Resolved No chassis battery power

[Webz]

Pulled into a campground. Went to deploy the FW slide. It moved to the point it rotates and stopped.
Then I noticed I had no power at all. The ignition switch does nothing. No dash lights or ability to start. Contacted AZPete of HWH. He suggested the chassis batteries didn't have enough capacity. I agreed since they are 2016 batteries. Bought two new batteries and installed them.
No change. I believe I have a blown fuse somewhere. Any ideas where I should look. I've got 12 volts past the battery disconnect but don't know where I should go from here.
Thanks for any help.

 

[Neal]

Check bay under driver's seat, front driver's side is all the chassis fuse work.

 

[Rich W.]

Start here (pic). If you have power beyond the disconnect switch at the batteries, you should have it here. Then pull the covers off the boxes and look at the lists for likely major fuses or 12v breakers. Since you had power and then all stopped, as Neal said, thats most likely where you’ll find the problem. Also even if your chassis batteries were still working it was time to change them so I wouldnt consider that wasted $$/effort. I just changed mine even though I had no trouble with them. They were 2015 batteries in a 2016 coach and it was time.

 

[Webz]

Thanks Neal and Rich W. I'm looking.

 

[Webz]

I have new batteries as of last night.
Checked the small standard fuses. Pulled out the larger rectangular items. Are these a type of fuse also. If so how do I check them? They have 5 pins.

 

[Neal]

I believe they are self resetting. Have you verified voltage is getting to that box? Did you take a picture of the wiring of the batteries to ensure the new ones are wired exactly the same AND the master cutoff is ON?

Paging Dr. @Chuggs

 

[Webz]

Got 12 volts up front where Rich W suggested I check to start. Took pics first of the fuses. Got a meter and removing fuses one at a time. So far no bad ones.

 

[Neal]

Have you tried killing all power chassis and house for one minute (shore power and gen off) then power back up and see what happens?

 

[Webz]

Yep. Did that first thing after replacing the batteries last night. Can't seem to find a blown fuse. I'll keep looking.

 

[Webz]

All is good now. I called Newmar and talked to Mike. Explained how I lost power while deploying the FWS.
He immediately said one of the two 150 Amp fuses in the chassis battery bay is blown. Removed the cover in the bay and sure enough one was blown.
I did have power up front in the bay under the driver's seat but only on one set of the heavy cables. I should have asked Rich for a little more info. My bad.
The 150 amp fuses are located in the top right corner.
Tried to upload two pics but doesn't look like it happened.

 

[Rich W.]

good info - thanks for the update.

 

[jagpot]

All is good now. I called Newmar and talked to Mike. Explained how I lost power while deploying the FWS.
He immediately said one of the two 150 Amp fuses in the chassis battery bay is blown. Removed the cover in the bay and sure enough one was blown.
I did have power up front in the bay under the driver's seat but only on one set of the heavy cables. I should have asked Rich for a little more info. My bad.
The 150 amp fuses are located in the top right corner.
Tried to upload two pics but doesn't look like it happened.

Mike is really really good!

 

[Rich W.]

All is good now. I called Newmar and talked to Mike. Explained how I lost power while deploying the FWS.
He immediately said one of the two 150 Amp fuses in the chassis battery bay is blown. Removed the cover in the bay and sure enough one was blown.
I did have power up front in the bay under the driver's seat but only on one set of the heavy cables. I should have asked Rich for a little more info. My bad.
The 150 amp fuses are located in the top right corner.
Tried to upload two pics but doesn't look like it happened.

Probably looks something like this:

Each one supplies one of those posts in my previous pic. Good info Webz - thanks for the update!
Did you find a replacement fuse easily at your local parts store? Or car audio maybe?
Also did Mike at Newmar give any indication as to why the fuse was blown?

 

[marc2912]

Probably look something like this:

Each one supplies one of those posts in my previous pic. Good info Webz - thanks for the update! Did you find a replacement fuse easily at your local parts store? I think I’ll buy a couple and put them in my kit.

Thanks for sharing pic. I'll look at mine and see if it has the same setup, good call on getting spares for something like this. Doesn't look like everywhere would have those. Plus those things tend to go on a Friday night at 9pm...

 

[Webz]

Thanks for sharing pic. I'll look at mine and see if it has the same setup, good call on getting spares for something like this. Doesn't look like everywhere would have those. Plus those things tend to go on a Friday night at 9pm...

Tried O'Reilly, Auto Zone, NAPA with no luck. Freightliner in OKC had 7. They now have 5.
That is like the pic I tried to upload unsuccessfully. Thanks Rich W.
My thinking as to why the fuse blew is my fault. I should have replaced the chassis batteries sooner since the hydraulic pump runs off of them instead of the house batteries.
Just got out of Cummins shop for engine issues. The coach was plugged in but the chassis batteries were disconnected for a month, so the charge was low. Drove less than 20 miles before setting up camp. When voltage drops, the amps increase. That is what blew the fuse. My chassis batteries were 7 years old.
Thanks to all.

 

[Chuggs]

Late to this party…

O believe the 2016 DS was the first year to have “More Floor”. So, you have HWH hydraulic operated slides…and regrettably, I am not versed in power sources.

Your black bag should have a handout which details the location and designation for all the dc breakers and fuses. This can help identify where your protection would be.

if the controller is amperage triggered, like our electric slide controllers…the motors are shut off when they detect a rise in amp draw…which happens when a motor hits it’s travel limit. If your source voltage is low, from weak batteries, the motors naturally draw more amperage…as the motor consumes watts to do work. This may trick your controller into shutting down early.

The controller monitors your ignition..and if you have it turned in..this defeats the slideouts. As you do NOT want the slides to inadvertently deploy while driving down the highway. Check ignition off.

I would imaging the motors are wired to the house system though.

Your chassis batteries if wired like mine…are direct wired to the engine components. Direct wired to the bi-directional relay (BIM)…but switch wired to the front dash. Look for a big cable going to a disconnect switch…then going to a panel housing two 150A fuses…or circuit breakers on a Sparta. From there the two fuse protected cables go to the compartment under the drivers seat. You will see rather large terminals inside that compartment…which is a great place to use a dc voltage meter to read if you are getting power from the chassis batteries. If the fuse panels have power up there…I believe most of them have little red led lights next to the fuses, which light when a fuse is blown.

The handout is your friend…

Panels will sometimes have stickers with the fuse designations… Chassis fuses are generally in the chassis battery compartment, and in the compartment under the drivers seat…however there are inline fuses added to many of the components, which are scattered around here and there.

House fuses begin in the house battery compartment with the large catastrophic fuses for the positive leads going to the inverter and the house. So you will notice House, Inverter, and bi-directional relay positives coming off the bank. The house is tricky…it goes back to th wall behind the cord reel…hidden behind a velcroed on plastic panel. It is attached to the house disconnect relay controlled by the salesmans switch. You will notice it looks like an octopus…as the side that is directly connected to the battery will be constant battery powered, and is distributed to a fuse panel and certain self resetting thermal dc breakers. The other side of the relay powers disconnect battery powered fuse block and some self resetting thermal dc fuses. These are the circuits that the salesman switch actually disconnect when in the store position. On the fuse block connected to the disconnect side of the relay…two big fuses run power into the half bath to power the dc distribution panel inside the half bath. You will likely notice a sticker inside the half bath which details hat the fuses go to…and likewise, the plastic panel behind the cord reel, if they built it properly, will have a sticker on the back of it detailing what fuses go to what. These are helpful to any technician performing work…and aid the owner too…if they can’t find the handout inside the black bag.

 

[Rich W.]

Tried O'Reilly, Auto Zone, NAPA with no luck. Freightliner in OKC had 7. They now have 5.
That is like the pic I tried to upload unsuccessfully. Thanks Rich W.
My thinking as to why the fuse blew is my fault. I should have replaced the chassis batteries sooner since the hydraulic pump runs off of them instead of the house batteries.
Just got out of Cummins shop for engine issues. The coach was plugged in but the chassis batteries were disconnected for a month, so the charge was low. Drove less than 20 miles before setting up camp. When voltage drops, the amps increase. That is what blew the fuse. My chassis batteries were 7 years old.
Thanks to all.

Given that info I just ordered two of these from Amazon. I prefer to shop locally but don’t like running all over town form something like this either. Hope they fit.

 

[Webz]

That looks like the correct one.