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How To Install a soft start in a Dometic roof top air conditioner

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Neal

Staff member
RVF Administrator
Joined
Jul 27, 2019
Messages
13,395
Location
Midlothian, VA
RV Year
2017
RV Make
Newmar
RV Model
Ventana 4037
RV Length
40' 10"
Chassis
Freightliner XCR
Engine
Cummins 400 HP
TOW/TOAD
2017 Chevy Colorado
Fulltimer
No
Do any Class As come equipped with EasyStart installed? Or SoftStart as some call it.
 
Neil,

I installed two on my last 5er. The instructions that come with it are pretty easy to follow. Also, look on YouTube, there are many video's with step by step instructions that show and do.
Easy peasy!! Takes a little longer for the first one but goes fast the second time!
I think the new Furrion's Chill Cube's come with them included. I know my new 5er does. Takes you by surprise the first time you turn it on. It s l o w l y winds up then compressor kicks in. I have three and can my 18K btu ynit on 110V with no strain.
 
I paid a tech referred by Micro-Air to install my first one, was not done well but it works. Second one I installed under the guidance of @Chuggs and it wasn't hard but I can't find those instructions to share. And yes, I recall YouTube having info as well, just trying to collate the good resources here for our peeps here to have when the time comes.
 
Yes...Microair had a first rate video. They included WAGO connectors, etc...to make the kit easy to install. I think it makes it even easier if you read schematics...just knowing color codes of wiring, helps you properly identify where it is you are making connections.
 
To chime in, I looked at these soft starts and as of today you can drop in a Furrion 18k chill cube which is basically a split unit in a box.The benefit over a soft start s the unit has a built in variable speed compressor and it works great for a top usage of about 1450 watts cranked up all the way.I replaced a brand new Coleman Mach Q and we are delighted with the upgrade.Worth looking at before spending 300 bucks for just a startup solution.
 
I agree, the Furrion Chill Cubes are the way to go, nothing else yet available comes close to the efficiency of these units.There are others online, but I chose Furrion because they have been making RV appliances for a long time.
 
To chime in, I looked at these soft starts and as of today you can drop in a Furrion 18k chill cube which is basically a split unit in a box.The benefit over a soft start s the unit has a built in variable speed compressor and it works great for a top usage of about 1450 watts cranked up all the way.I replaced a brand new Coleman Mach Q and we are delighted with the upgrade.Worth looking at before spending 300 bucks for just a startup solution.
So let me see if I am understanding this correctly.
So what I understand is that going out and spending $1000+ on a new Furrion verses spending ~$300 on a SoftStart for a new A/C unit is better?
I would agree with that if your unit has gone south on you but to do that just to get an A/C unit to start within your start up amp load, doesn't make economic sense. Unless a person has money that they can't find a way to spend it.
 
Furion Units won’t work on all RVs, and they still benefit from having a soft start.
 
So let me see if I am understanding this correctly.
So what I understand is that going out and spending $1000+ on a new Furrion verses spending ~$300 on a SoftStart for a new A/C unit is better?
I would agree with that if your unit has gone south on you but to do that just to get an A/C unit to start within your start up amp load, doesn't make economic sense. Unless a person has money that they can't find a way to spend it.
What I am saying is the 1000 investment will return itself in energy savings and efficiency, while the soft start will just help reduce the load when the unit starts up.Most people who are installing these soft starts are doing so to reduce the cost of a inverter or allow a 3000 watt inverter to be used to start the unit.I was just saying if your going to spend 300, consider spending additional money to have a air conditioner which is far superior to just a sof start, especially for those boon docking and relying on their own means of electric.I hope that helps all to understand correctly 😃I’m sorry Neil perhaps this post should be moved to a more appropriate thread, I was really just trying to share an alternative that proved to be money well spent especially with the last 4 days of triple digit temperatures and we stayed perfectly cooled in our RV with 2 roof top units and none with soft starts.
 
If Furrion made a rooftop unit that would be a drop-in for a Dometic Heat Pump...and CCC2 thermostat system which we already have...I'd try it. Our Domestic system has up invested in the fact there is an extra control board in our basement that connect to the AutoGenStart...so, the added benefit is pretty darned good --- esp if dry camping at races or air shows. We upgraded our thermostat (still CCC2 compatible) to the MicroAir EZ touch RV...and it connects to wifi. We can control our coaches thermostat from a smart phone app... which lets us turn the system OFF/ON, change basically anything on the thermostat that you could if you were standing in the coach. I use this to save on Genset use while we are out for the day...then reset the A/C thru the app --- generator will start, and cool down the coach before we get back. I'm hooked...can't give that up.

We also spend a lot of time in campgrounds...so honestly --- I don't get a discount for using a low amp A/C unit... although that would be a good thing when we store the coach at home. We keep the unit cool for humidity purposes...and it does bring our electric bill up substantially.
 
The DSDP has three a/c units. Not all three can be operated at the same time. Using only the Fridge and maybe a TV along with a Router using all three a/c exceeds a 50amp shore pedestal breaker.
On a hot day this is annoying to say the least.
Tested this multiple times, each time pedestal power fails and error codes start popping up.
 
Joe, I have had 2 DutchStar and a current London Aire all with 3 roof air.

All would allow me to use the 3 air and also use washer and dryer or kitchen equipment without issue.

You most likely have low voltage at the circuit (less than 120v) or a weak breaker.
 
Interesting! I'll revisit this again at Sparta and or Newmar again this fall. Try to sort out the over voltage draw. There is a Hughes Autoformer between the Shore Post and panel. Claims 120V+ at the receptacle?
 
Soft starts would help if not already installed to avoid load shedding. That's something else to look at, your load shed setup. Something may have priority over your A/C's. Try using burner on OASIS leaving AC I/II off and see if that makes a difference.
 
Interesting! I'll revisit this again at Sparta and or Newmar again this fall. Try to sort out the over voltage draw. There is a Hughes Autoformer between the Shore Post and panel. Claims 120V+ at the receptacle?
If you have the HAF, then it is possible that the campground itself has very low voltage, causing your HAF to do its thing, which will increase amp load. I have found this to be true at one spot, but never consistently. I use a lot of power, including the OASIS electric burners, washer, dryer, tvs, laptops, etc...never once have I had to worry about it and never once has the 3rd air shutdown due to the EMS.

I suspect that maybe your coach is not balanced on the panel, which is one thing you can check by watching loads on L1 and L2, and see if they appear balanced.

Another thing that is different, as @Neal mentioned, I have always had the microair easy starts on my units. This does eliminate the hard spike that could trip a breaker under high load.

Check your balance first, as that is easy.
 
Keep in mind too that @Joe Hogan's setup is different than yours. His is more like mine with LiFePO4's, dual victron inverters, etc. and the pass through may be a different config. I think SES does the lithium installs for Newmar and the load shedding design, I believe, is different from the prior Magnum world.
 
I see nothing wrong with this. Its almost like when I would post somewhere that I drove 900 miles in a day in my dp, people would say, "thats not safe, you should only drive 300 max"
Who determines 300 miles is some kind of a limit? Some of us have stamina and abilities that others do not. Just like this car, its 100x safer then the cars were in the 60's/70's as are all cars these days. I have had everything from a 32 Ford to a Z06 to a top fuel dragster, I have no fear of my abilities but always respect the vehicle.
We can all have an opinion but who are we to judge who owns what. I am more scared of a dp when the driver gets out and cannot stand up straight and can barely walk at 85, but is driving a 50,000 lb missile.
JMHO

If you have the HAF, then it is possible that the campground itself has very low voltage, causing your HAF to do its thing, which will increase amp load. I have found this to be true at one spot, but never consistently. I use a lot of power, including the OASIS electric burners, washer, dryer, tvs, laptops, etc...never once have I had to worry about it and never once has the 3rd air shutdown due to the EMS.

I suspect that maybe your coach is not balanced on the panel, which is one thing you can check by watching loads on L1 and L2, and see if they appear balanced.

Another thing that is different, as @Neal mentioned, I have always had the microair easy starts on my units. This does eliminate the hard spike that could trip a breaker under high load.

Check your balance first, as that is easy.
Do you use the Bluetooth addon? If so, what does that provide?
 
Keep in mind too that @Joe Hogan's setup is different than yours. His is more like mine with LiFePO4's, dual victron inverters, etc. and the pass through may be a different config. I think SES does the lithium installs for Newmar and the load shedding design, I believe, is different from the prior Magnum world.
How does that affect anyting when using shore power? It shouldn't---and if anything, it will be a better position to give inverter assist.

Lithium and inverters are usually not used during shore power connection.
 

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