Best way to learn about your Campground's electrical grid

[Buly]

Buly, how involved was it to take apart? That looks like an item that should become subject to periodical PM. I have always wondered how those things worked, now I know.

Ed,
The bad news is that it is a big job to get to the center spool with the contacts.
You have to disconnect the cable from the transfer box.
Disconnect the 12V power to the switch
Unwind all the cable from the reel to remove weight and get access to the middle of the spool
Remove the 4 mounting lag bolts from the floor and take the reel out.
Than open the access panel with the contacts.
Now the really bad news, if it is something like mine: I don’t think they sell replacement parts.
Even if they do, It is another BIGGER job to dismantle the reel to be able to remove the center spool with the 4 brass rings.
Only option is to buy another new reel with the cable (around $700 ) I don’t think they sell the reel alone?

 

[ARD]

Only option is to buy another new reel with the cable (around $700 ) I don’t think they sell the reel alone?

They do sell the reel alone, but for me it was easier to just get the reel with the power cord. Since you have and can put connect the cord to the reel yourself, that is an available option for you if you choose to go the route of having a reel again. If you need me to pull up my contact info from Glendinning, let me know.

 

[ARD]

So, it comes down to my PCS Control Panel is flakey.

Currently, I'm in a situation where my Control Panel displays different voltage readings on L1 and L2, than what is showing on the pedestal. How do you determine if it is indeed your control panel? I'm having a situation where the readings at the pedestal are different from my control panel, thus causing my AGS to turn on, but randomly despite the readings on my Control Panel. I trusted the electrician and didn't check the pedestal myself which I will do if I have another problem. Is there a way to "test" the Control Panel for effectiveness?

 

[Buly]

They do sell the reel alone, but for me it was easier to just get the reel with the power cord. Since you have and can put connect the cord to the reel yourself, that is an available option for you if you choose to go the route of having a reel again. If you need me to pull up my contact info from Glendinning, let me know.

Thank you Rene,
I had other problems with the reel. The Oasis was working only on one heater element, bit will not work on two for a long time. After removing the reel and connecting directly,, it came alive and working fine. I also had different voltages on L1 and L2 that's gone too.
Last year in TX on a rainy day I lost total power. They sent electrician and he proved to me their power was fine. All I had to do is move the reel, and power was restored. Then I decided to take it out and investigate. You know the rest....

 

[Chuggs]

Currently, I'm in a situation where my Control Panel displays different voltage readings on L1 and L2, than what is showing on the pedestal. How do you determine if it is indeed your control panel? I'm having a situation where the readings at the pedestal are different from my control panel, thus causing my AGS to turn on, but randomly despite the readings on my Control Panel. I trusted the electrician and didn't check the pedestal myself which I will do if I have another problem. Is there a way to "test" the Control Panel for effectiveness?

Renee,

It appears my perception of my PCS panel is incorrect. It is not flakey. It is measuring the potential from the Leg to Ground, instead of Leg to Neutral. The panel looks at all these things. That’s how it decides L1<>L2, or L1=L2, Neutral=Ground, L1>Neutral, L1>Ground...and tells you OK.

When I look at my Surge Protector’s display...I see normal voltage. When I plug in one of those Huges Voltage readers...normal. When I check my pole with a voltmeter...normal. Heck my distribution panel...normal. The whole time, I was referencing L1 or L2 to Neutral.

Here’s the rub. If I check Ground against Neutral...I am getting around 9v. This should be zero, or less than .5v at any rate. Now...check my L1 or L2 against Ground... Bingo...screwy display, and very close to what my PCS panel displays.

I know there is a bad Neutral or Ground connection somewhere. I think it’s the campground. I started the generator...and saw 117, 117 on the PCS panel...so my coach isn’t creating this issue when I disconnect. To me...the problem has to be transfer switch outward. Most reasonable explanation...bad shore wiring.

If I get home, plug into my pedastle and still have a potential crossing Neutral and Gound...then I must have a problem. But I am pretty certain that isn’t going to be the case.

I am looking to find something that explains how these things happen. Well, I can kinda understand that. It’s the way it causes one legs voltage to go up and the other to go down that I find unique. Hmmm.., I’m pretty cut and dry simple when it come to electricity. I understand how it works when it’s working correctly...but something a Master electrician would have caught in a second...eluded me. I went for the easy explanation —- PCS panel must be the reason. Wrong.

Before giving up on your PCS panel...I would see if you are getting the same weird voltage at the pole when you measure the Line to Ground...instead of just Line to Neutral as we normally do.

 

[ARD]

Renee,

It appears my perception of my PCS panel is incorrect. It is not flakey. It is measuring the potential from the Leg to Ground, instead of Leg to Neutral. The panel looks at all these things. That’s how it decides L1<>L2, or L1=L2, Neutral=Ground, L1>Neutral, L1>Ground...and tells you OK.

When I look at my Surge Protector’s display...I see normal voltage. When I plug in one of those Huges Voltage readers...normal. When I check my pole with a voltmeter...normal. Heck my distribution panel...normal. The whole time, I was referencing L1 or L2 to Neutral.

Here’s the rub. If I check Ground against Neutral...I am getting around 9v. This should be zero, or less than .5v at any rate. Now...check my L1 or L2 against Ground... Bingo...screwy display, and very close to what my PCS panel displays.

I know there is a bad Neutral or Ground connection somewhere. I think it’s the campground. I started the generator...and saw 117, 117 on the PCS panel...so my coach isn’t creating this issue when I disconnect. To me...the problem has to be transfer switch outward. Most reasonable explanation...bad shore wiring.

If I get home, plug into my pedastle and still have a potential crossing Neutral and Gound...then I must have a problem. But I am pretty certain that isn’t going to be the case.

I am looking to find something that explains how these things happen. Well, I can kinda understand that. It’s the way it causes one legs voltage to go up and the other to go down that I find unique. Hmmm.., I’m pretty cut and dry simple when it come to electricity. I understand how it works when it’s working correctly...but something a Master electrician would have caught in a second...eluded me. I went for the easy explanation —- PCS panel must be the reason. Wrong.

Before giving up on your PCS panel...I would see if you are getting the same weird voltage at the pole when you measure the Line to Ground...instead of just Line to Neutral as we normally do.

Thanks Charlie for taking the time to explain that to me! ? Sure hope to see you and Ronni again one of these days!!!

 

[Chuggs]

Well...we're home...plugged in...and low and behold 121v v. 121v. I guess the guy that wired that pedastle knew what he was doing (humbly pats self on back). I will have to investigate the wierd readings on the camp pedastle, and see if I can't better understand why this happens and which way the electrons are going. Well I know they just wriggle back and forth with alternating current...but that was wierd. When I saw 105v on my PCS panel, I wondered if that would trash my A/C compressor. But the A/C was really getting normal voltage...it just didn't match the PCS display.

Hope yours is as simple as getting back to a properly functioning pedastle.

Ronni and I miss hanging out with you. We hope we get an opportunity soon. Cross your fingers...maybe AA will lower thier age requirement for Early Out package. I'm a year too young right now. If they do...we'll be out Rv'ing and catching up with you all.

 

[ARD]

Hope yours is as simple as getting back to a properly functioning pedastle.

Ronni and I miss hanging out with you. We hope we get an opportunity soon. Cross your fingers...maybe AA will lower thier age requirement for Early Out package. I'm a year too young right now. If they do...we'll be out Rv'ing and catching up with you all.

My fingers, arms, legs ...all the things ARE CROSSED!!!! I need you and Ronni to come out and play!

That is a pretty sight when you see 121v, 121v. I'm so glad all is well. I'm freaked out with 116v, 117v readings. I think 105v would have done me in. I suspect all will be well when I leave here. ?? I'm not sure how my air conditioners are running at 117v and hope I'm not hurting anything. The generator isn't coming on so I'm guessing that is a plus, maybe, hopefully. Keep safe in the Florida Lands. ?

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Brown outs are a fact of life in many metropolitan locations. This is all part of the aging power grid. Surges are caused most of the time with lightning strikes. Surge protectors are a good thing and protect electronics. In no way will they adversely effect the power grid. Computer controlled Auto transformers on the other hand have the power to disrupt power. The professional electrician may use an auto transformer if line power is more than 5% out of norm, ie mains to small for the load, transformer to small or some such problem.

here is the deal. In the old days with a brown out you turned devices with compressors off to avoid burning them up. Low end and older RVs should be treated the same way, no automatic system is standard on many a low end rig, no transfer switches or such.

It seems that High end MH manufacturers have taken upon themselves to provide RVs with built in UPS systems to help their customers deal with this aging grid. They unload your load from an already overloaded grid in your area. This unloading helps keep the number of blackouts lower. It is not good to circumvent the system built into your RV that would otherwise unload the system to keep larger issues from becoming more common.

Ultimately You are paying for the power you use anyhow. If your system is using an inverter, that switches to battery power your system is charging the batteries at non peak times and using that stored power during peak hours. Sound familiar?