Fridge

[Scotttkd2]

What you need is the wattage specs, that is what you will add up (and all other electrical loads wattage requirements) to calculate against the batteries wattage capacity.

 

[Mhump]

It going to depend on how many batteries you have and what kind. I am trying to figure this out also. I am testing batteries. I will let you know.

 

[TheLooks]

You don't need to test many batteries. It is all in the AH rating and the discharge capacity. Nothing compares to LiPo........but $$$$$

 

[Kevin D Pem]

What no one has yet to mention is how well insulated the fridge is. I use house or apartment fridges. When comparing them the greatest requirement in my book is the annual cost number. Why you ask? The amount of time the fridge runs is the greatest indicator of how long the system can handle the load (insulation is the key). You can always have a large inverter that handles the compressor load! Not always able to add insulation. Look for the EPA comparison guide.

 

[TheLooks]

It is hard to beat the absorption fridges and because they are weak on cooling, they have a lot of insulation. People don't like them because they don't work well in the heat. Same as heat pumps don't work well in the cold. So far, I prefer them. The jury is still out on the 12 v units and they have been experiencing problems with the compressors. I will let someone else be the guinea pig. Putting residential fridges in requires modifications many are not capable of and many don't want to pay for. Then you are stuck with 120v only and it is inefficient to convert to 12v and then convert back to 120v for the times you are not plugged in to shore power or generator. It is not a one size fits all and each person must find their niche. Hard to get just one answer from a multitude of people.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

It is hard to beat the absorption fridges and because they are weak on cooling, they have a lot of insulation. People don't like them because they don't work well in the heat. Same as heat pumps don't work well in the cold. So far, I prefer them. The jury is still out on the 12 v units and they have been experiencing problems with the compressors. I will let someone else be the guinea pig. Putting residential fridges in requires modifications many are not capable of and many don't want to pay for. Then you are stuck with 120v only and it is inefficient to convert to 12v and then convert back to 120v for the times you are not plugged in to shore power or generator. It is not a one size fits all and each person must find their niche. Hard to get just one answer from a multitude of people.

It is hard to get one opinion! Mine varies from yours.
Reliable operation is the number one reason to buy one over the other.

I like my ice-cream frozen, and my milk cold! I want it that way even with summer temperatures. For that reason I find adsorption or absorption refrigeration unreliable, at best. I was given a 12v compressor fridge and put it to the test by running it outside in the shade! The conclusion of the experiment was to give it to someone with a van.
Furthermore the COP of propane refrigeration is so low that anything is better. I did the research!

My fridge fit in the hole of the old propane box and simply strapped I place. The choice was made based on cost, however. Replacement cost of original VS. 110vac fridge including the support infrastructure (solar controller, panels, inverter, and battery) needed to keep the 110 unit going at all times. The propane unit lost the price war by a whopping 400USD. And solar can be purchased at a fraction of what I paid at the time. With the benefits of 110 power for the rig.

 

[TheLooks]

It is hard to get one opinion! Mine varies from yours.
Reliable operation is the number one reason to buy one over the other.

I like my ice-cream frozen, and my milk cold! I want it that way even with summer temperatures. For that reason I find adsorption or absorption refrigeration unreliable, at best. I was given a 12v compressor fridge and put it to the test by running it outside in the shade! The conclusion of the experiment was to give it to someone with a van.
Furthermore the COP of propane refrigeration is so low that anything is better. I did the research!

My fridge fit in the hole of the old propane box and simply strapped I place. The choice was made based on cost, however. Replacement cost of original VS. 110vac fridge including the support infrastructure (solar controller, panels, inverter, and battery) needed to keep the 110 unit going at all times. The propane unit lost the price war by a whopping 400USD. And solar can be purchased at a fraction of what I paid at the time. With the benefits of 110 power for the rig.

I don't disagree, but I have access to a cabinet shop and have worked with many forms of carpentry as a living my whole life. I can install and trim things out to a very professional level. Many people that come into forums and ask about the best way still have an idea what they want it to look like after. I have seen some real cobbled up work. Not to say at all that yours is, but few people have the skills. The best fridge may not be the one that works the best when the whole package is considered.