Leveling Blocks

[FL-JOE]

I suppose where you camp would have an effect on the type and number of blocks needed. No matter what RV a person has it probably has to be fairly level for the slides to operate as intended.

We won't use a site (paid site or dry camping site) if it isn't close to level, therefore we only carry enough 2x12 wood blocks to go under jacks if we need them. As far as wheel chocks, they are not needed in a motorized RV. For TTs and fivers you can use the plastic ones or cut 4x4 pieces of wood. We do prefer the hard plastic wheel chocks.

 

[Bob K4TAX]

I use some 2 x 8 cut to the length and with a 45-degree bevel cut on each end. I have 3 lengths so I can stack them as needed. Each one is shorter than the other so the bevels align making it easier to ramp up. I start with the long one, then the next shorter one, and then the shortest one, if and as needed. The shortest one allows for both wheels to be on the leveling board. They are made from pressure-treated material and painted dark moss green. As to chocks, I cut 2 pieces of 4 x 6 with a 45 on each end. The lengths are such they slide between the two wheels on each side of the trailer. That way I only need 2 chock blocks, one for each side as the wheels are always chocked, left and right, fore and aft from the center.

I've also learned to "read" the left/right level on the front of the trailer. One mark means one block needed, two marks means 2 blocks needed, and three marks mean 3 blocks. needed. More than that and means it is out of level 4.5" in 8 ft. I have ways of dealing with that but I prefer to use a better / more level site.