Question Is there a specific type of grease gun needed for Dexter EZ Lube axles?

[kkaos]

Hi. I have a 2020 Gulfstream Vintage Cruiser, which I have owned and used for about 3 years now. I have never greased the axle/bearings/wheels and am trying to do so now. I have watched a couple videos on YouTube about how to use the Dexter EZ Lube system for removing the old grease and inserting the new grease.
I bought a Lumax LX-1153 grease gun from Auto Zone. Unfortunately, if I try to push the end of the grease gun connector onto the "zerk" (?) on the wheel, it feels like it goes on, but if I let off pressure with my hand, I can feel the connector get pushed off.
Is there a grease gun with a specific size connection that I should be using? If not, what might I be doing wrong? Thank you.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Push harder!!!
I repack bearings. Having a little extra grease won't hurt, but filling the hub up with grease only serves to add friction...

 

[sanda]

You should be able to adjust the nozzle end to fit tighter on the zerk.

 

[kkaos]

The coupler that comes with the grease gun will not push further on so it's not a matter of pushing harder unfortunately.

Twisting the coupler end onto the fitting also makes no difference.

I went to Auto Zone earlier and got a smaller coupler that does screw onto the Lumax gun. It connects onto the fitting of the wheel and does not pop off, but it moves around while connected. Not sure if that is right. Also, the new grease appears to be coming out in between the two pieces of the coupler, and those pieces cannot be screwed in anymore against each other.

Is this a problem?

 

[TheLooks]

I think you need to tighten up the fitting maybe. The end of the gun fitting turns and allows the end to go on over the zerk, then rotating it will tighten it on the zerk. However, grease guns produce so much pressure they can crack things when the pressure does not go where it is supposed to. The correct way to use an ez lube system is jack up the tire and rotate it while applying grease. It helps that the temps be warm as it would appear that you are building pressure. Old grease can harden and be difficult to move. I bet yours is.

 

[Rich W.]

Also the tiny spring-loaded ball in your zerk could be stuck with old, dried grease, and not permitting the new grease to flow past it. Use an awl or something silimar to push on the ball and free it up, and if that doesnt work (the zerk being full of solidified, old, dry grease) remove the zerk and clean it out or replace it. Then all will be fine in bearing-buddy land and grease will flow freely. However as Kevin pointed out, it may be best to re-pack the wheel bearings by hand at this point if it has not been done in a few years (your ownership plus the previous owner’s use).

 

[kkaos]

I did read somewhere that the zerk could be stopped up, and I bet that is the case since I haven't ever changed the grease. I'll repack the bearings by hand at this point. Maybe I'll try the EZ Lube system again next year, but if repacking isn't really difficult, I might just keep doing that.

Thank yall for the advice.

 

[team bradfield]

manually pack your bearings, those ez lubes are a joke, they tend to blow out the back seal and grease your brakes, plus you need to inspect the bearings and seals.

 

[Bob K4TAX]

I agree with team bradfield. Although this was not on our previous trailer, it seems someone overpacked the Ez-Lube system. See below.

I always pull wheels and pack bearings by hand. That way I can inspect the races and seals and replace them if necessary.

.

 

[Rich W.]

I agree with team bradfield. Although this was not on our previous trailer, it seems someone overpacked the Ez-Lube system. See below.

I always pull wheels and pack bearings by hand. That way I can inspect the races and seals and replace them if necessary.

. View attachment 17920

That’s one for the record books!

 

[osuallen]

I agree with team bradfield. Although this was not on our previous trailer, it seems someone overpacked the Ez-Lube system. See below.

I always pull wheels and pack bearings by hand. That way I can inspect the races and seals and replace them if necessary.

. View attachment 17920

When they had to refill the grease gun the first time, that should have been a clue.

 

[TheLooks]

I saw that picture at school when they were promoting hand packing. No could explain how it could happen other then defective seals or something plugged on the outlet side. Plugging would make a seal defective of course. If I don't have grease coming out when I pump it in, I go looking. As I said, warm and spinning wheel.

 

[kkaos]

Took off the wheel and outer bearing, easily enough. Looking at the inside of the drum/hub (?). I am trying to remove the seal so that I can get to the inside bearing. Got one of these pullers that is supposed to make this job easier, but that hasn't been the case:

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/seal-puller/p/oemtools-seal-puller/48199_0_0

From what videos I have found on YouTube, at least part of the seal is metal, not just rubber. The puller only seems to be getting a hold of the rubber part, and I don't want to pull hard on that because I am fairly certain that is not all of the seal and that will cause damage, which would make this very difficult to change my mind and take it to someone who works on campers and trailers.

In the picture below, is the seal what is circled in red? Or is it only what is circled in yellow? The yellow is what I am pretty sure is only part of the seal, the rubber part.

Speaking of taking it to someone, there is no one nearby. The nearest Camping World is almost 2 hours away. There's a "family-owned" operation about a half hour away, but when I asked them about performing the work, they said they would likely charge me $800...for the two wheels. From what I've read and watched, I KNOW that's way above the average price for this service. Ugh.

 

[team bradfield]

I have the same tool, I put one hook under the seal, then use it like a hammer pulling a nail, If you bought new seals, just flip the hub over and knock them out with a piece of soft wood (metal will scar the race) and a rubber mallet.

 

[Rich W.]

Took off the wheel and outer bearing, easily enough. Looking at the inside of the drum/hub (?). I am trying to remove the seal so that I can get to the inside bearing. Got one of these pullers that is supposed to make this job easier, but that hasn't been the case:

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/seal-puller/p/oemtools-seal-puller/48199_0_0

From what videos I have found on YouTube, at least part of the seal is metal, not just rubber. The puller only seems to be getting a hold of the rubber part, and I don't want to pull hard on that because I am fairly certain that is not all of the seal and that will cause damage, which would make this very difficult to change my mind and take it to someone who works on campers and trailers.

In the picture below, is the seal what is circled in red? Or is it only what is circled in yellow? The yellow is what I am pretty sure is only part of the seal, the rubber part.

Speaking of taking it to someone, there is no one nearby. The nearest Camping World is almost 2 hours away. There's a "family-owned" operation about a half hour away, but when I asked them about performing the work, they said they would likely charge me $800...for the two wheels. From what I've read and watched, I KNOW that's way above the average price for this service. Ugh.

View attachment 17936

Yes everything in the red circle is the seal. As stated above, tap it out from the other side with a wood dowel (or a small wood hammer handle) using the inner bearing to push out the seal. Work both sides to push it out evenly. Its probably tight from sitting so long.

Take the seal with you (or just measure it) to a local auto parts store for replacement. You don’t re-use seals so you don’t have to worry about damaging the old ones. There are only a couple different sizes for trailer axles so that should be easy.

And yes your $800 quote is just crazy - they obviously don’t want the work so they bid it high enough to send you elsewhere. You don’t need to take it to anyone though. You’ll get through it and then you’ll have another skill. We all had our first bearing job at some point. Also those seal pullers are a pain and usually just bend if the seal is stuck. I don’t use them.