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Tow Vehicle

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c1gmlm

RVF Newbee
Joined
Mar 24, 2021
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2
After being boaters for many years we have decided to do some land cruising. Not full time, extended trip out west. We have a Ram 1500 4X4 Outdoorsman with the Big Horn Package. It has the 3.6 L engine with8- speed transmission and 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio. Documentation says it can tow about 7100 Lbs. Knowing we can't pull a monster, we are looking at trailers 3,000 - 4000 lb range, (similiar to Sportsman Classic 160QB) Is this doable, or should I look for something smaller.

Thanks
Mike
 
After being boaters for many years we have decided to do some land cruising. Not full time, extended trip out west. We have a Ram 1500 4X4 Outdoorsman with the Big Horn Package. It has the 3.6 L engine with8- speed transmission and 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio. Documentation says it can tow about 7100 Lbs. Knowing we can't pull a monster, we are looking at trailers 3,000 - 4000 lb range, (similiar to Sportsman Classic 160QB) Is this doable, or should I look for something smaller.

Thanks
Mike
Yes the numbers are right. I assume we are talking gas. If we are then the big issue is frontal area. I would see what RAM tells you about that issue.

I also assume you didn't get the standard engine for the economy of the configuration, if that is true likely you will be disappointed with the MPG.
 
After being boaters for many years we have decided to do some land cruising. Not full time, extended trip out west. We have a Ram 1500 4X4 Outdoorsman with the Big Horn Package. It has the 3.6 L engine with8- speed transmission and 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio. Documentation says it can tow about 7100 Lbs. Knowing we can't pull a monster, we are looking at trailers 3,000 - 4000 lb range, (similiar to Sportsman Classic 160QB) Is this doable, or should I look for something smaller.

Thanks
Mike
With the 3.55 gears a trailer with a GVWR of 6000 lbs or less will not be a problem for your truck. Fortunately there has been a move to lighter trailers that can be towed by smaller and more fuel efficient vehicles for the past 20 plus years. Hopefully the Trump tax on aluminum from Canada will end and this will lower the prices for trailers manufactured in the United States.

Something to consider is that the frontal area of the trailer is important and the current Ford trailering guide even specifies towing requirements based on this measurement as well as the tow load. Trailers with more aerodynamic fronts or the hard sided popup trailers that have solid sides but collapse for towing.
 
So I took my rig with trailer and Ryker on a 300 mile trip last weekend (see my Youtube channel for that video) and it towed fine. I do have a few notes worth mentioning:

1) My gas mileage dropped from 16-17 MPG to 11-12 MPG at 65-70 MPH.
2) Using the "tow" mode on the dodge platform did not seem to help at lower speeds.
3) At 65-70 MPH the transmission needed to downshift more often than I'd like it to. Much better at 60-65MPH
4) There are no hills in South FL ... so no hill climbing was attempted.
5) The dodge seemed to have plenty of power to get up to speed and the brakes never seemed to complain.

So my biggest concern right now is for long trips ... I'll need to drive slower than I'd like if I am towing. I usually cruise around 70 MPH but if I am towing I may need to limit that to around 60 MPH. Plus I still have no experience on hills.
 
Payload?
 
The trailer weighs about 650lbs (with trailer spare and empty container), the Ryker is also about 650lbs, the RV spare tire is another 65-70lbs, and I had about 30lbs inside the container .... for a total trailer weight of about 1400lbs.
 
So my biggest concern right now is for long trips ... I'll need to drive slower than I'd like if I am towing. I usually cruise around 70 MPH but if I am towing I may need to limit that to around 60 MPH. Plus I still have no experience on hills.

Just keep in mind that towing at 60mph out west where some state have a 75mph speed limit (and the average speed is over 80mph) you are putting yourself somewhat at risk. I'm not sure I would do that just to save a few dollars on fuel usage.
 
Now for the nitty gritty. with gearing you can do great tasks with a small engine/motor. My ram has 3.72 gears that allow more work to be done than 3.55 gears would allow.
What that means is your transmission would not shift as much if your gearing was different.

Engine size makes the difference on how fast the task can be done. HP is used for this calculation. Torque is the force that overcomes. gearing increases the engine torque the engine produces.

If basically flat land limits what you feel you should be able to do, then the above explains what must be done, Bigger drive train. I am not held back by my drive train, mostly because I have a large enough engine and proper gears in the rear. I will disclose however I travel at 50 to 55 mph. If you make it to California you will find 55 mph max for vehicles towing trailers. Also most interstates have a min speed limit of 45 mph. Let that 45 mph statement be a notice to you that if you travel into the mountains what you are driving may see speeds much slower than that. Another heads up. My 5.7l with 8 speed and 3.72 gears have milage while towing much the same as yours does. However my milage while not towing is between 21 and 16 mpg depending on how I drive. Yes mine is 4x4 as well.
 
Gas vs diesel, HP, torque, gear ratio, all factors into what weight you are dragging down the highway. My truck is pretty heavy along with my loaded fiver, but with a 10 speed tranny and 410 gear (diesel) it rarely comes out of 10th while towing (torque).
 
I have owned and towed travel trailers with both a 2015 Ram crewcab with 3.6 v6 with 3:21 gear ratio 2 WD did ok T 60-65 8-10 mpg this was 7k toy hauler over 1k trip twice did ok on the hills. Traded for 2018 Ram crewcab 5.7 with 3:92 gears 2WD several trips over 800 miles one trip out west 2700 miles round trip averaged 8 mpg. The 18 has heavier suspension and did great. If you stay in the 4K lb range your truck will do great. Just make sure to get a good weight distribution hitch with sway control. Don’t try without either. And a good brake control. And have fun traveling!
 
I tow at 65 mpg and an average of 10k miles per year. Never had a problem on 75 mph highways. It's usually the speed loaded semi's run.
 
I have already balance out the trailer pretty good ... but now for a tougher question. I am debating if I should even bring the Ryker out west with me on this trip. I mean, I am going to Zion national park and will have to take shuttles or my e-bike to the park because it is closed to traffic. (staying at Zion Canyon campground). The I am heading over to Archview campground in Moab to goto Arches national park and Canyonland .... I am thinking I may want to just use the B class for those trips ... anyone have any experience here?
 
BTW, my original plan was to use the Ryker as my toad ... but The B class is pretty easy to drive around as well
 
I'm curious like Germanrazor...the payload on the tow vehicle is more important than the Max Tow Rating!
Good Luck and safe travels
 
I'm curious like Germanrazor...the payload on the tow vehicle is more important than the Max Tow Rating!
Good Luck and safe travels
The hardest number to reconcile is payload. The only way to fix a payload problem is with a bigger truck or smaller trailer. Take the time to go to a truck dealer and look underneath a 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton truck at the rear axle. The biggest problem is the axle bending if you bottom out while negotiating a rough road or dip. Equalizer hitches transfer weight to front axle but the weight rating of the axles must be considered for safe hauling.

trailer brakes handle the over 2000 pounds that the truck is designed to handle. However when you increase payload you increase the load the truck must stop with it's brakes, that may lead to unsafe stopping distance. It is complex and manufactures take the assumption the other guy does his part. You bet'ya payload is important. One way to improve brake power is to increase the number of axles on the trailer as long as the axle has brakes installed. That is why I like at least 2 axles on my rigs. Actually adding axles will reduce tong weight requirements. This fact can make a safe tow with a smaller payload truck.
 
I am not even close on the payload capacity as the trailer tongue is only adding 170 lbs ... and I have not added anything major inside yet. My plans are to stop in a with station as soon as it is loaded up
 
I assume you mean "weigh station"? I would suggest you go to a truck stop to get weighed. Depending on which place you go (Loves, Flying-J, Pilot, TA....) you will only pay between $10 and $15 for the weigh ticket. Most busy interstate weigh stations will wave you out since you are not suppose to be in there.
 

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