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mm66099

RVF Newbee
Joined
May 3, 2021
Messages
4
Afternoon I have a question? Looking to buy a 41ft fifth wheel toy hauler. We have a Ford f250 super duty 6.7 diesel crew cab 4x4 , can we pull a 41ft safely
 
There’s an awful lot more to it than that.

you need to know:
The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of your 5th wheel. This is located on your 5ers vehicle information sticker and represents the maximum weight the trailer is designed to handle. When your 5the wheel is fully loaded with all gear, clothes, and stuff, it should always be below this weight but you can use this weight to plan with to give yourself some room to grow.

you need to know the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of your truck. This is on the door jamb sticker and represents the maximum allowable weight of your truck, including all of the stuff and people you put in it. When fully loaded, your truck’s actual weight should always be below this number.

you need to know the actual weight of your truck. Load it up as you would travel, including all occupants and stuff, and drive to a CAT scale and have the truck weighed.

subtract the actual weight from your truck’s GVWR. This number is how much capacity you have left to take in your truck bed.

you need to know your trucks Gross Combined Weight Rating. This number is located on the door jamb of your truck and represents the maximum amount of weight your truck can haul, including its own weight.

  • the actual weight of your truck -plus- the GVWR of your 5er must be less than your truck’s GVWR.
  • The GVWR of your 5er -plus- the actual weight of your truck should also be less than 80% of your truck’s GVWR. This ensures you have reserve power on tap for passing, climbing descending and emergency maneuvers
  • the GVWR of your truck -minus- the actual weight of your truck should be less than 25% of your 5ers GVWR. This ensures the remaining GVWR capacity of your truck is able to the pin weight of your 5er being placed on the truck.
 
Last edited:
There’s an awful lot more to it than that.

you need to know:
The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of your 5th wheel. This is located on your 5ers vehicle information sticker and represents the maximum weight the trailer is designed to handle. When your 5the wheel is fully loaded with all gear, clothes, and stuff, it should always be below this weight but you can use this weight to plan with to give yourself some room to grow.

you need to know the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of your truck. This is on the door jamb sticker and represents the full weight of your truck, including all of the stuff and people you put in it. When fully loaded, your truck’s actual weight should always be below this number.

you need to know the actual weight of your truck. Load it up as you would travel, including all occupants and drive to a CAT scale and have the truck weighed.

subtract the actual weight from your truck’s GVWR. This number is how much capacity you have left to take in your truck bed.

you need to know your trucks Gross Combined Weight Rating. This number is located on the door jamb of your truck and represents the maximum amount of weight your truck can haul move, including its own weight.

  • The GVWR of your 5er -plus- the actual weight of your truck should be less than 80% of your truck’s GVWR
  • the actual weight of your truck -plus- the GVWR of your 5er must be less than your truck’s GVWR.
  • the GVWR of your truck -minus- the actual weight of your truck should be less than 25% if your 5ers GVWR. This ensures the remaining GVWR capacity of your truck is able to the pin weight of your 5er being placed on the truck
Thanks this will definitely help!
 
Please follow John's advice and above all else, don't ask the salesman because he would tell you an F-150 would handle the trailer.
 
If your truck is rated to handle the weight, it can overpower the sway in most conditions.

if you’re close, consider going to a 350 with duals. The extra wheels will make for better sway control and increase your GVWR.
 
If your truck is rated to handle the weight, it can overpower the sway in most conditions.

if you’re close, consider going to a 350 with duals. The extra wheels will make for better sway control and increase your GVWR.
I agree thanks!
 
Also, if you find yourself trying to figure out how to load things between the truck and 5er, while you may be able to do it to technically make the numbers work, you’re under trucked. Get a bigger truck or smaller RV. Anything else is rolling dice with precious cargo
 
I am pulling a 37' toyhauler (XLR Nitro 321) with a 2002 2500HD Duramax that has upgraded tires adding 800# of rear capacity, Air Lift bags to level and help with sway, and an Anderson hitch that only weighs 40# to help with rear truck weight. I have not had any problems, but I know I am right on the edge and probably a bit over. My rear axles with stock tires is 6084. With the upgraded tires I go to 6830. The tires are the weak link for rear axle rating as the axles, brakes, and drive train for the 2500 and the 3500 are the same. I definitely notice when in a good cross wind, but the unit does not feel out of control. The older Duramax pulls fine and I have no problem stopping.

With a 41' you are going to be heavier than me and have a bit more of a sail, but you also have a truck that is an upgrade from mine. Don't know that this helps, just sharing my personal experience.
 
I'm pretty sure the OP will be over on at least payload (tongue) capacity with a SRW F250. Moving up to a DRW F350 you jump way up over 6,500 payload with the max payload package.
 

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