Super Newbs starting to shop for an RV

[RKO]

This is brand new to us. We both retired in our mid 50s, and are planning to start shopping for a class A or C. The wife envisions an RV that we can drive across the country, and not tow a car behind it. I am fairly sure that even if we got a smaller class C, we would eventually realize we have to tow a small car. That’s no big deal, I cannot imagine that I would not be the driver 100% of the time.
What’s your advice as we begin to shop? I’ve owned older cruising sailboats for years and am a firm believer that in terms of safety, comfort and fun, one should buy as big a vehicle as they are comfortable with.
I would appreciate any and all advice.thanks!!

 

[MapNerd]

If you want as big a vehicle as you’ll be comfortable with, you likely want a 43-45’ tag axle Class A. In terms of size, that’s about as big as they come - though I have seen even larger 5th wheels. One thing I caution however is that if your belief that bigger is better is based in the notion that mass = safety, that is not necessarily true with RVs. Almost all of your safety in an RV comes from maintenance, gear checks and inspections, due diligence and responsible driving - no matter the type of RV you have. Larger sizes tend to get you more creature comforts (dishwasher, washer & dryer, king size bed, bath and a half, etc.) The larger in size you however, the closer to the beaten path you must stay.

Another consideration is whether you and your wife might at any point be bringing along guests such as adult children or small grandchildren for trips. If so, they’ll need a place to rest their heads so consider models that might have an overhead bunk, jackknife sofa, hide-a-bed sleeper sofa, convertible dinette bed or even bunks, depending on your needs.

You need a tow vehicle. Your wife will probably come to that conclusion the first time she realizes that you need to completely tear down camp and pack up anytime you want to drive anywhere from your campsite. Need groceries? Pack it up. Want to visit that nearby overlook but it’s 20 miles away? Pack it up. What if the route to that overlook can’t handle a 40’ motorhome? Guess you’re not going there unless you call an Uber or Taxi, assuming service is available wherever you are - but you could have just gone if you were towing a normal vehicle. It’s really not complicated to do, don’t be intimidated by it.

We have a 44’ diesel pusher and my wife drives all the time. These more modern monsters are surprisingly easy to control and most of your driving is down a highway or interstate. There is the occasional tricky maneuver into a fuel stop or campground, but as with any vehicle you learn how it maneuvers with experience. My wife still can’t park it, but she can’t parallel park the truck either. We’re working on it!

My advice as you begin shopping is:
1. Decide on features and floorplans based on your needs and wants. Sit down and each of you make a top 10 list of features and compare. The features you agree on are must-haves. Where you differ are compromises.

2. Based on the results of number 1, decide on a manufacturer and floor plan. In the class A space, I’m partial to Newmar, Tiffin and Entegra. If money is no object then I’d go with a Newell, Marathon or Foretravel.

3. If you are buying used, get it inspected by an NRVIA certified inspector. YOU should hire them and and pay them, not the dealer. You want the inspector beholden to your interests, not the dealer’s. Don’t use an inspector recommended by a dealer. They likely do a lot of business with them and might ignore some things in order to stay in good standing with the dealer. You find em. You hire em. Use the results of that report to inform your negotiations. If the report says no problems, they need to inspect it again. Every RV has problems - even brand new ones.

4. Know what you are getting into. RVs are expensive, depreciating assets that are in constant need of repair and maintenance - just like a boat but not quite as expensive. Buying new or used in this market means that you will absolutely never make any money off of your unit. You are purchasing an experience. That is the only sane way to look at it. It’s expensive to buy. Its expensive to sell. It’s expensive to operate. It’s expensive to not operate. The experiences are priceless.

5. Be willing to compromise. You will not get an RV with every single feature you want. Many can be added after market. Get the RV you can comfortably live with and be willing to turn a wrench or two to make it how you want it. The things you can’t easily change or add are the things that must be there on day zero (floorpan, engine, generator, etc). The things you can change or add later are compromises (reverse osmosis system, satellite TV, internet modem, electric gate valves, stainless steel trim etc).

6. This market is hawt, for both new and used. Be ready and willing to move quickly to secure the unit you want once you’ve found it.

7. Know that the first year is full of repairs and tweaks. We call it the shakedown period. Things are going to break and need adjusting. Most of it should be covered under warranty. The hard part is finding all the flaws before your warranty lapses. Use it as much as possible in the first year so that you can find and report all if the issues while your warranty is active. They might not be fixed in the first year but if you report them while the warranty is active, they should be covered under the warranty.

8. Shop around. Make dealers compete for your business. Yes, even in this market. NIRVC is a great dealer in my experience that beat everyone and I heavily shopped my purchase.

9. Use it. Don’t let it sit. RVing is an amazing experience, filled with endless freedom and incredible experiences that most never have the opportunity to partake in. You are very lucky to be able to do it. So take every advantage.

10. There are going to be bad days. Days you really question whether or not you made the right decision or just wasted a boatload RV load of money. There will be good days. Days when you can’t imagine being without an RV ever again. RVing is as much about the journey as it is the destination. Have fun with it and don’t take life too seriously. You’re never getting out alive.

 

[bpaikman]

Big , and no toad?- hmmmm, do you want to unhook everything, pullup jacks, remove chocks, pull in slides, awnings, pick up everything, to run to the store for milk? or some repair part? Or go sightsee?
And, can you even fit the big rig in whatever place you go to pick up that repair part?
And, so your stuff wouldn't get stolen, you picked up everything and now your spot looked unoccupied, and now, maybe it is occupied when you return, by a confused resident who won't want to move? Just throwing out thoughts.
I can't imagine no toad - it's also extremely helpful in emergencies- you might need a quick trip to a medical facility.
I kinda don't think you can easily do it without a tow vehicle if it's over 25 feet.
I went to a large local dealer and walked through several sizes models - for us (we're tall) it seemed that we felt comfortable at 34-35 feet, and although I admire the luxury of bigger ones, at this time we didn't want the added expense of storing, insuring, purchasing, and equipping a larger one. I don't think we would feel comfortable in smaller ones, though.
I also noticed that the cooktop, sink, and fridge took on a more 'weekend camper' look in models smaller than 33 feet or so. We cook a lot and I just didn't like the kitchens. Or the weird corner beds.
That said, I could change. My mom cooked for a family of 6 on a coleman 2-burner stove when we camped out.
Our first mh was longer, and I prefer the shorter one we have now. But many people say the 40+ footers have more stable ride. I wouldn't know but we feel comfortable in our 35-er.
I also notice that Tiffin owners add a couple devices (one is 'Saf-T Steer) - I dunno why.

 

[RKO]

If you want as big a vehicle as you’ll be comfortable with, you likely want a 43-45’ tag axle Class A. In terms of size, that’s about as. If as they come - though I have seen even larger 5th wheels. One thing I caution however if that if you belief that bigger is better is based in the notion that mass = safety, that is not necessarily true with RVs. Almost all of your safety in an RV comes from due diligence and responsible driving, no matter the type of RV you have. Larger sizes tend to get you more creature comforts (dishwasher, washer & dryer, king size bed, bath and a half, etc. The larger in size you however, the closer to the beaten path you must stay.

Another consideration is whether you and your wife might any any point be bringing along guests such as adult children or small grandchildren for trips. If so, they’ll need a place to rest their heads so consider models that might have an overhead bunk, jackknife sofa, hide-a-bed sleeper sofa, convertible dinette bed or even bunks, depending on your needs.

You need a tow vehicle. Your wife will probably come to that conclusion the first time she realizes that you need to completely tear down camp and pack up anytime you want to drive anywhere from your campsite. Need groceries? Pack it up. Want to visit that near overlook but it’s 20 miles away? Pack it up. What if the route to that overlook can’t handle a 40’ motorhome? Guess you’re not going there - but you could have if you were towing a normal vehicle. It’s really not complicated to do, don’t be intimidated by it.

We have a 44’ diesel pusher and my wife drives all the time. These more modern monsters are surprisingly easy to control and most of your driving is down a highway or interstate. There is the occasional tricky maneuver into a fuel stop or campground, but as with any vehicle you learn how it maneuvers with experiences my wife still can’t park it, but she can’t parallel park the truck either. We’re working on it!

My advice as you begin shopping is:
1. Decide on features and floorplans based on your needs and wants. Sit down and each of you make a top 10 list of features and compare. The features you agree on are must-haves. Where you differ are compromises.

2. Based on the results of number 1, decide on a manufacturer and floor plan. In the class A Space, I’m partial to Newmar and Entegra. If money is no object then I’d go with a Newell, Marathon or Foretravel.

3. If you are buying used, get it inspected by an NRVIA certified inspector. You should hire them and and pay them, not the dealer. You want the inspector beholden to your interests, not the dealer’s. Don’t use an inspector recommended by a dealer. They likely do a lot of business with them and might ignore some things in order to stay in good standing with the dealer. You find em. You hire em. Use the results of that report to inform your negotiations. If the report says no problems, they need to inspect it again. Every RV has problems - even brand new ones.

4. Know what you are getting into. RVs are expensive, depreciating assets that are in constant need of repair and maintenance - just like a boat but not quite as expensive. Buying new or used in this market means that you will absolutely never make any money off of your unit. You are purchasing an experience. That is the only sane way to look at it. It’s expensive to buy. Its expensive to sell. It’s expensive to operate. It’s expensive to not operate. The experiences are priceless.

5. Be willing to compromise. You will not get an RV with every single feature you want. Many can be added after market. Get the RV you can comfortably live with and be willing to turn a wrench or two to make it how you want it. The things you can’t easily change or add are the things that must be there on day zero (floorpan, engine, generator, etc). The things you can change or add later are compromises (reverse osmosis system, satellite TV, internet modem, electric gate valves, stainless steel trim etc).

6. This market is hawt, for both new and used. Be ready and willing to move quickly to secure the unit you want once you’ve found it.

7. Know that the first year is full of repairs and tweaks. We call it the shakedown period. Things are going to break and need adjusting. Most of it should be covered under warranty. The hard part is finding all the flaws before your warranty lapses. Use it as much as possible in the first year so that you can find and report all if the issues while your warranty is active. They might not be fixed in the first year but if you report them while the warranty is active, they should be covered under the warranty.

8. Shop around. Make dealers compete for your business. NIRVC is a great dealer in my experience that beat everyone and I heavily shopped my purchase.

9. Use it. Don’t let it sit. RVing is an amazing experience, filled with endless freedom and incredible experiences that most never have the opportunity to experience. You are very lucky to be able to do it. So take every advantage.

10. There are going to be bad days. Days you really question whether or not you made the right decision or just wasted a boatload RV load of money. There will be good days. Days when you can’t imagine being without an RV ever again. RVing is as much about the journey as it is the destination. Have fun with it and don’t take life too seriously. You’re never getting out alive.

Thank you for this great advice! Exactly what I was hoping for. I am not interested in a larger class A for comfort as much as having room for 4 adults and our 5 year old grand daughter. I’ve seen a lot of class Cs that, if we have 5 on board, 2 can sit in the drivers and paaaenger seats, but everybody else must sit at the little dining table or lie in a bed.
We will travel from our home in KY to places like
Southern NM to visit family, or to the far away parks and tourist spots.
I agree that the car is a must.

 

[RKO]

Big , and no toad?- hmmmm, do you want to unhook everything, pullup jacks, remove chocks, pull in slides, awnings, pick up everything, to run to the store for milk? or some repair part? Or go sightsee?
And, can you even fit the big rig in whatever place you go to pick up that repair part?
And, so your stuff wouldn't get stolen, you picked up everything and now your spot looked unoccupied, and now, maybe it is occupied when you return, by a confused resident who won't want to move? Just throwing out thoughts.
I can't imagine no toad - it's also extremely helpful in emergencies- you might need a quick trip to a medical facility.
I kinda don't think you can easily do it without a tow vehicle if it's over 25 feet.
I went to a large local dealer and walked through several sizes models - for us (we're tall) it seemed that we felt comfortable at 34-35 feet, and although I admire the luxury of bigger ones, at this time we didn't want the added expense of storing, insuring, purchasing, and equipping a larger one. I don't think we would feel comfortable in smaller ones, though.
I also noticed that the cooktop, sink, and fridge took on a more 'weekend camper' look in models smaller than 33 feet or so. We cook a lot and I just didn't like the kitchens. Or the weird corner beds.
That said, I could change. My mom cooked for a family of 6 on a coleman 2-burner stove when we camped out.
Our first mh was longer, and I prefer the shorter one we have now. But many people say the 40+ footers have more stable ride. I wouldn't know but we feel comfortable in our 35-er.
I also notice that Tiffin owners add a couple devices (one is 'Saf-T Steer) - I dunno why.

Yep. I’ve spent lots of time cruising in my older, 30 foot sailboats. The galley and head are tiny, the salon is uncomfortable underway, and the boat is too small for bouncy water. We are 4 adults. Wife daughter son in Law and 5 year old granddaughter. I just don’t think a small class C would work. A larger one could, but it seems, and I could be very wrong, that a 35 foot class C doesn’t seem as stout as a 35ft class A would be. Is that accurate?

 

[MapNerd]

I am not interested in a larger class A for comfort as much as having room for 4 adults and our 5 year old grand daughter.

With that many people on board, you want a Newmar 4326 or 4310 or something similar to it from another manufacturer.

 

[redbaron]

@Neal I think @MapNerd Response deserves a sticky. Excellent detailed write up

 

[MapNerd]

Yep. I’ve spent lots of time cruising in my older, 30 foot sailboats. The galley and head are tiny, the salon is uncomfortable underway, and the boat is too small for bouncy water. We are 4 adults. Wife daughter son in Law and 5 year old granddaughter. I just don’t think a small class C would work. A larger one could, but it seems, and I could be very wrong, that a 35 foot class C doesn’t seem as stout as a 35ft class A would be. Is that accurate?

I think that is a fair assessment. All units are going to be a bit tight with the slides retracted but in my experience, Class As offer a bit more space and comfort when in transit.

 

[bpaikman]

Maybe it's the chassis, but something about diesels feels solid.. But I've never driven a C.

Yep. I’ve spent lots of time cruising in my older, 30 foot sailboats. The galley and head are tiny, the salon is uncomfortable underway, and the boat is too small for bouncy water. We are 4 adults. Wife daughter son in Law and 5 year old granddaughter. I just don’t think a small class C would work. A larger one could, but it seems, and I could be very wrong, that a 35 foot class C doesn’t seem as stout as a 35ft class A would be. Is that a

 

[bpaikman]

MapNerd's post is great - pretty much hits all points. The only thing I'd add is - I did indeed look at 35-foot motohomes that had king beds, fireplaces, washer/dryer, dishwasher, and dining/computer credenzas, sofa, and recliner. Tiffin 34qfa can support all that. However, it has some quality and steering issues that finally steered me away. It sleeps 4, and it would be TIGHT.
We just prefer as small as possible, to feel comfortable, for a bit more flexibility. It suits our particular plans and lifestyle.

 

[Old Bubblehead]

@MapNerd nailed it.

Find a floorplan your DW and you can live with. The kids/ grandkids thing doesn't always work out. We built our first coach. We were sure the kids and GK's would want to do the camping thing. We had the pull out coach, drop down bunk, convertible dinette. Two years with that coach, one trip with kids and grands. Next coach was sized for us, if they show up we figure it out.

Best of luck.

 

[bpaikman]

This is brand new to us. We both retired in our mid 50s, and are planning to start shopping for a class A or C. The wife envisions an RV that we can drive across the country, and not tow a car behind it. I am fairly sure that even if we got a smaller class C, we would eventually realize we have to tow a small car. That’s no big deal, I cannot imagine that I would not be the driver 100% of the time.
What’s your advice as we begin to shop? I’ve owned older cruising sailboats for years and am a firm believer that in terms of safety, comfort and fun, one should buy as big a vehicle as they are comfortable with.
I would appreciate any and all advice.thanks!!

I had the idea also (no tow vehicle) at first, Thinking that we were just rent a car every time we stopped someplace and needed a car . First of all, it might not be possible to get a rental car. Secondly everything that Mapnerd said.

 

[10thtp]

After 40+ Years in the Boat and RV business and owning 9 motor homes and using an unknown number of company coaches I will say you have received some excellent advice so far. My experience and advice given to a lot of customers is, a class A if it fits your budget will be easier to drive and allow you to see more of the scenery than a C. Most C chassis are close to the max GVW before adding any gear or passengers. This will make it less stable handling than a comparable size A. You will also see more C’s with front roof and sidewall damage than A’s because it is a big learning curve to learn that sitting down in that van cab with 4 or 5 feet overhead and 1 1/2 ft or so out on the side, this causes some depth perception problem for most folks until they get use to it. In an A you will be up closer to the top and only inches from the side making your clearance perception more like a car or pickup. I drove between Dallas TX and Key West FL several times before getting my 1st A motor home. The wife and I could not believe the scenery we were missing when we made that same trip in the motor home. Sitting up in a class A lets you see over cars and fences things you can’t see from a van.
Size is almost impossible for someone to give you good advise. That is a personal preference and comfort zone. 31 to 36 is my comfort zone when towing a toad and a tow car is a must. We enjoyed camping and traveling in our bigger rigs but for me driving, there were more white knuckles and clenched teeth in city driving and parking. “But to each his own”.
Buy Quality. Most of the coaches listed in previous posts would be on my short list.

 

[10thtp]

After 40+ Years in the Boat and RV business and owning 9 motor homes and using an unknown number of company coaches I will say you have received some excellent advice so far. My experience and advice given to a lot of customers is, a class A if it fits your budget will be easier to drive and allow you to see more of the scenery than a C. Most C chassis are close to the max GVW before adding any gear or passengers. This will make it less stable handling than a comparable size A. You will also see more C’s with front roof and sidewall damage than A’s because it is a big learning curve to learn that sitting down in that van cab with 4 or 5 feet overhead and 1 1/2 ft or so out on the side, this causes some depth perception problem for most folks until they get use to it. In an A you will be up closer to the top and only inches from the side making your clearance perception more like a car or pickup. I drove between Dallas TX and Key West FL several times before getting my 1st A motor home. The wife and I could not believe the scenery we were missing when we made that same trip in the motor home. Sitting up in a class A lets you see over cars and fences things you can’t see from a van.
Size is almost impossible for someone to give you good advise. That is a personal preference and comfort zone. 31 to 36 is my comfort zone when towing a toad and a tow car is a must. We enjoyed camping and traveling in our bigger rigs but for me driving, there were more white knuckles and clenched teeth in city driving and parking. “But to each his own”.
Buy Quality. Most of the coaches listed in previous posts would be on my short list.

Adding to the above. Buy the best you can afford. It’s better to spend more than you want, than less than you should. The bitterness of poor quality will linger long after the sweetness of a cheap price is gone. That being said in today’s business world quality may be hard to find. The quality of some of the old brands known for their quality are being compromised by the p&l decisions being made in the board room by the holding company that now owns them. Your dealer may your best resource however, many of them are experiencing the same fate as the manufacturer all at some point are limited by the support of the manufacturer. Remember your rv is just parts and pieces and most can be replaced or fixed. RVing is a great life style.
You have free will. Don’t let anything that’s out of your control keep you from enjoying life.

 

[Medadman]

@MapNerd, @10thtp, Do you have any thoughts about any of the Super Cs? I am also in the process of researching a purchase. My research, at least thus far, agrees with your assessments/comments. I am headed to the FL RV Super Show this weekend to continue the process.

 

[MapNerd]

@MapNerd, @10thtp, Do you have any thoughts about any of the Super Cs? I am also in the process of researching a purchase. My research, at least thus far, agrees with your assessments/comments. I am headed to the FL RV Super Show this weekend to continue the process.

Personally, I find them not worth the typical asking price unless you need to pull some serious weight. Super-Cs are most intended for those who need to pull a large trailer or heavy item with them. Think NASCAR pit crew pulling a mobile garbage full of tools and parts, or someone pulling a large boat or maybe even a double stacker trailer loaded with a heavy vehicle and lots of other heavy stuff. Perhaps someone who wants to pull a large horse trailer.

If you don’t have that need, a Super-C tends to get you a high price, with less space than a Class A, but often a similar length creating the same length restrictions you might encounter with a tag axle diesel pusher. You do often get air ride seats and driver and passenger doors though, so there’s that.

 

[Medadman]

Thanks for the thoughts.