Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Friendliest RV Community on the web
  • Modern site for PC's, Phones, Tablets - no 3rd party apps required
  • Ask questions, help others, review campgrounds
  • Get the most out of the RV Lifestyle
  • Invite everyone to RVForums.com and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome

Question 2002 Breckenridge 43 footer A/C not adequate?

Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Modern secure site, no 3rd party apps required
  • Invite your friends and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome
  • Friendliest RV community on the web
This is the stuff I was talking about. It’s about 1/4” thick, folds and tucks away easily. WeView attachment 12458 have large windows and use it to block afternoon sunlight then take it down. Helps a lot!
Ahh yes. That's what I was picturing but not that thick! Thank you. I'm sure it works fine. I guess this reminds me of another problem. IF the windows were double pain with argon gas and some UV and thermal gain resistant I won't need to tint my windows and you wouldn't need to using these insulating panels to stop solar gain!
 
I’m sure some expensive units come with insulated glass but not on my ‘21 Arctic Wolf! Lol
 
I did some rough numbers on your 43’ trailer. Guestimating 43’L x 8’W x 8’ H interior.
You need minimum of 25K AC capacity if you have dissent insulation and windows.
To be on the safe side, two 15K units in proper working order should be fine.
I think 🤔
 
just FYI, one 15k ac was not adequate in my 30’ Bay Star. My 35’ Ventana only has about 2.5 more feet of living space than my Bay Star did due to the closet and washer/dryer arangement, but it has an additional 15k ac. Given a minimal increase in living space and double the ac, it is now what I‘d call well balanced.

Anything with 45’ in interior space should really have 3 15k roof units as Buly said. However, since it’s a park model why not see if you can make a ductless mini-split system work on it? You could get a lot more cooling than a roof unit can provide, and probably for about the same cost.
 
Last edited:
I did some rough numbers on your 43’ trailer. Guestimating 43’L x 8’W x 8’ H interior.
You need minimum of 25K AC capacity if you have dissent insulation and windows.
To be on the safe side, two 15K units in proper working order should be fine.
I think 🤔
Thanks Buly for the input and calculation. Yeah the interior is 8' 6" wide by 43' long and has three popouts one is in the living area and is 13' long by 4' deep the others are about 5.5 feet long by 20 inches deep. This thing is so difficult to modify for anything that wasn't included in the original plan. Another roof top ac would work but wow is that going to be a big draw on power. I live on a farm. The power supply is only 70amp and there are two others on this power source plus a seasonal load in Sept and Oct.

Just so I have a reference; can you stick a thermometer in one of the AC vents and see what the air temps is? I only have 52 degree air. I would have thought it should be in the mid to high 30s.
 
just FYI, one 15k ac was not adequate in my 30’ Bay Star. My 35’ Ventana only has about 2.5 more feet of living space than my Bay Star did due to the closet and washer/dryer arrangement, but it has an additional 15k ac. Given a minimal increase in living space and double the ac, it is now what I‘d call well balanced.

Anything with 45’ in interior space should really have 3 15k roof units as Buly said. However, since it’s a park model why not see if you can make a ductless mini-split system work on it? You could get a lot more cooling than a roof unit can provide, and probably for about the same cost.
Thank you sir for the information. Very helpful. Well I did consider a mini split but with 15 windows there is zero wall space for the unit. Unless I can come up with a way to installed it on the roof and replace the existing unit...oh and use the duct work would be nice, I don't see how I can install a mini split in this trailer. I'm sure I can figure out a way to reconfigure a minisplit to work on the roof even if it's inside of an enclosure and fabricated to work. I'll look into this. Thanks. Hey Rich would you be able to take a thermometer and stick it into into one of the AC output registers for about 10 to 15 mins. the next time you run it and give me an idea what the temp is? My is only 52 degrees...it seems very high to me.


Chris
 
I’m sure some expensive units come with insulated glass but not on my ‘21 Arctic Wolf! Lol
Hmm that's really too bad. Oh well. All these issues to me is unacceptable for full time 4 season living in Rhode Island. I guess this is why I've been working on this things since I bought it.
 
The discharge air temp should be 15-20 ℉ lower than the air intake temperature, so I think you're output temp is good. The problem is, you need at least 2 and really 3 air conditioning units if you have minimal insulation.

I once had a mobile home on my ranch that was 16 x 80 feet and had a 5-ton ac, 60,000 BTU, and conversely, my home was 3,800 sq ft with two 3-ton units. The difference was in the insulation.
 
Sorry, I don’t have thermometer that I can use for that purpose.
 
Well you got my curiosity up earlier so when I moved my scaffold I plugged in and went inside and turned on the AC. It was 103 outside in the sun, 93 in the shade, 91 inside the coach.

I set the zones on 78. That was at 2:30. When they shut off (if they do) I’ll let you know how long that took. The air coming out of the vents is 63 degrees. So theres some data to mess with. One thing to keep in mind is that I have good insulation and dual pane windows (Newmar!). Back to work…..
 

Attachments

  • 68B5FE83-EC45-48F9-8C43-AE8FCC88DC06.jpeg
    68B5FE83-EC45-48F9-8C43-AE8FCC88DC06.jpeg
    2.8 MB · Views: 5
  • 3B2D71F4-5E5F-4F3D-B207-ED92B988C922.jpeg
    3B2D71F4-5E5F-4F3D-B207-ED92B988C922.jpeg
    3.6 MB · Views: 4

Latest posts

Latest resources

Back
Top