Advice on weight trailer to pull safely

[chizzle10]

i have a yukon with max towing of 7900lbs...what is range for trailer weight fully loaded i should buy so i dont kill myself??

 

[Rich W.]

Theres a lot of good info thats been posted in this thread over the last couple days:

Question - Towing

Hi, anyone have any experience towing a 28’ Airstream with a 2023 Land Rover Discovery P360. I am wondering how well it tows?

rvforums.com

 

[Rosy]

Look at your payload capacity first.

 

[FL-JOE]

I just went through this a few months ago when we downsized to our first ever bumper pull.

My TV (tow vehicle) was a new Expedition equipped with the heavy tow package (Timberline). My max tow capacity was 9,300. I knew I didn't want to bump up again that number to we found a 30' travel trailer toy hauler with a dry weight of 5,900.

I upgraded the tires with a higher ply and totally stripped down what we were carrying. As we got on the road heading out of Florida this spring I ran across the scales at Loves. I was 110 pounds over on gross combination weight!!!!

I drained all the fresh water out of my tank that first night and never hauled any again so I was probably right on the number I needed to be, but I was nervous until we returned to our home site.

I should have went with a bumper pull that weighed about 4,900.

 

[Lil'Skeet]

The towing usually isn't the problem. Stopping is what you need to be concerned about. Especially when it's wet. Need weight over your front wheels. Keep up with your electric brakes on your trailer. Good brake controller helps.
Then I'd worry about being able to roast marshmallows over that 4L60e transmission.
I've towed 8k lbs trailers with a V8 1|2 ton as a kid and it was not enjoyable. Even on fairly flat roads.

 

[Lil'Skeet]

People that have done the same and moved up to heavier 3/4 and 1 ton trucks should know what I'm talking about when it feels like your steer tires on the tow vehicle become light. Your vehicle will feel like it wants to wander. Especially on heavily rutted asphalt roads. It's a pretty uneasy feeling at best and I am not the type to get worried.

 

[Bigblockyeti]

Did the OP mention the year of the Yukon? The 4L60E hasn't been offered in quite some time, over 10 years ago the switch was made to a 6 speed auto.

Personally I like to keep the towed weight to no more than 80% of what the vehicle is rated usually*. GCWR & payload (for the tow vehicle and trailer) need to stay below the max for legality, especially if something should go wrong, and for towing comfortably. Another wildcard is trailer frontal area, this is usually specified in the owners manual for the tow vehicle. My truck was an oddball where in 2012 the maximum frontal area listed in the owners manual was 60sqft. Within 3 model years later that number was changed to 30sqft with zero mechanical changes were made to the truck. I can say from experience that frontal area can really work against you. I've pulled a small trailer weighing 6000lb with gravel and the minimal frontal area made pulling easy. Conversely, I've pulled a 3100lb enclosed trailer shaped like a brick that became downright miserable to pull over 55mph.

* Minivans often max out at an artificially low 3500-3600lb towing capacity. Manufacturers realize allowing a tow rating of 5000lb would cause many owners & potential buyers to realize the lack of "S" and the lack of "UV" in their high profit margin SUVs. Minivans can benefit from a bit more rear spring usually but once that's addressed, they are as capable if not moreso than the similar SUV with the same engine and transmission with a higher CG and less cargo room.

 

[mjeds]

here is my question: can you increase your towing capacity with modifications to your vehicle?

my TT comes it at 6,500lbs- ish, the max combined weight for my "SUV" is 6,000lbs. I have used the Haul-Gauge ODBII and App to figure the combined weight and it shows me to be around 6,400lbs and there is a 10% error margin.

When the SUV was completely OEM, the rear sagged about 2.5inches when the trailer was attached. Tongue weight max on OEM is 600lbs, The was trailer is coming in at 690lbs tongue weight, so I moved batteries to the basement (upgrade to lithium). That dropped the tongue weight to 560lbs.

I installed air bags in the rear springs, larger front calipers (OEM were 2 pot, I went to 6 pot Brembos,) and added an Heavy Duty transmission cooler.

I have no rear sag since adding the air bags, with a weight distro hitch the SUV seems to handle just fine, but I have only moved the trainer from the dealer to my home via surface streets - approx. 20 miles, I have not attempted any highway driving.

I am considering a 3/4 ot 1-ton truck for towing the TT, but in the interim I think I am ok as long as I am not speeding or going too far.

 

[Bigblockyeti]

It sounds like you've check all the important boxes regarding making your tow vehicle more capable, getting it legally certified as such is a whole other ball of wax. A lot of your consideration of a bigger vehicle will depend on your comfort level with the current setup and where you're taking it. Personally I like to keep my money out of depreciating assets (such as a bloated MSRP 3/4 or 1 ton anything) and as much into what I already have. Regarding the weight, it's in your best interest to visit the scales so you know exactly what you're working with instead of something close to the upper limit with a 10% error margin.

 

[mjeds]

It sounds like you've check all the important boxes regarding making your tow vehicle more capable, getting it legally certified as such is a whole other ball of wax. A lot of your consideration of a bigger vehicle will depend on your comfort level with the current setup and where you're taking it. Personally I like to keep my money out of depreciating assets (such as a bloated MSRP 3/4 or 1 ton anything) and as much into what I already have. Regarding the weight, it's in your best interest to visit the scales so you know exactly what you're working with instead of something close to the upper limit with a 10% error margin.

at the moment I am not moving the trailer, I am living in it, so it is not vital to get a bigger vehicle or have it weighed at the moment.

my consideration for a bigger vehicle is two-fold, first my daughter will be needing a vehicle soon, so she will likely get the paid off SUV, and I will purchase a more tow capable vehicle so when I am ready to move the TT out of state, I will have the ability to, but I think that is 1-2 years off into the future.

Based on the current bloated prices and interest rates on new vehicles, I will likely buy used, and pay cash, probably something a few years old. then get a daily driver beater car for fuel savings.

Most new 3/4 - 1-ton trucks are running $65,000 - $110,000, for half that I can get a used 2500/3500 series truck and a little beater vehicle. I am mechanically inclined, was an ASE tech for 20+ years, so not really concerned about cost of repairs of a used vehicle, as long as it is capable.

 

[Lil'Skeet]

here is my question: can you increase your towing capacity with modifications to your vehicle?

my TT comes it at 6,500lbs- ish, the max combined weight for my "SUV" is 6,000lbs. I have used the Haul-Gauge ODBII and App to figure the combined weight and it shows me to be around 6,400lbs and there is a 10% error margin.

When the SUV was completely OEM, the rear sagged about 2.5inches when the trailer was attached. Tongue weight max on OEM is 600lbs, The was trailer is coming in at 690lbs tongue weight, so I moved batteries to the basement (upgrade to lithium). That dropped the tongue weight to 560lbs.

I installed air bags in the rear springs, larger front calipers (OEM were 2 pot, I went to 6 pot Brembos,) and added an Heavy Duty transmission cooler.

I have no rear sag since adding the air bags, with a weight distro hitch the SUV seems to handle just fine, but I have only moved the trainer from the dealer to my home via surface streets - approx. 20 miles, I have not attempted any highway driving.

I am considering a 3/4 ot 1-ton truck for towing the TT, but in the interim I think I am ok as long as I am not speeding or going too far.

Heck if you've done all of that get a good sized transmission cooler and pick and choose when put it in overdrive. I would highly advise a gauge to monitor transmission temperatures. Auto trans are usually the first things to give you problems when towing heavy. Warped rotors are right there too.

 

[mjeds]

Heck if you've done all of that get a good sized transmission cooler and pick and choose when put it in overdrive. I would highly advise a gauge to monitor transmission temperatures. Auto trans are usually the first things to give you problems when towing heavy. Warped rotors are right there too.

already have a heavy duty transmission cooler as stated, and I have a Scan Gauge that monitors the trasmission temp.

pulling a 4,100lbs cargo trailer from Los Angeles, CA to Fort Collins, CO last month to take my kid to college and the Transmission never got over 180° even going up a 9% grade with the trailer fully loaded.

8 speed transmission, I kept it in 5th most of the drive, MPG suffered, only averaged 17mpg that way, where without trailer and using 8th gear (do this drive twice a year) I get 27-30mpg depending on which state I am in, the fuel in CA and AZ sucks compared to the fuel in NM and CO.

 

[Lil'Skeet]

Awesome. You have the 5.3 litre with Active Fuel Management?

 

[mjeds]

Awesome. You have the 5.3 litre with Active Fuel Management?

no, I have a Hyundai Palisade Calligraphy with a 3.8L V6 AWD. with tow package, 6,000 max combined weight with weight distro hitch, 5,000lbs without.

 

[Lil'Skeet]

oh my! I was mistaking you for OP. The Yukon. I should have known when you said 8 speed transmission, but I don't keep up with new vehicles because I have zero interest in them. That is unless you have a V8 Yukon that was getting 30 plus miles to the gallon. Had me ready to trade in my 2002 suburban and try out one of these new fancy rigs. Was even willing to eat the active fuel management until the warranty was up.