Advice on weight trailer to pull safely

[chizzle10]

i have a yukon with max towing of 7900lbs...what is range for trailer weight fully loaded i should buy so i dont kill myself??

 

[Rich W.]

Theres a lot of good info thats been posted in this thread over the last couple days:

Question - Towing

Hi, anyone have any experience towing a 28’ Airstream with a 2023 Land Rover Discovery P360. I am wondering how well it tows?

rvforums.com

 

[Rosy]

Look at your payload capacity first.

 

[FL-JOE]

I just went through this a few months ago when we downsized to our first ever bumper pull.

My TV (tow vehicle) was a new Expedition equipped with the heavy tow package (Timberline). My max tow capacity was 9,300. I knew I didn't want to bump up again that number to we found a 30' travel trailer toy hauler with a dry weight of 5,900.

I upgraded the tires with a higher ply and totally stripped down what we were carrying. As we got on the road heading out of Florida this spring I ran across the scales at Loves. I was 110 pounds over on gross combination weight!!!!

I drained all the fresh water out of my tank that first night and never hauled any again so I was probably right on the number I needed to be, but I was nervous until we returned to our home site.

I should have went with a bumper pull that weighed about 4,900.

 

[Lil'Skeet]

The towing usually isn't the problem. Stopping is what you need to be concerned about. Especially when it's wet. Need weight over your front wheels. Keep up with your electric brakes on your trailer. Good brake controller helps.
Then I'd worry about being able to roast marshmallows over that 4L60e transmission.
I've towed 8k lbs trailers with a V8 1|2 ton as a kid and it was not enjoyable. Even on fairly flat roads.

 

[Lil'Skeet]

People that have done the same and moved up to heavier 3/4 and 1 ton trucks should know what I'm talking about when it feels like your steer tires on the tow vehicle become light. Your vehicle will feel like it wants to wander. Especially on heavily rutted asphalt roads. It's a pretty uneasy feeling at best and I am not the type to get worried.

 

[Bigblockyeti]

Did the OP mention the year of the Yukon? The 4L60E hasn't been offered in quite some time, over 10 years ago the switch was made to a 6 speed auto.

Personally I like to keep the towed weight to no more than 80% of what the vehicle is rated usually*. GCWR & payload (for the tow vehicle and trailer) need to stay below the max for legality, especially if something should go wrong, and for towing comfortably. Another wildcard is trailer frontal area, this is usually specified in the owners manual for the tow vehicle. My truck was an oddball where in 2012 the maximum frontal area listed in the owners manual was 60sqft. Within 3 model years later that number was changed to 30sqft with zero mechanical changes were made to the truck. I can say from experience that frontal area can really work against you. I've pulled a small trailer weighing 6000lb with gravel and the minimal frontal area made pulling easy. Conversely, I've pulled a 3100lb enclosed trailer shaped like a brick that became downright miserable to pull over 55mph.

* Minivans often max out at an artificially low 3500-3600lb towing capacity. Manufacturers realize allowing a tow rating of 5000lb would cause many owners & potential buyers to realize the lack of "S" and the lack of "UV" in their high profit margin SUVs. Minivans can benefit from a bit more rear spring usually but once that's addressed, they are as capable if not moreso than the similar SUV with the same engine and transmission with a higher CG and less cargo room.

 

[mjeds]

here is my question: can you increase your towing capacity with modifications to your vehicle?

my TT comes it at 6,500lbs- ish, the max combined weight for my "SUV" is 6,000lbs. I have used the Haul-Gauge ODBII and App to figure the combined weight and it shows me to be around 6,400lbs and there is a 10% error margin.

When the SUV was completely OEM, the rear sagged about 2.5inches when the trailer was attached. Tongue weight max on OEM is 600lbs, The was trailer is coming in at 690lbs tongue weight, so I moved batteries to the basement (upgrade to lithium). That dropped the tongue weight to 560lbs.

I installed air bags in the rear springs, larger front calipers (OEM were 2 pot, I went to 6 pot Brembos,) and added an Heavy Duty transmission cooler.

I have no rear sag since adding the air bags, with a weight distro hitch the SUV seems to handle just fine, but I have only moved the trainer from the dealer to my home via surface streets - approx. 20 miles, I have not attempted any highway driving.

I am considering a 3/4 ot 1-ton truck for towing the TT, but in the interim I think I am ok as long as I am not speeding or going too far.

 

[Bigblockyeti]

It sounds like you've check all the important boxes regarding making your tow vehicle more capable, getting it legally certified as such is a whole other ball of wax. A lot of your consideration of a bigger vehicle will depend on your comfort level with the current setup and where you're taking it. Personally I like to keep my money out of depreciating assets (such as a bloated MSRP 3/4 or 1 ton anything) and as much into what I already have. Regarding the weight, it's in your best interest to visit the scales so you know exactly what you're working with instead of something close to the upper limit with a 10% error margin.

 

[mjeds]

It sounds like you've check all the important boxes regarding making your tow vehicle more capable, getting it legally certified as such is a whole other ball of wax. A lot of your consideration of a bigger vehicle will depend on your comfort level with the current setup and where you're taking it. Personally I like to keep my money out of depreciating assets (such as a bloated MSRP 3/4 or 1 ton anything) and as much into what I already have. Regarding the weight, it's in your best interest to visit the scales so you know exactly what you're working with instead of something close to the upper limit with a 10% error margin.

at the moment I am not moving the trailer, I am living in it, so it is not vital to get a bigger vehicle or have it weighed at the moment.

my consideration for a bigger vehicle is two-fold, first my daughter will be needing a vehicle soon, so she will likely get the paid off SUV, and I will purchase a more tow capable vehicle so when I am ready to move the TT out of state, I will have the ability to, but I think that is 1-2 years off into the future.

Based on the current bloated prices and interest rates on new vehicles, I will likely buy used, and pay cash, probably something a few years old. then get a daily driver beater car for fuel savings.

Most new 3/4 - 1-ton trucks are running $65,000 - $110,000, for half that I can get a used 2500/3500 series truck and a little beater vehicle. I am mechanically inclined, was an ASE tech for 20+ years, so not really concerned about cost of repairs of a used vehicle, as long as it is capable.

 

[Lil'Skeet]

here is my question: can you increase your towing capacity with modifications to your vehicle?

my TT comes it at 6,500lbs- ish, the max combined weight for my "SUV" is 6,000lbs. I have used the Haul-Gauge ODBII and App to figure the combined weight and it shows me to be around 6,400lbs and there is a 10% error margin.

When the SUV was completely OEM, the rear sagged about 2.5inches when the trailer was attached. Tongue weight max on OEM is 600lbs, The was trailer is coming in at 690lbs tongue weight, so I moved batteries to the basement (upgrade to lithium). That dropped the tongue weight to 560lbs.

I installed air bags in the rear springs, larger front calipers (OEM were 2 pot, I went to 6 pot Brembos,) and added an Heavy Duty transmission cooler.

I have no rear sag since adding the air bags, with a weight distro hitch the SUV seems to handle just fine, but I have only moved the trainer from the dealer to my home via surface streets - approx. 20 miles, I have not attempted any highway driving.

I am considering a 3/4 ot 1-ton truck for towing the TT, but in the interim I think I am ok as long as I am not speeding or going too far.

Heck if you've done all of that get a good sized transmission cooler and pick and choose when put it in overdrive. I would highly advise a gauge to monitor transmission temperatures. Auto trans are usually the first things to give you problems when towing heavy. Warped rotors are right there too.

 

[mjeds]

Heck if you've done all of that get a good sized transmission cooler and pick and choose when put it in overdrive. I would highly advise a gauge to monitor transmission temperatures. Auto trans are usually the first things to give you problems when towing heavy. Warped rotors are right there too.

already have a heavy duty transmission cooler as stated, and I have a Scan Gauge that monitors the trasmission temp.

pulling a 4,100lbs cargo trailer from Los Angeles, CA to Fort Collins, CO last month to take my kid to college and the Transmission never got over 180° even going up a 9% grade with the trailer fully loaded.

8 speed transmission, I kept it in 5th most of the drive, MPG suffered, only averaged 17mpg that way, where without trailer and using 8th gear (do this drive twice a year) I get 27-30mpg depending on which state I am in, the fuel in CA and AZ sucks compared to the fuel in NM and CO.

 

[Lil'Skeet]

Awesome. You have the 5.3 litre with Active Fuel Management?

 

[mjeds]

Awesome. You have the 5.3 litre with Active Fuel Management?

no, I have a Hyundai Palisade Calligraphy with a 3.8L V6 AWD. with tow package, 6,000 max combined weight with weight distro hitch, 5,000lbs without.

 

[Lil'Skeet]

oh my! I was mistaking you for OP. The Yukon. I should have known when you said 8 speed transmission, but I don't keep up with new vehicles because I have zero interest in them. That is unless you have a V8 Yukon that was getting 30 plus miles to the gallon. Had me ready to trade in my 2002 suburban and try out one of these new fancy rigs. Was even willing to eat the active fuel management until the warranty was up.

 

[mjeds]

oh my! I was mistaking you for OP. The Yukon. I should have known when you said 8 speed transmission, but I don't keep up with new vehicles because I have zero interest in them. That is unless you have a V8 Yukon that was getting 30 plus miles to the gallon. Had me ready to trade in my 2002 suburban and try out one of these new fancy rigs. Was even willing to eat the active fuel management until the warranty was up.

I like my vehicle, it suits my needs for now. I've had several Silverado's and even an Avalanche in the past.

when I had to get a family hauler, the Palisade ticked off all my wants and needs at the time. if I had it to do again, knowing my needs now (as they have significantly changed within the past year), I would have likely gone with a Sierra 2500.

it is what it is, my kid needs a vehicle and will likely get the Palisade, and I will upgrade within a year or so.

 

[offroader09]

What Is Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)?​

Gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR), in the simplest of terms, is the maximum amount a vehicle can weigh as it rolls down the road. This number includes the curb weight of the vehicle, all occupants, and all cargo.

What Is Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR)?​

Gross combined vehicle weight rating (GCWR), however, is the maximum weight of a vehicle and its attached trailer. This figure is also inclusive of all passengers and cargo in both the tow vehicle and the trailer. This is also sometimes referred to as gross combined vehicle weight rating (GCVWR).

You have to know what your GVWR is to determine what your GCVWR can be without going over the limit.
If your rated GCVWR on you tow vehicle is 10K and your loaded tow vehicle is 5K you can tow 5K
5k+5k=10k the max GCVWR.

 

[Lil'Skeet]

I like my vehicle, it suits my needs for now. I've had several Silverado's and even an Avalanche in the past.

when I had to get a family hauler, the Palisade ticked off all my wants and needs at the time. if I had it to do again, knowing my needs now (as they have significantly changed within the past year), I would have likely gone with a Sierra 2500.

it is what it is, my kid needs a vehicle and will likely get the Palisade, and I will upgrade within a year or so.

I have a motorcycles that don't get that fuel mileage. That's great for a V6. If I put 4k lbs behind my suburban milage goes from 19-20 mpg to 14-15 mpg. Heck it's like it knows when something is on the hitch, 25% of my mpg goes away.
I know the Ford Eco boosts are making really good power with small V6s. Supposedly have a pretty good tow rating too. 14k lbs with 3.5 ltr. Low 20 mpg not towing.
Oh the "laugh" was at myself for thinking there was a 30+mpg V8.

 

[mjeds]

I have a motorcycles that don't get that fuel mileage. That's great for a V6. If I put 4k lbs behind my suburban milage goes from 19-20 mpg to 14-15 mpg. Heck it's like it knows when something is on the hitch, 25% of my mpg goes away.
I know the Ford Eco boosts are making really good power with small V6s. Supposedly have a pretty good tow rating too. 14k lbs with 3.5 ltr. Low 20 mpg not towing.
Oh the "laugh" was at myself for thinking there was a 30+mpg V8.

I drive a like an old man, usually the right-hand lane hog doing the speed limit or slightly under. I use the HDA (highway drive assist/aka auto-pilot) system a lot, allowing the vehicle to do all the work.

1,200 mile drive from CO to CA last summer I averaged 30.3 mpg in CO, WY, and UT at 65mph, once I crossed into CA and filled up with CA gas, it dropped to 27.2 within a 100 miles. CA gas sucks.

and my motorcycle (2005 Honda VTX1800F2) gets 42mpg..

 

[Lil'Skeet]

I drive a like an old man, usually the right-hand lane hog doing the speed limit or slightly under. I use the HDA (highway drive assist/aka auto-pilot) system a lot, allowing the vehicle to do all the work.

1,200 mile drive from CO to CA last summer I averaged 30.3 mpg in CO, WY, and UT at 65mph, once I crossed into CA and filled up with CA gas, it dropped to 27.2 within a 100 miles. CA gas sucks.

and my motorcycle (2005 Honda VTX1800F2) gets 42mpg..

2009 1700 VMAX. 14-16mpg is my worse one. 4 gallon fuel tank. my best mpg on the hwy was 20mpg, but I really have to behave and it is actually a hard bike to "putt" around on.
But, 215+ horse power at the rear tire makes it worth it.