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Which wheel delivers power to the ground on a Freightliner chassis?

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Jim

RVF Supporter
Joined
Dec 18, 2019
Messages
3,901
Location
North Carolina
RV Year
2016
RV Make
Newmar
RV Model
London Aire 4551
RV Length
45
Chassis
Freightliner
Engine
Cummins / I6 Diesel Pusher 600HP / 1,950 ft-lbs
TOW/TOAD
2016 Jeep Rubicon
Fulltimer
No
I'm at a state park with one rear wheel partially on the grass and partially on the pavement. The drivers side wheel is completely on the pavement. Wondering which wheel provides power to the ground? If it's the one on the drivers side, I should have no problem pulling out. If it's the passenger side, I may have a problem.
 
Last edited:
in my truck if I had one wheel spinning, I would apply some break pressure while applying throttle to send power to the non slipping side.
 
Unless you have a limited slip or locking differential, the torque will always take the path of least resistance, like slipping on grass.
True and the reason for applying the brake to try and equal the resistance.
 
I'm at a state park with one rear wheel partially on the grass and partially on the pavement. The drivers side wheel is completely on the pavement. Wondering which wheel provides power to the ground? If it's the one on the drivers side, I should have no problem pulling out. If it's the passenger side, I may have a problem.
I don't think it's a wheel it's the drive axle, 2nd from rear. Do you have coach-net or some type of towing service should you ever need it?
 
They are all open carriers. A driver controlled differential lock (air actuated) is an option, but since the customer doesn't order the chassis, no chassis options make it to coaches. And you can’t just add it after the sale because it requires a different housing.

In my experience (having been stuck once) both wheels will spin but the one with least traction will spin considerably more. If you are concerend (on wet/soft ground for instance) have someone watch the wheel in question, and if it spins at all, be proactive and get something hard (firewood for instance) under and in front of it before trying to drive out. Then move out slowly but deliberately and dont stop until you are on firm ground.

I don’t have experience with tag axles, but it would seem that the extra support would benefit you in this situation. If it isn’t already sinking, and/or if your jack on that side didn’t sink, you’ll probably be able to just drive out.
 
I don't know if this is helpful, but last October I was trying to climb a short hill that was covered with a fresh layer of gravel at a well-known small RV park. My recollection is that the driver side broke loose first.
 
I don't think it's a wheel it's the drive axle, 2nd from rear. Do you have coach-net or some type of towing service should you ever need it?
Yes, and I was never really in a bind. But the thought crossed my mind that one wheel was going to perform fine, while the other was iffy. So I asked.

It's all good! :)
 
I don't know if this is helpful, but last October I was trying to climb a short hill that was covered with a fresh layer of gravel at a well-known small RV park. My recollection is that the driver side broke loose first.
Yes, I remember! I've been climbing that same hill now for awhile. But there is a brand new road up there now, and soon I will have to test it out. But not today, I've just spent 4 grueling days on the road, and I need some down time. . .
 
The wheel that is lifted by the torque applied is the wheel that will spin first. Once spinning of course that wheel will have the least traction, so will continue.

In the days of steering brakes, you simply applied the brake on that wheel. Today skid control systems do close to the same thing,
 

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