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Question Charge Line

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Neemer

Crayon Eater
RVF Supporter
Joined
Dec 27, 2019
Messages
2,123
Location
Virginia
RV Year
2021
RV Make
Newmar
RV Model
DSDP 4326
RV Length
43
Chassis
Freightliner
Engine
ISL 450
TOW/TOAD
2023 Winnebago ERA 70A or 2016 Lincoln MKX
Fulltimer
No
I’ve always had a charge line on my toads, and they always had both a positive and a ground wire. My first was the old Toad Charge system (which no longer exists) and the second is an RVI system.

I purchased a Roadmaster charge line kit for my newest toad, and it has only one 14 ga line to carry the charge from the motorhome to a fuse/diode and on to the toad’s battery.

Why wouldn’t this Roadmaster kit also need a ground? Why the difference?
 
I’ve always had a charge line on my toads, and they always had both a positive and a ground wire. My first was the old Toad Charge system (which no longer exists) and the second is an RVI system.

I purchased a Roadmaster charge line kit for my newest toad, and it has only one 14 ga line to carry the charge from the motorhome to a fuse/diode and on to the toad’s battery.

Why wouldn’t this Roadmaster kit also need a ground? Why the difference?
You should already have a dedicated ground connecting your towed to your coach via the light wiring. You should only need one ground.
 
Most will have only the 12v positive from the supply and will depend on the towbar to make ground. But, the reason for the ground to the battery is on the more expensive kits that have better circuitry for overcharging, LED diagnostics, etc.

I have the old brake buddy but just bought the Blue Ox which is 3x more, but has some built-in safeguards. With the squirrely AGM and electronics, I’m gonna hedge my bets as much as possible.

This is what I bought for $98, still a lot cheaper than the new RVi for $140.

 
Interesting. Thanks guys.
 
The towbar did not provide a ground for me so I had to add a ground wire. I was using the 7 pin to run magnetic tail lights so no ground there.
 
I would always add a wired ground. Depending on a ground connection in the tow bar which is being jostled and bouncing a bit, will have very small drops of connection.
With today’s sensitive electronics I don’t want to subject those to hundreds of power fluctuations during a tow.
Safer to just add a wired ground.
 
I am curious what the folks claiming the towbar is used to make the ground.
Are you using the 7 pin connection to the toad?
What is your connection plug to the toad? 7 pin, 6 pin, 4 pin?
Just trying to figure out why any one of those are not carrying your ground. They all are using white as a ground
 
I am curious what the folks claiming the towbar is used to make the ground.
Are you using the 7 pin connection to the toad?
What is your connection plug to the toad? 7 pin, 6 pin, 4 pin?
Just trying to figure out why any one of those are not carrying your ground. They all are using white as a ground
As stated by @MemoriesByTheMile (sorry can't see your Name), the BEST PRACTICE would be to run a ground connection from your coach's 7-way to your toad's 6-way and then ground that to your toad's frame /negative post block. That way, you're assured of a solid ground.

That said, with the way my hitch/receiver is stabilized with clamps, as well as the tow bar pins, I'd be "fairly" comfortable with that coach-toad ground connection.

Hope that answers your question.
 
As stated by @MemoriesByTheMile (sorry can't see your Name), the BEST PRACTICE would be to run a ground connection from your coach's 7-way to your toad's 6-way and then ground that to your toad's frame /negative post block. That way, you're assured of a solid ground.

That said, with the way my hitch/receiver is stabilized with clamps, as well as the tow bar pins, I'd be "fairly" comfortable with that coach-toad ground connection.

Hope that answers your question.
Not actually my question. My question is why are folks claiming that their tow bar is their ground when a 4, 6 and 7 ALL contain a ground
 
Boss, I have seen over the years may installs by not so high quality installers that didn't utilize a wired ground. And just as many that did use the ground just attached to the frame just past the plug. It was almost the standard(at least in my area) for farm trailers. I never liked it. A ball ground is very inconsistent.
 
Boss, I have seen over the years may installs by not so high quality installers that didn't utilize a wired ground. And just as many that did use the ground just attached to the frame just past the plug. It was almost the standard(at least in my area) for farm trailers. I never liked it. A ball ground is very inconsistent.
My Blue Ox would be very inconsistent since I coat my pins with clear to keep them from rusting. It does wear away fairly quickly but it isn't a for sure ground.
 
Not actually my question. My question is why are folks claiming that their tow bar is their ground when a 4, 6 and 7 ALL contain a ground
OK, let me restate my answer, since I fully do understand your question.

For those of use who use a WIRELESS brakelight/turnsignal light and a portable brake system like the Patriot, then an electrical connection via the 7-way to the toad isn't really needed. In fact, the 7-way is occupied by the wireless transmitter. And, unless you've configured it such as I have with a piggyback plug, there's no way to utilize the ground and power pins on that 7-way.

Therefore, some folks will just run a simple/single 12v positive from their coach to the battery on the toad and expect the towbar connection to be the ground.

But, we all know how critical a battery maintainer is, now, so yeah...pretty much a necessity to get that good connection using the 7-way.

Better answer?

Took me a long while to figure this out, but here is the piggyback I'm using with the Master Tailgater's wireless transmitter just so you'll see it as a reference.

 

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