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Air dump “Cords” (not levelling)…?

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JATOCA

RVF Newbee
Joined
Sep 24, 2024
Messages
4
Location
Indiana
RV Year
2022
RV Make
Coachmen
RV Model
Sportscoach SRS 354QS
RV Length
34
Chassis
Freightliner
Engine
Cummins 340XCS
TOW/TOAD
Combo/Stacker PWC & UTV
Hello all,

Please forgive me if I’m A. In the wrong place, or B. this has been answered at some point.
I’m VERY new to the Class A motorhome world (and forums as a whole). I did post an intro of sorts a week or so ago to hopefully alert those to my ignorance with forums etc.

So while not so much with asking for help/forum etiquette etc…I’m pretty handy universally, and have done everything from electrical (12v-DC or 120v AC), plumbing, cable/sat, wifi, mechanical, etc.
However, since motorhomes are a tad different with respect to the converters and such, I don’t want to dive is without doing some due diligence & understanding.

I have a 2022 Coachmen Sportscoach SRS 354QS DP on Freightliner chassis, 340- Cummins engine, Allison Trans, airbrakes, 4-slides, Onan Gen, with 2335-miles.

My “first” question is with regard to the manual dump cords in the front slide-out generator bay. I know where they are, saw a video on “how” to pull them and that it should be done a couple times per year. I have not found info on what the air is for (brakes, suspension…?), or “when” (eg. when aired up, with/without engine running, should jacks be up or down? Will it cause suspension to drop or air-brakes to lock?
Seems it’s all about bleeding any water from the lines, but again, for what system, and in what scenario is it ok (or not ok) to pull these cords?
To caution on the side of error, I’ll post other questions separately, if unable to find via basic search. Unless, it’s preferred to list multiple questions…(?)
Seems doing so could cause chaos/confusion, so I’ll wait to hear rules/opinions if offered.


Thank you and have a GR8 week to all!
 
Hello all,

Please forgive me if I’m A. In the wrong place, or B. this has been answered at some point.
I’m VERY new to the Class A motorhome world (and forums as a whole). I did post an intro of sorts a week or so ago to hopefully alert those to my ignorance with forums etc.

So while not so much with asking for help/forum etiquette etc…I’m pretty handy universally, and have done everything from electrical (12v-DC or 120v AC), plumbing, cable/sat, wifi, mechanical, etc.
However, since motorhomes are a tad different with respect to the converters and such, I don’t want to dive is without doing some due diligence & understanding.

I have a 2022 Coachmen Sportscoach SRS 354QS DP on Freightliner chassis, 340- Cummins engine, Allison Trans, airbrakes, 4-slides, Onan Gen, with 2335-miles.

My “first” question is with regard to the manual dump cords in the front slide-out generator bay. I know where they are, saw a video on “how” to pull them and that it should be done a couple times per year. I have not found info on what the air is for (brakes, suspension…?), or “when” (eg. when aired up, with/without engine running, should jacks be up or down? Will it cause suspension to drop or air-brakes to lock?
Seems it’s all about bleeding any water from the lines, but again, for what system, and in what scenario is it ok (or not ok) to pull these cords?
To caution on the side of error, I’ll post other questions separately, if unable to find via basic search. Unless, it’s preferred to list multiple questions…(?)
Seems doing so could cause chaos/confusion, so I’ll wait to hear rules/opinions if offered.


Thank you and have a GR8 week to all!
The air is for air brakes and your air suspension. The air does not have anything to do with the jacks.

When air is compressed, it holds less moisture. Your air dryer should catch nearly all of it, but in very humid conditions, or as the dryer is nearing the end of life, more will get past. Typically, blowing down the tanks will have very little moisture and you are getting rid of any accumulation. If the amount of moisture starts getting significant, it indicates either a weak dryer, or potentially another issue.

Although the air system does not have anything to do with the jacks, on most motorhomes the air bags are dumped before the jacks are extended. If your coach has auto level, it will first dump the air before extending the jacks.
 
Thank you, I apparently created confusion by mis-wording the title. Should have said “Air Dump Cords” (Not for levelling).
I guess my main question (now that I know they’re for brakes specifically), is can I pull/dump at ANY time? Or, should it be running, not running, brakes engaged, or?
Not being familiar with the system mechanically, I want to make sure when I pull these cords, I’m not creating any issues if it should or should not being running.

I assume that as long as it’s stationary, brakes on, and wheels chocked as normal, I can pull cords to release any potential moisture with ignition off, as it’s just releasing moisture from cylinders. Again, just don’t want to “ASSume” and regret it. I haven’t found any specific info beyond where the cords are and that they need pulled every once in awhile.

Thanks again.
 
A useful over view

 
Regarding purging compressed air tanks, at the start of a trip I will purge all three tanks, usually Wet tank first, then Primary tank then Secondary tank. Many think that any order is ok but this is my routine. Gray, Then Green, Then Red lanyards.
You may find that the tanks are very low or not pressurized if the RV has sat for a long time. I've been told this is normal leak down. Air up then purge tanks.
Only my Wet tank leaks down, the other hold air for weeks at a time.

If you happen to get water, look into the Air Dyer system. These tanks should normally be dry unless there is unusual circumstance.
 

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