Using the Black Tank Flush Valve

[FLSteve]

You don't want to walk away and forget you have water going into the black tank with the gate valve closed. Bad things will happen if the black tank gets filled and there's water still going in.

These are the most important words in this entire posting. I never leave the wet bay area once I have started back flushing. And the older I get the easier it is for me to get distracted. I have heard several horror stories about this and have even seen one example of it happening … to another person's coach.

FLSteve

 

[NWIP]

These are the most important words in this entire posting. I never leave the wet bay area once I have started back flushing. And the older I get the easier it is for me to get distracted. I have heard several horror stories about this and have even seen one example of it happening … to another person's coach.

FLSteve

I start a timer on my phone and then go and sit in front of the guage to make sure it doesn’t get too full. I usually will fill till 80-90% then shut water off to flush, drain and flush again. I do this every time I dump.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

I may have found the mixing valve I have been looking for.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HRQRJPW/?tag=rvf01-20

I'm think I am going to order one since Amazon has a good return policy (as @Neal is fond of pointing out). The same unit is about two bucks less direct from the distributor, but I don't know if they are as good about returns as Amazon.

This particular faucet will be a bit of a snug fit (front-to-back) as I measure my wet bay, but I think it will fit. Since the spout swivels 180 degrees, it won't create any additional space issues when swiveled to the side. And, being able to swivel it out of the wet bay could make filling a windshield washing bucket easier.

Any thoughts before I pull the trigger?

TJ

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

the older I get the easier it is for me to get distracted.

No truer words were ever spoken about...uhhh...what were we talking about just now? I forgot.

TJ

 

[Akdare]

I may have found the mixing valve I have been looking for.

Kingston Brass KS373C Kingston 6-Inch Adjustable Center Wall Mount Laundry Faucet Polished Chrome - - Amazon.com

I'm think I am going to order one since Amazon has a good return policy (as @Neal is fond of pointing out). The same unit is about two bucks less direct from the distributor, but I don't know if they are as good about returns as Amazon.

This particular faucet will be a bit of a snug fit (front-to-back) as I measure my wet bay, but I think it will fit. Since the spout swivels 180 degrees, it won't create any additional space issues when swiveled to the side. And, being able to swivel it out of the wet bay could make filling a windshield washing bucket easier.

Any thoughts before I pull the trigger?

TJ

I’m looking to do the same mod when I get my coach. I think the 6” referenced in the link is the distance the spout comes away from the wall. Not sure that’s enough to clear the distance from the wet bay panel to allow water to go directly into a bucket. I was looking at something similar but more expensive with a longer spout.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

Actually, according to the specs, the center of the spout swings out to10-3/8" from the wet bay panel. In our coach, that should put it about 3" outside the wet bay. And the spout is not vertical, but is angled away from the wet bay, so that should put the water stream even farther out. We would be using a short hose on it anyway, so that aspect isn't critical for us.

I think the 6" reference is to the nominal distance between the two inputs. They are adjustable in width from 3-1/2" to 8-1/2", but the actual distance between the valves is nominally 6".


TJ

 

[Akdare]

I look forward to seeing how this goes for you, as I will do the same. Also, a person on that other forum used this to cover the large open rectangle left by removing the POS shower that is on there...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PUWFMG0/?tag=rvf01-20

 

[Hawkeye]

Jim, I don't know if your MA would be much different, but I don't believe that faucet would work on our coach because it sticks out about 5 3/4" from the baseplate. I'm sure you could eliminate the Newmar base and make your own flat one. Someone on the other forum did use a faucet similar, but I don't remember if they threw the Newmar base out. If you do make your own cover base plate, you would not need the adjustable width because the plumbing is flexible pex piping. That type of faucet would certainly be very nice with the swing out spigot, my motto is to KISS (keep it simple stupid), with no reference to you, LOL, Good Luck

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

We are on the same page, Hawkeye. I got to thinking about making a flat cover to replace the Newmar one and the light went on: "valve inlet spacing no longer matters." The lights still do come on in this old brain, but sometimes not until well after dark. ?

I am going to do another search for a mixing valve, disregarding inlet spacing, and see if I find anything I like better.

TJ

 

[Old-RV'er]

We were told by an owner to flush sewer tank each and every time you dump it. I flush it until the flush water runs as clear as possible (clear section for sewer hose). I flush for couple minutes, then close black tank valve and let tank fill for no longer than 2.5 minutes, then open black tank valve and let that mess go down sewer line. Let it run for couple more minutes, then do the close valve count 2.5 minutes, open valve and then let it run until clear. I would think about 10-15 minutes tops. I can say, that the sensors usually take about 2-3 hours to show zero in the tank. I use blue power chemical in the tank. Since I get to do the dump, I also get to clean up the toilet and recharge it with chemical. Just part of RV'ing.

Oh, several folks have suggested different things to put into the gray water tank to clean it. I got some pods things at camping world, and the day before we travel, and after I have dumped tanks, I put one in the bathroom sink and fill it up and swish it around until it's dissolved. Then usually we are traveling for a few days, I don't dump tanks until we are going to stop for a few days, then dump the gray water tank provided it's got at least 20-40% in it, then dump it and close valve. Some recommendations are to not let the tank stay open so crap does not accumulate in the bottom of the tank, so we close ours after dumping, even if this means I get to dump it every few days, and since no flush system on it, this ensures I won't have the "pile of crud" forming in that tank.

Someplace I got a "recalibration manual for the system. I will attempt to attach that manual here:

 

[sheridany]

A related black tank rinsing question: The consensus I have read is not to drain your black tank until they are at least 3/4 full in order to flush everything out with the force of the water flow.

So what does one do when they use their rv for a weekend and have less than 1/2 tank full?

Do you add more water to raise the black tank level or just drain it as is with a good rinse. I read somewhere that someone wrote to fill the tank higher using the black tank rinse and I am not so sure of that idea.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

If we find ourselves in the situation you describe, we just dump what's in the tank and do a good clear-water flush. With the new macerator toilets, there's less chance for solids buildup. Trying to put it delicately, black-tank contents are in a slurry consistence rather than clumps and drain more completely.

TJ

 

[Neal]

So what does one do when they use their rv for a weekend and have less than 1/2 tank full?

I'm sure this could warrant better replies ?

 

[Old-RV'er]

All - Everyone is different, but we ran into one Lady who owned the year before us, when we were picking up our new MH last year. She give us good insight into when to flush black tank, she does it every time she dumps. I asked her why, she said it keeps the sensors working better (although they maybe ultrasonic) and it gets rid of all the bad stuff in the tank. So here is how I do it.

Yes, there is a built in anti-syphon valve built in, I put another one (use Y connector, turn off supply to house when flushing).

I have a special hose dedicated to only flush out black tank, it's a coiled green hose. I hook up a anti-syphon valve and then a pressure regulator, then the flush hose. I do this while the black tank is draining.

Once tank is mostly empty, I turn on water supply and start the flushing process. I let this run for 90 seconds to 2 minutes, then close the black tank valve and with watch, time out 90 seconds - to 2 minutes. Once time elapsed I open up black tank drain valve and again let it run for 2 minutes or so. Then repeat the above three times. I have a clear pipe connector at the end of the sewer hose, and once it is running clear (or as clear as this can show) I am finished with the drain/flush process. I shut of flush water supply, it will drain out of the anti-syphon valve for a bit. Then I disconnect the hose from the supply, then take the AS and regulator off the hose bib. I let the green hose drain onto the ground for a bit. Then disconnect the hose from the coach, put the cap back on, and stow my stuff in the rear most drivers side compartment, small enough for not much of stuff, but it holds all this. I am anal, I attach the AS, WP regulator, and connect the male end into the AS so in effect I have a loop of sealed hose. The next time I don't have to look for anything it's all connected together.

As mentioned, I let the tank hit the 3/4 full mark, or the yellow light on the panel inside to light up. It takes a day or so, for anything to show on the tank gauges in our coach, this was true as well for the lady we ran into who advised us to flush every time we dump.

Have Fun!

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

I have a special hose dedicated to only flush out black tank, it's a coiled green hose.

This is a good point. I mark all the hoses I carry in the coach (except the one on the hose reel) with colored electrical tape; green for potable fresh water and red for sewer flush and other non-potable water use. I put a wrap of colored tape on each end of the hose, about 3" back from the connector. That provides a visual identification when hooking up.

TJ

 

[boomer]

Not having two macerator toilets and sensors that have been replace twice I go through a ritualistic exercise when I drain my black tank. At the 3/4 mark I drain like everyone else, turn on the rinse part way through. Run the rinse for 5 minutes after tank is 'empty'. Close the valve, put 30 gallons back in (I have a gauge), dump the tank again (rinse on), repeat the 30 gallons again (sometimes I do 40). Finally close the black tank, open the gray and go inside and pray. Normally the gauge will still read 3/4 tank (love the KIB sensors) until we flush either toilet a few times, then the reading goes to less than 1/4.
Brought this up with Newmar/KIB and they insinuated I wasn't using chemical. After the tank gets to 1/2 I add Aqua Kem every time. Being we are full time I put Tank Blaster in overnight every 1- 1 1/2 months.
Had this issue with black tank since the first 5 months of ownership. Apparently there is just no fix.
One saving grace, once the sensors start reading the tank is near empty, it reads fine.

 

[tgdiebolt]

It seems that this mod will only work with the water pump ON. For city water you would need to add a faucet to the in coming water system. Correct?

 

[AbdRahim]

Here is what I used. One has a slightly different angle (blue) but here are options. I do not use a mixing setup as of yet, haven't had a need.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MA9F4XC/?tag=rvf01-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CFJ3WE/?tag=rvf01-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00835QF8K/?tag=rvf01-20

The weight of these don't put a strain on your connection? I would love to see pictures of how you place these.