Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Friendliest RV Community on the web
  • Modern site for PC's, Phones, Tablets - no 3rd party apps required
  • Ask questions, help others, review campgrounds
  • Get the most out of the RV Lifestyle
  • Invite everyone to RVForums.com and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome

RV Refrigerators

Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Modern secure site, no 3rd party apps required
  • Invite your friends and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome
  • Friendliest RV community on the web
Ran mine from Friday night to just an hour ago, freezer frozen solid. It was 96 today and it worked great. They have to be installed well and maintained well.
How often do folks get that result and know about it!!!
 
Well, knowing what well installed and maintained is, is not in the book that comes with the camper.
As to the stove working on the oem regulator, I would think that would indicate the regulator was the defective part on the new stove. Many times we find the main regulator has failed and is the problem. Hardly anyone is informed about how to do a load test or a drop test. So far as I know, only the stove has another regulator, the fridge and water heater just have gas valves. On or off. But these can fail also.
Back to the original problem, I would probably have the answer in one of my books but will hazard the guess that there is less oxygen up high. That means either less propane or more air in the settings. More propane means a larger orifice, same pressure. Or more pressure and same orifice. There is an air adjustment on older appliances, but they have been removed from modern ones. The burner in fridges looks like a little burner tube from a gas grill. They are not like the blow torches that heat the water.
 
As to the stove working on the oem regulator, I would think that would indicate the regulator was the defective part on the new stove. Many times we find the main regulator has failed and is the problem.
No doubt but try getting a call taker at Dometic to understand that, much less take responsibility. Their warranty is meaningless. I was carrying the old regulator with me as I was certain that was the problem and just did the swap at my leisure in a park in Pahrump Nv. Been perfect ever since.
 
They talk to me as a Certified Tech. But I understand your frustration with them. We no longer do warranty work because of the insanity of dealing with their logistics. But in their defense, they ship out parts for nothing that get installed just as badly or incorrectly and the problem does not go away. Not the case with your problem, but the problem may have been the main regulator and they can force me to check it.
Or could have previously.
 
They talk to me as a Certified Tech. But I understand your frustration with them. We no longer do warranty work because of the insanity of dealing with their logistics. But in their defense, they ship out parts for nothing that get installed just as badly or incorrectly and the problem does not go away. Not the case with your problem, but the problem may have been the main regulator and they can force me to check it.
Or could have previously.
To be fair! Warranty is covered by an insurance company. You all know how much you trust them!!! They, the insurance company sets the rules a company must follow. The company pays a premium for that insurance. They don't have to refuse service, but may open themselves to a liability claim the insurance won't cover.

The insurance company only claims to have the company's back, but when we see the reputation fall due to insurance policies, we know they do not!!!

My two cents or .002 in today's value!!!
 
Maybe too late.... but.....consider replacing just the cooling unit. Even if you have to pay a reliable tech to do the labor, the cost is about half the price of a new RV fridge. I just did my Norcold 1210 after it failed and coudn't be happier with the end result. The quality, functionality and reliability of the replacement from JC Refrigeration Home - JC Refrigeration is light years ahead of Norcold!
 
We had an issue with our Dometic fridge. I looked into repairing and the cost of the parts was $1500. I did some research and found I could change out our12 cubic foot RV fridge for a Kenmore Elite 23.5 cubic foot resi fridge. This took minimal modifications. We do boondock and to date have not had any issues in three years on the road. Our total draw when running the big fridge, small 1.7 cubic foot resi fridge in the basement, our interior lights and tv is 1-2 amps. I have installed a separate battery monitor that monitors: (2) AGM coach batteries and (4AGM) 240 amp hour house batteries. I do have an onboard energy system that also monitors battery status and the two agree. The additional one allows quick view of both battery systems. This is dash mounted and at the recommendation of others using this device I added a separate on/off switch as the green LED are quite bright at night.

We usually have to run our generator for a couple hours during the day to bring batteries up to full level. Run time on batteries is about 14-17 hours. Solar to be added in the near future to eliminate or reduce the use of generator.
 

Attachments

  • Fridge 2 trimmed out.jpg
    Fridge 2 trimmed out.jpg
    72.5 KB · Views: 5
  • IMG_1556.JPG
    IMG_1556.JPG
    1.7 MB · Views: 5
  • 81S2I+KhmqL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
    81S2I+KhmqL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
    390.6 KB · Views: 3
  • IMG_0330.JPG
    IMG_0330.JPG
    24.2 KB · Views: 5
Last edited:

Latest posts

Latest resources

Back
Top