Tip Waste Tank Dump Valve Lubrication

[Gronk]

Well, I am in Texas. Just a couple of days ago I was munching on some stuffed jalapenos! I also like to put Sriracha sauce on things.........

 

[J&JD]

Try WD50, I hear it’s 20 percent improved

 

[AbdRahim]

Well, it's been a couple of weeks since I lubed my three valves with WD-40. So far there are no leaks and the valves operate a lot better than they used to. So, my conclusion is that WD-40 isn't going to melt valves or make them swell up and explode!

Best to keep petroleum distillates off of all rubber. You are ok, but better to use silicone lubricant in the future.

 

[AbdRahim]

Just had Indian food tonight. Yummm!!

 

[JRS]

I used CRC brand silicone water resistant lubricant. Did it approximately a week ago, dumped this morning and it worked easier with the mid 70 temps. Currently in Florida and when we had the recent cold spell go through it seemed more difficult to open and close the valves. Still recommend doing it.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

OK! I quit using silicone lube sprays. I still use a spray but not silicone. Why you ask? Because I have found a spray that works much better, and lasts much longer.
Blaster TDL The Dry Lube BL-16-TDL, Teflon Based Dry Lube, 9.3 oz. Aerosol Can - 81-006-413 This teflon lube has proven a quality product to me over the last year and a half.

 

[anne cody]

I have found another method to avoid the drilling. At the beginning of the season, I put an external valve on and put the valve lubricant in he tank. Then I open the inner black and gray valves and let the gaskets soak for 3-5 days. Ten dump and remove outer valve.

During the summer, maybe twice, I put a long rubber tube on the end of a WD40 SILICONE spray can. I snake it upto each valve with gate closed and give a generous shot. Then work the valve a few times. Next I open the valves (tanks empty and rinsed, of course) and snake the tube just past the open valve. Again squirting generously, and work the valve after, withdrawing the tube. Works great. No holes drilled.

Do you have a picture of the long tube you made to put on the wd40 can? My valves are under the belly and I would like to try this method to lubricate the valves.

 

[AbdRahim]

Just take a can of silicone lubricant with a straw to the hardware store and ask for rubber tubing (I use the clear ir near clear stuff). Get tubing that fits as tight as possible over the straw. Get a length longer than what you need to reach the gate valve. You can always cut it if it is too long. I will get a picture later.

 

[House Husband]

Every body has there on way to lube. 20 years ago I drilled and taped the edge of the drain valves for grease zerks. Still haven't had to change the seals.

Richard

 

[sanda]

All this valve lubrication talk. Over the years I have had numerous trailers and dumped hundreds of times . All I've ever done is when dumping I exercise the valves at least 5 times (open/close) with no problems ever. I hope I didn't just jinx myself.

 

[RVThereYet]

All these ideas and mind wonders are great BUT, I have no easy access to the valves. They are all covered with fiberglass panels that cover the entire bottom of the Forest ERiver 5er. There is surely something that you could put in the tank that would lube the valves? Following......

 

[greenwave]

Another lube option which is tottaly fine for rubber and pastic moving parts is Marelube. This stuff is used extensively in the boating industry (sailboats primarily) for thru-hull valves. I have also used it to lubricate air hand pumps like what you might use to manually inflate an air bed or inflatable paddle board.

 

[AbdRahim]

Sorry, thought I posted this already.

 

[Stuart W]

You laugh, a few years ago at the beginning of the SaniCon systems and macerator toilets I read a few reports of people who liked to swallow seeds that were damaging the pump motor blades of macerator toilets and Sanicon macerator pumps. Really you can’t make this Crap up.