucets and spray heads. Remember to do both the hot and cold. Do not forget your outdoor faucet.
7. Open the toilet flush valve to clear water from toilet
8. I unhook the water lines feeding the in door water and ice. I also unhook the main line to the fridge and remove the filter.
9. I remove the faucet, shower and sprayer heads. Also remover main filter in the water fill compartment
10. I leave all faucets open
11. I disconnect my water pump lines. Mine are very accessible.
12. I add antifreeze to my traps and toilet bowl

Even if there is a very small amount of water in the lines this method give room for expansion. I have been following this recess for 10 years with no issues.

 

[Holdmybeer]

I've never pumped antifreeze through the plumbing system, opting instead to drain the entire system, including water filters and 12v pump, clear the lines of water with compressed air and fill the p-traps with RV antifreeze. It's survived 0°F for extended periods without a problem.

 

[Neal]

Good info @Wemustrv. I opened all faucets and shower and blew out the lines at 40 psi. I flushed toilets to make sure all water was out of those lines. I then used 5 gallons of anti-freeze and poured in all drains and put a gallon in the toilet and flushed it. Also the water at the refrigerator door.

I opened the low point drain to the fresh tank.

I need to find the OASIS heater drain and do that. I also need to open my house filter canisters (2) and make sure the water did get blown out of those.

A few items not done and could be of a concern: ice maker, line to gen bay for spigot up front (need to do that next visit, at least open the faucet). I did miss blowing out the wet bay shower spigots but I opened them, nothing came out.

If we are forecasting severe cold I'll likely go put the heat on just to be safe.

Inverters do remain running (2) and they do heat the basement by default.

 

[Holdmybeer]

I live in Iowa and we get to -30 on occasion. With that said I winterize our coach using the compressed air method. I have not had any issue with any freezing. The key is that blowing the lines is more than just the main lines. I do not want antifreeze in my tanks as it leaves a flavor I do not care for. We do use our water

My Process
1. drain all water. Do not forget you water heater. I drain with all my faucets sprayer and shower open. This is important as it eliminates the possibility of vacuum preventing the water from draining. I let this drain for mutlip[le hours until all water has drained,
2. Close all drains
3. install the air adapter to the water fill port Not the antifreeze port.
4. Open the faucet farthest from the fill port.
5. Turn on the air to 30# psi or less.
6. Let air flow through the lines until no water comes from the faucet and work your way through all the faucets and spray heads. Remember to do both the hot and cold. Do not forget your outdoor faucet.
7. Open the toilet flush valve to clear water from toilet
8. I unhook the water lines feeding the in door water and ice. I also unhook the main line to the fridge and remove the filter.
9. I remove the faucet, shower and sprayer heads. Also remover main filter in the water fill compartment
10. I leave all faucets open
11. I disconnect my water pump lines. Mine are very accessible.
12. I add antifreeze to my traps and toilet bowl

Even if there is a very small amount of water in the lines this method give room for expansion. I have been following this recess for 10 years with no issues.

I do likewise only I allow the lines to pressure up between opening each valve. I do this for each valve in succession 3 rounds or until I don't feel any moisture being expelled.

 

[Rosy]

I do likewise only I allow the lines to pressure up between opening each valve. I do this for each valve in succession 3 rounds or until I don't feel any moisture being expelled.

I find it takes much more than 3 rounds. Blowing the water out is the most time consuming part of winterizing and our trailer only has 2 sinks, 2 showers (indoor and outdoor) and 1 toilet.