Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Friendliest RV Community on the web
  • Modern site for PC's, Phones, Tablets - no 3rd party apps required
  • Ask questions, help others, review campgrounds
  • Get the most out of the RV Lifestyle
  • Invite everyone to RVForums.com and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome

Looking to buy—tips, opinions

Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Modern secure site, no 3rd party apps required
  • Invite your friends and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome
  • Friendliest RV community on the web

modrob

RVF Regular
Joined
Apr 17, 2023
Messages
47
New member here. Several years back, I owned two older 80s Class A units. Now, I’m wanting another unit for some short and maybe longer intermittent outings…
I’m partial to Class A, but I do like the Cs as well.
Ideally I’d like to have a diesel pusher, for the quietness for sure, but mainly I feel the diesel engine is more robust. I also don’t like the heat produced by the gas engines up in front—I’ve seen and repaired the manifolds on the 454s that have warped from the heat, and have seen them running so hot they glow cherry red.
I’m sure the costs are more in maintaining the diesel…
I may be asking too much, but can units in the model years around late 90s thru early 2000s be found that still have some good life left, and affordable? Opinions welcomed. Thanks.
 
Welcome to the group. I’m no mechanic but to your question. I think yes you can find 20 year old units in good shape mechanically. My concern would be the structure and appliances. Roof being a big concern. Good lock in your search. Try RV Trader.com to get ideas and prices.
 
The newer the RV, the more efficient the engines are. I can see a hot manifold on a carved 454, but a newer fuel injected engine is going to have sensors and computers to alleviate a condition that would make an exhaust glow.
My V10 runs cool, there is no heat coming off the doghouse at all. Newer engines will get better mileage, too.
 
I personally prefer pre-computer engines and other components. No Deisel exhaust fluid needed. No catylitic converters either. Look at Wanderlodge, Beaver, and Barth. Look for good bones and the rest is mostly the same. There are other companies that do not produce coaches any more. If you are handy your rig will be serviced by you. We are all smarter with online videos and forums like this.
 
Last edited:
IMHO if you are handy with maintenance, a pre emission diesel would be my recommendation. Apparently the MFG are still struggling with the mandatory emissions system. DEF system is a PIA.
 
I’m still in the hunt—daily looking. But I’m thinking it’s not the best time now, with the touring season already here, and in my area it seems like nearly all are sold within days of posting. Good for them, bad for me LOL.
I’m still torn on several things though, and I’m weighing them daily also…Diesel or gas: I’d rather have diesel for the robustness of it (I feel) but that usually means a bigger coach, and that means trouble for parking at home—we have a steep driveway and at the top every area is still on a slope. And not enough room to turn around or maneuver. (However I’ve purchased a small bulldozer so trees and leveling might be doable LOL)
Class A or C: the C we would choose would likely be smaller so maneuverability wouldn’t be an issue. Getting to the engine area for repairs that I am capable of are painful—but an A model I’m sure has similar issues in being able to get to things.
And of course, trying to find one that’s not due to have a major breakdown in motor or tranny—too many miles or not enough, too many years not enough miles, etc.
I’m thinking I prefer the Ford engine for some probably minuscule reasons…
Hmmmm…so much to think about…
 
Go with the engines beginning with "C" as in Caterpillar and Cummins.
 
New member, I am looking for a gas class A RV 30ft to 40ft . My question is , what RV should I avoid and or what make or model is more reliable . Any and all help or advice is appreciated
 
New member here. Several years back, I owned two older 80s Class A units. Now, I’m wanting another unit for some short and maybe longer intermittent outings…
I’m partial to Class A, but I do like the Cs as well.
Ideally I’d like to have a diesel pusher, for the quietness for sure, but mainly I feel the diesel engine is more robust. I also don’t like the heat produced by the gas engines up in front—I’ve seen and repaired the manifolds on the 454s that have warped from the heat, and have seen them running so hot they glow cherry red.
I’m sure the costs are more in maintaining the diesel…
I may be asking too much, but can units in the model years around late 90s thru early 2000s be found that still have some good life left, and affordable? Opinions welcomed. Thanks.
Yes you can find them. Diesel much more reliable and fewer repairs needed and the noise and the heat is in the back not up in the driver area. Purchased our 2007 Coachman Encore 40TS 5 years ago for $68K with 47,000 miles on it.

First Photo is us camping on BLM land in Custer South Dakota an the other us camping at a Harvest Host Vermillion Living History Museum and Folklore Park Lafayette LA.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0083.JPG
    IMG_0083.JPG
    4.1 MB · Views: 11
  • IMG_7180.JPG
    IMG_7180.JPG
    4.3 MB · Views: 10
I haven't spent much time looking at newer coaches, I quit finding them entertaining when they became dominated by DP (that are way to big), and Ford chassis.

That aside modern gas are fairly reliable even if they are Ford. If you spend time on here listening to modern coach owners here(minority I'm sure), there is nothing less troublesome than a new coach!!! Maybe the expectation of quality for the buck is has something to do with it, or maybe they are just to complex.

Are you sure a trailer would not meet your needs better? Seems issues are easy fixes for the most part. I have a hard time seeing the difference in the owners work pulling the truck, vs. Pulling the house!!!

Likely just me!!!
 
New member, I am looking for a gas class A RV 30ft to 40ft . My question is , what RV should I avoid and or what make or model is more reliable . Any and all help or advice is appreciated
I have a 2017 FR Georgetown GT5 31R5
34 ft long, V10 with 1900 miles on it when we bought it in 2021.
We have performed normal maintenance only, switched out some furniture, and did have a problem with the reefer that was fixed with a new thermistor. (I replaced the thermistor, but apparently bought a bad one...)
We love our rig and plan to keep it for a long time.
 
I haven't spent much time looking at newer coaches, I quit finding them entertaining when they became dominated by DP (that are way to big), and Ford chassis.

That aside modern gas are fairly reliable even if they are Ford. If you spend time on here listening to modern coach owners here(minority I'm sure), there is nothing less troublesome than a new coach!!! Maybe the expectation of quality for the buck is has something to do with it, or maybe they are just to complex.

Are you sure a trailer would not meet your needs better? Seems issues are easy fixes for the most part. I have a hard time seeing the difference in the owners work pulling the truck, vs. Pulling the house!!!

Likely just me!!!
Well...I have to buy the truck to pull first....lol
 
Well...I have to buy the truck to pull first....lol
😊
Yes you do! You also need to buy the equipment to do that safely. That in itself is costly, and as recent posts present, it is not a one and done thing. All equipment needs to be inspected, but!!!

Many will tell you how easy pull out is! This is my experience.

Gasser MH Start MH. retract leveling jacks. Close all cabinets and make sure all is latched. Walk around, verify everything is closed up and locked, and nothing got left behind. This is something that makes sure your site is better than when you got there!
Total time about 15 minutes. Get rig on a fairly straight path and inspect and connect tow'd(a few more minutes).

Trailer! Put away and latch everything in place, much the same with MH! Raise stabilizer jacks on back of Trailer(I use a battery screw impact driver for this). Raise front of Trailer for hitch hight. Back truck to Trailer. Although this can be a learning curve, I have marks painted on the front of my Trailer that I can observe with mirrors, guaranteeing an easy alignment. . Lower the landing gear and slide the pin into the hitch, lock in place and bring the landing gear all the way up. Put all blocks and chocks in bed of truck. Do a walk around/cleanup. Pull out and make sure nothing is left behind. About 20 minutes. With no tow'd hookups much the same timing.

Without automatic stairs I must bring in the stairs manually! But the MH I had if you started the engine the stairs would retract. If the switch was turned off so stairs would no exercise themselves with every door opening, they would then not open. This only hurts, but if you have weak bones it can be the end of you!!!
I will not tell you how poorly I learn my lessons.

So if you can't afford a tow'd setup, every trip to town, you will have to go through this process, places you may want to visit you may be excluded from due to parking issues. With a trailer you will be setup until you move on. If you don't go big, you can get less than a dually. On occasion finding a parking spot for an 8ft wide truck can also be a challenge.

Although everyone seems to think big is better, the truth is sometimes accommodating big can hurt more than the hype is worth.

Of the 7 RVs I have owned the smallest was the most carefree. Just saying!!!
 

Latest resources

Back
Top