Coachman Inverter Upgrade

[Rich W.]

Hi Rich
I have attached the photo's of the Inverter and the UPS connected to it. Yes, it came with the RV and no manual for it. Not sure where I got 4000W, must have been a typo error.

When the shore power is off, the inverter is still on, but, the AC is down and the AC (flashing) but, the UPS is down. The UPS is plugged into shore power. All 120V in the RV is down.

Is there any way to bypass these and have shore power direct to the RV?

Thanks
Valtyn

Yes it can be by-passed/abandoned and that’s what I would do but I can’t advise you on how to do it other than get a qualified person there to determine what was done to retro this stuff in, undo whatever that is, re-wire it the way it came from the factory, and start over.

Given your semi-permenant status with shore power, all you need is the ability to plug in with a shore cord. You don’t need an inverter, and unless you have frequent power outages or sensitive computer stuff, you don’t need UPS either. The UPS was probably chosen as a boondocking battery bank (and has its own inverter?) and the inverter, as stated above, is to make 120v ac from your house 12v dc batteries. Niether of which you need if you can simply plug in to a pedestal or whatever.

It might be a worthwhile challenge to get this stuff cooperating and working properly if you hadn’t noted that it is over-heating and smells like burning electrical. Your inverter indicates power coming from solar (do you have solar panels?), it shows the inverter is on, and also shows it by-passing. Maybe because of the UPS wired in somewhere along the way? Hard saying from here.

But given that, the above mentioned conditions, and the fact that you don’t seem to have 120v ac coming from the unit(s), this tells me either something is wrong with the equipment or its hooked up wrong. Either way, unless you are good with electricity and a multi-meter, my advice is still to shut it all down and call an electrician.

 

[Val]

Hi Rich
I have switched the inverter off on Monday. But, now battery level indicator has dropped. Does that mean the batteries need to be replaced?

 

[Rich W.]

Your batteries are probably ok. That is an inverter/charger designed to be used with solar panels to maintain a battery bank for the inverter to use to make 120v. So with it off, and apparently no working or connected OE converter, you have nothing charging your batteries.

You really need to find someone local who understands these systems to look at what’s been done/modified/added/deleted/abandoned on your coach, make a plan as to what you want it to do, based on what you consider a reasonable budget, and then carry out that plan. In the mean time you could turn on your inverter/charger and bring your batteries back up.

But since you feel its running too hot and you smell electrical burning, do not leave it unattended, and do not leave it on while you are sleeping. It will take several hours to charge your batteries so plan accordingly. As an alternative maybe you can borrow or buy a portable battery charger to use until you get this resolved.

 

[Val]

Thanks Rich
Very good advice. I have booked an electrician for Wed to check it out.
I have attached photo's of the coach battery level, since the inverter was switched off. Does this mean the Converter is charging the coach batteries or is this the battery power itself?

 

[Rich W.]

I don’t know and can’t specifically tell from those pics, but it does seem to indicate that your batteries are getting low, so maybe the converter is not charging the batteries and that is your current SOC. On the plus side, Gallagher‘s in Eureka Ca is service a special fresh hallibut fish and chips tonight and they have a very nice pilsner on tap.

 

[Val]

Hope you enjoyed the fish and chips.
I switched on the inverter, after a couple of attempts, The reading shows 14.4.
But, the fan came on soon after and running continuously!!
What do I do?

 

[Val]

Use the inverter to charge the battery for almost the whole day. It did not work went back to where it was before as per photos sent earlier. Does that mean the battery is not keeping a charge? Does the Battery need to be replaced?
Question - does one need the battery, if the converter is hooked up to shore power?
Thanks

 

[Rich W.]

Use the inverter to charge the battery for almost the whole day. It did not work went back to where it was before as per photos sent earlier. Does that mean the battery is not keeping a charge? Does the Battery need to be replaced?
Question - does one need the battery, if the converter is hooked up to shore power?
Thanks

If you are hooked to shore power you dont even need a converter unless you have stuff that you need that only runs on 12v. Did you try running on just shore power with both your inverter/charger and UPS off?

I think you said earlier you have an electrician coming this week. Thats a good starting point. If you end up abandoning your inverter and UPS and want to restore the coach in a more or less OE condition, discard the aftermarket stuff, install a new converter, and live off shore power.

There are lots of converter options available but I found Randy at Best Converter reliable and easy to work with. Go to BestConverter - Converters, Inverters, Electrical Supplies, Electronics and click “Ask Randy” at the top left corner of the screen.

 

[Rich W.]

Hope you enjoyed the fish and chips.
I switched on the inverter, after a couple of attempts, The reading shows 14.4.
But, the fan came on soon after and running continuously!!
What do I do?

The fan running would be normal because the unit is doing work - charging your batteries. 14.4v would indicate bulk charging. But if it smells like an electrical fire don’t use it.

Charging info:

Battery charging - what do bulk absorption and float mean? - Leading Edge Turbines & Power Solutions

As batteries are charged they go through 3 different states - bulk absorption and float. Here's what is happening at each of these stages and a quick overvi

www.leadingedgepower.com

 

[Val]

I don't have anything that only runs on 12V, the fridge control panel and the lights does that count?

I have the the inverter off, but, the UPS cannot, as it is somehow hooked up to the 120V and when its off/unplugged there is no power in the RV.

Thanks for the charging info.

 

[Rich W.]

Yes, I think you need 12v to run your fridge on propane. It will probably also run on 120v in which case you wouldnt need 12v, but I don’t know enough about your set-up or what type of fridge you have.

A converter/charger will do the job supplying 12v as needed, and it will keep your house batteries topped up. A good converter/charger will also charge at all three levels (bulk, absorb, and float) and will not boil your batteries. So if you go that route be choosey.

I have no idea how your UPS is wired but from what you’ve said here, I’d eliminate that and the solar/inverter/charger. Given your situation as full time/stationary, all you need is shore power and a converter, and maybe not even a converter.

The rest is a creation by a previous owner and it may have suited his/her purposes, but its causing you unnecessary problems and you don’t need it so I would have it removed, have the electrical supply returned to OE status, and live worry free about all this.

 

[Val]

Thanks Rich
Much appreciated.

 

[Val]

The fridge, is 3 way, gas,120V and 12V. (don't use the gas at all). The 12V, I presume is for the Dometic fridge control panel? What about the cabin lights would that need the battery?

The Power Converter Panel is in the corridor/passage of the RV, direct oppersite the fridge. Would the Converter be somewhere there located?

 

[Rich W.]

Some Rv refrigerators actually run on 12v; most are either propane with 12v controls or 120v. Yours could be either but since you aren't using propane, you wouldnt need 12v for that. But you will for lights, so a conventional converter and house battery bank is what you’ll need. The converter is typically built in to the electrical panel at the bottom. If you have a vent at the bottom of your electical panel, there is probably a converter/charger behind it. It might even still be there, in good condition, but abandoned in favor of the current set up. If thats the case, your electrician (or well qualified fix-it person) could put it back to the OE configuration fairly easily and inexpensively. A picture of your electrical panel (breakers and fuses) would help. Also what model coach do you have? Something like a M-3610?

 

[Val]

Hi
I have attached the photos of the converter. Not sure what the other power board is?
I see the charger is off and there is writing to say to leave it off?. Not sure why that is???

I have a 2003 Ford Coachman Rendezvous (photo attached)