ABS warning light

[team bradfield]

after a long drive from Rock springs WY and down Provo canyon, smelt hot brakes, no smoke, stopped at Provo KOA and checked in, came out and ABS light was on, it went off right away, I need to use my engine brake more. Did I ruin my brakes, they seemed to work fine around the campground.

 

[Rich W.]

These brakes can take a lot. Even if you smoked them a bit they’d be ok, but you should definitely use you engine brake whenever descending any type of grade. I’m not sure the ABS light was related to heating up your brakes so that’s something to watch.

Just curious, why did you take that route? Just the scenery or to avoid the chaos of SLC? I’ve thought about it many times but never went that way.

 

[team bradfield]

Thanks @Rich W. , I will take 15 and 80 on the way back, it was a bad idea, nice scenery though

 

[Scooterfan]

ABS sensors are certainly affected by hot brake pads. (I fried one recently ) The fact that the warning light went off is an indication you didn't ruin yours, and you shouldn't have to worry about replacing the sensor. Like Rich said, even though you heated up your brakes, you most likely didn't do long term damage. Engine brakes are a valuable tool and should be used often if useful.

 

[Rich W.]

ABS sensors are certainly affected by hot brake pads. (I fried one recently ) The fact that the warning light went off is an indication you didn't ruin yours, and you shouldn't have to worry about replacing the sensor. Like Rich said, even though you heated up your brakes, you most likely didn't do long term damage. Engine brakes are a valuable tool and should be used often if useful.

That makes sense, over heating a sensor and then it working again after it cools down. I’ve had my ABS light come on during regens but its not related to brakes. Or maybe the regen heated up the right rear sensor...?

If I had a DS or anything with a Jake, I’d have it on going down any grade. I used to drive a 4,000 gal tanker with a 3 stage Jake and used it religiously. Now I have a wimpy VGT engine brake on an ISB so I have to work a lot harder to save my brakes.

 

[team bradfield]

Provo to Torry UT today, no brake issues, all good

 

[JRS]

Per above for sure use your 3 stage Jake brake going down inclines! Only use your air brakes hard and short pulses (make sure no one is behind you) to slow down when speeds can't be controlled by the Jake brake. I'll even use the Jake at exits and coming into red lights. Jake/engine brakes are a good tool to use.

 

[Robin Rogerson]

New to RV world , just wondering about High and Low retarder switch and when to use either ? Have a upcoming trip thru Tennessee on I24 over Lookout Mountain. Thanks

 

[SteveMA]

Depending on the coach and the type of engine braking installed, you really can rely on your engine breaking about 75 or 80% of the time I’ve gone over 24 many times and we drive in the Rockies 4-8 times each year and rarely use my service brakes - perhaps a few times on a long downhill. it’s all about engine braking - Let it do it’s job - it will do a fabulous job! obviously control your speed and as said in this thread, when you use your service breaks, use them intentionally - press them firmly but come off them as quickly as you reasonably can - you don’t want to drag them down the hill, or you will overheat them. You didn’t say what type of coach you have, but I’m pretty sure this applies to just about everyone, especially anyone with an engine brake that has more than one level.

I’ve driven large vehicles for longer than I wish to remember - the service brake is for in town and when you really need it on the highway or mountains, otherwise the engine braking is your best friend.

One last thing, a Jake brake was a port that allowed exhaust pressure to be used to slow down the engine - very loud, and why many towns do not permit them. The engine brake on almost all coaches in the last 15 years is a different technology and is effectively silent. So when you come into a town that says “no Jake Brakes” or “no engine braking” it really does not apply to modern RV DP coaches.

 

[team bradfield]

agree with above, and look out mountain you need the engine brake

 

[Joe Hogan]

My $2 (inflation), typically when in the mountains on steep downhills I'll use whatever engine braking is available and moderate the speed between 45-50 mph or so. At the crest of the hill at 45 and let engine brake to moderate the speed. Once the speed reaches 50 mph or so, I apply the brakes firmly to 45 and then let the engine brake work until the speed again builds to 50 mph or so, then brake again with firm pressure down to 45 mph and repeat. This way the brakes can cool between applications and the speed is controlled to a reasonable pace.