92D190V Electrical Questions

[Digger Dawg]

1. Can you just swap out the FLA coach battery for an AGM one?
2. Requesting recommendations on whether I should just upgrade the Magnetic 32 Amp Power Converter/Charger Series 6300A with the PD4635 with remote or Boondocker 1245PC from the BestConverter website?
3. Requesting recommendations on a replacement or upgrades for my PowerLine Model #22-1 Battery Isolator. Also, is it safe to drive the roadtrek with this removed and the coach battery disconnected or removed?

This lady is basically all stock with a new antique tag and I am doing my best to get her road ready for some long hauls. I would like to run her down to 'Goula or Biloxi for Cruising the Coast but may have to wait until next year.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

AGMs should never be equalized. They have a maximum charge voltage that should never be exceeded. RV converters (3stage) have AGM settings. Make sure you use them. The brand is not important on your converter choice, it should be 3/4stage for the most efficiency.

No! Disconnected isolator will not be an issue.

 

[fishslayer]

1. Can you just swap out the FLA coach battery for an AGM one?
2. Requesting recommendations on whether I should just upgrade the Magnetic 32 Amp Power Converter/Charger Series 6300A with the PD4635 with remote or Boondocker 1245PC from the BestConverter website?
3. Requesting recommendations on a replacement or upgrades for my PowerLine Model #22-1 Battery Isolator. Also, is it safe to drive the roadtrek with this removed and the coach battery disconnected or removed?

This lady is basically all stock with a new antique tag and I am doing my best to get her road ready for some long hauls. I would like to run her down to 'Goula or Biloxi for Cruising the Coast but may have to wait until next year.

I love going to Cruisin The Coast...its a great time..

 

[Digger Dawg]

AGMs should never be equalized. They have a maximum charge voltage that should never be exceeded. RV converters (3stage) have AGM settings. Make sure you use them. The brand is not important on your converter choice, it should be 3/4stage for the most efficiency.

No! Disconnected isolator will not be an issue.

Thanks. I will make sure to get either a 3 or 4 stage converter upgrade to my current single stage. I will also double check to make sure that I'm using the correct charging voltage for the types of batteries I'll be using.

I made sure to wrap the connectors from the isolator in electrical tape and after a little trial, it started right up. It does appear that I have some other issues that I need to look into, mainly the steering column. The previous owners had some work done on the transmission and steering so it doesn't want to go all the way into Park or start in Park and the wipers aren't working even though there aren't any blown fuses. Nothing like the joys of a good mystery to kick off one's retirement!

 

[Digger Dawg]

I love going to Cruisin The Coast...its a great time..

Yep, always a great time. I used to live in Pascagoula until Katrina forced a relocation to George County. Now I'm 45 minutes to an hour from the coast. Looks like this year I'll be watching from the sidelines again.

 

[fishslayer]

Yep, always a great time. I used to live in Pascagoula until Katrina forced a relocation to George County. Now I'm 45 minutes to an hour from the coast. Looks like this year I'll be watching from the sidelines again.

Yeah, we survived Katrina too
.south Louisiama swamp. Dark days.

 

[Digger Dawg]

Yeah, we survived Katrina too
.south Louisiama swamp. Dark days.

Yep. I am now around 225 feet above sea level and just beyond the 500 year flood line for south Mississippi so, if it floods here then I guess Noah will be along shortly.

 

[Digger Dawg]

I'm thinking on keeping the RT basically stock and going with the PD-4635VL (35 Amp) upgrade but am wondering if it would be better to go with either the 45 or 55 Amp models? I am also thinking on installing the Trimetric 2030RV Battery System Monitor but do I go with the 100A Shunt or the 500A one? Lastly, I'm thinking on picking up two 150A Class T fuse blocks. The one in the coach battery compartment appears to be the original one and it came apart when I touched it. Just popped out the the little plastic case. And I haven't found one in the engine compartment near the battery or where the isolator was located. From the best I can tell, the red wire on terminal A1 goes to the Alternator and the black wire on terminal B1 goes to the + side of the starter battery. There is a short red wire on the B2 terminal that went to what appears to be self threading screw/bolt. Hard to tell as it broke off from where ever it was located and is highly rusted. So any suggestions on what/how this was connected?

 

[Digger Dawg]

One last question, what size/gauge of wire should all of this be wired with? There is 6 gauge and larger wire used in the coach battery compartment so, just wondering. Especially, if I go with the larger am converter/charger upgrade, will I have to go with physically bigger gauge wiring like 4 gauge or even 0 gauge?

 

[Digger Dawg]

I have a 200W Renogy solar kit I'm thinking on adding to help with topping off the couch battery and running things during the day. I've read where adding a LI battery and DC-DC charger with mppt would be the way to go for this option. Keeping the Solar an independent system that I can "switch" over when needed.