Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Friendliest RV Community on the web
  • Modern site for PC's, Phones, Tablets - no 3rd party apps required
  • Ask questions, help others, review campgrounds
  • Get the most out of the RV Lifestyle
  • Invite everyone to RVForums.com and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome

Canned Ham Restoration

Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Modern secure site, no 3rd party apps required
  • Invite your friends and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome
  • Friendliest RV community on the web
Kevin
Just started building the frames (sides) today.
The road side wall had 2 vertical 1x3’s. Once I get the perimeter put together and windows framed, I will add more 1x3’s. I’m with you on standard frame spacing.
Kevin
Did you use 1/2” or 3/4” for floor?
Thinking of using 1/2” marine grade plywood, little pricing but won’t have to worry about rot.
Will try to sand blast and paint Frame this week. Still undecided on axle and /or springs.
Don’t want to break a spring on Alaska trip.

Shape of trailer will mimic a 1955 Tini-Home but guess that’s where similarities will end.
Have no idea what original looked like nor the inside. One step at a time. Thanks for input.
 
Kevin
Just started building the frames (sides) today.
The road side wall had 2 vertical 1x3’s. Once I get the perimeter put together and windows framed, I will add more 1x3’s. I’m with you on standard frame spacing.
My seista had 1x2 construction so I rebuilt with the same. The radius on the ends they used plywood with the radius cut on them and stacked for the proper stud size, I did the same. I used .187 birch ply for the sides and roof with .125 under the alu sheet. I also used .125 for the radius bends. I used alu for all the out sided in 8 or 10 foot by 4 foot sheets and put them together using UHB 3M tape. Fiberglass has advantages over alu in hail storms but my vintage was left unpainted. I think I lost my pics with a hard drive failure but I will keep looking thru my backups.
 
Kevin
Did you use 1/2” or 3/4” for floor?
Thinking of using 1/2” marine grade plywood, little pricing but won’t have to worry about rot.
Will try to sand blast and paint Frame this week. Still undecided on axle and /or springs.
Don’t want to break a spring on Alaska trip.

Shape of trailer will mimic a 1955 Tini-Home but guess that’s where similarities will end.
Have no idea what original looked like nor the inside. One step at a time. Thanks for input.
I used 1/2 marine on the floor, flexed but ply works great anyhow. I used a high end vinyl that had fiber mat for the base to keep cracking at the seams of the wood at bay. No matter what type of ply you use it will rot, it's all in the treatment you use. A little heads up. Treat the topside of the floor. Leave the underside untreated. Use tar paper or Tyvex on underside of insulation. This gives a place for water to drain that reduces the chance of rot. Don't use outside compartments. No matter how convenient they, are most often that is where water comes from.

If you must have a roof vent consider using a small swing out window on the side instead. Nothing inside or out smelled of 1960 other than shape of my rig. But I got a lot of the We had one of those when we were small anyhow. My rig had 720watts of solar on the roof with no way of connecting shore power. It had electric fridge, 110 lighting and outlets. only a 15 gal freshwater holding tank, no others. An entry bench that raised for the porta -potti. and the sink drained via a garden hose.

Inspect the axle and replace the springs. that is my thought.

I build projects the way Saundra does hobbies. When I am through with my projects and am through playing with them I try to sell them for what I have tied up in them. The Siesta sold for a very small profit. There is no money saving with such a project, but it is a fun project for people that must have one.
 
I used 1/2 marine on the floor, flexed but ply works great anyhow. I used a high end vinyl that had fiber mat for the base to keep cracking at the seams of the wood at bay. No matter what type of ply you use it will rot, it's all in the treatment you use. A little heads up. Treat the topside of the floor. Leave the underside untreated. Use tar paper or Tyvex on underside of insulation. This gives a place for water to drain that reduces the chance of rot. Don't use outside compartments. No matter how convenient they, are most often that is where water comes from.

If you must have a roof vent consider using a small swing out window on the side instead. Nothing inside or out smelled of 1960 other than shape of my rig. But I got a lot of the We had one of those when we were small anyhow. My rig had 720watts of solar on the roof with no way of connecting shore power. It had electric fridge, 110 lighting and outlets. only a 15 gal freshwater holding tank, no others. An entry bench that raised for the porta -potti. and the sink drained via a garden hose.

Inspect the axle and replace the springs. that is my thought.

I build projects the way Saundra does hobbies. When I am through with my projects and am through playing with them I try to sell them for what I have tied up in them. The Siesta sold for a very small profit. There is no money saving with such a project, but it is a fun project for people that must have one.
377F0AB9-8008-4F32-81D7-5EF84EA0C259.jpeg31F29104-3A35-4835-BC52-8411E772A4B4.jpeg377F0AB9-8008-4F32-81D7-5EF84EA0C259.jpeg31F29104-3A35-4835-BC52-8411E772A4B4.jpeg
Finished with the sandblasting over the weekend, painted the frame with Rustoleum rusty metal primer. Front was primed and painted grey.
Wheel wells were cleaned up, primed and flanges were rebuilt.
Next up, get frame, springs looked at and wheel bearings replaced.
 

Attachments

  • 2C0A6456-D0BE-4163-85DF-381EE77BF26B.jpeg
    2C0A6456-D0BE-4163-85DF-381EE77BF26B.jpeg
    2.6 MB · Views: 4
Kevin,
Planning on using treated 2x3’s for stringers on frame, then 1/2” marine plywood.
I thought of covering bottom of plywood with (roof) Ice an water shield but you are saying to leave it uncovered, makes since it won’t hold any moisture that way. Tyvex in between plywood and insulation or to cover insulation?.
What did you use to seal top of marine plywood? No outside compartments or roof vent.
 
Kevin,
Planning on using treated 2x3’s for stringers on frame, then 1/2” marine plywood.
I thought of covering bottom of plywood with (roof) Ice an water shield but you are saying to leave it uncovered, makes since it won’t hold any moisture that way. Tyvex in between plywood and insulation or to cover insulation?.
What did you use to seal top of marine plywood? No outside compartments or roof vent.
To cover insulation. this will keep the wood warmer in cold climates so it will stay dryer. I use Tompson. The glue for the vinyl will stick to it and it won't peal.
 

Latest resources

Back
Top