1992 Independent on Dodge B350 w/sloppy steering

[Kevin D Pem]

Replace the box!!!

Have the frame checked for cracks in that area, as in the past there was a recall, years I don't remember.

Sway bar is always a good thing.

Helper air springs are good, leafs checked and maybe resprung?

And when loaded as you plan to have her loaded. Take her down and make sure you have the weight front to back within the design limits. This very important measure can lead to oversteer or under steer. Furthermore the lower the center of weight the better!

Empty the balance can be off because they may have engineered for the loaded rig. C's and B's are more sensitive to weight distribution.

 

[RoadLessGraveled]

I would replace every part on that front end. Pull the steering box and get it rebuilt or buy a rebuilt one. If its beyond your capabilities find a good shop to do it. Bushings, etc, make a huge difference. Every component on that front end needs to be up to par

Rebuilt boxes get mixed reviews...they are too often not a whole lot better than the old one. I've got a "Redhead" steering box ordered.
The idler arms, lower ball joints and drag link have been replaced within the last 12K miles. There is no play in the sway bar links/bushings, center link or tie rods. I haven't checked the upper ball joints yet.
I agree...everything needs to be tight, but just given the weight distribution, a rear sway bar could really improve cornering from stock.

 

[Joe Hogan]

Red-Head Steering Gears

redheadsteeringgears.com

 

[Chargerman]

I just skimmed through this thread so I may missed this being mentioned already but did you try adjusting the steering box? With all of the movement in the steering wheel without the pitman moving you
Need to tighten that up. No matter what you have done with replacing other components it will drive like a bucket of bolts until you get a tight steering box. Easy to adjust, loosen the lock nut on the box and screw down the center screw until it bottoms and back it off slight and tighten jam nut. Check carefully for any tightness of binding by moving the wheel lock to lock. Then start and try again. Check wheel to pitman are again

 

[Joe Hogan]

If you want to try to adjust the steering box, it is more complicated than one might think at first. There are two adjustments, Input worm gear preload, and then the shaft lash.

Best, if you determine that the box is your problem, is to get a quality rebuild like Redhead. These are easy to replace and are not that expensive to purchase.

 

[Chargerman]

I am pretty sure that his box only has one adjustment and if he has that much play in the wheel without the pitman arm moving then the steering box is definitely a problem. I think it’s a lot easier to try adjusting it than it is to replace it. If adjusting it doesn’t get it tight enough then certainly a quality rebuilt replacement is the next step

 

[Chargerman]

I just noticed that the OP already ordered a rebuilt steering box. Good luck with your replacement.

 

[Underboss]

Rebuilt boxes get mixed reviews...they are too often not a whole lot better than the old one. I've got a "Redhead" steering box ordered.
The idler arms, lower ball joints and drag link have been replaced within the last 12K miles. There is no play in the sway bar links/bushings, center link or tie rods. I haven't checked the upper ball joints yet.
I agree...everything needs to be tight, but just given the weight distribution, a rear sway bar could really improve cornering from stock.

I tend to forget that most people get there rebuilds from auto parts stores. When I had my shop I was fortunate to have a rebuilding shop nearby. They did alternators, steering boxes, old school generators and many other rebuilds.
Have you tried calling Helliwig?

 

[RoadLessGraveled]

I've got a request in to Helliwig for a rear bar that will fit the B350 with the 35 gallon tank. They don't show one on the website.
I'll start with the Redhead box and a new coupler and see how it handles.
I appreciate all the comments!