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Fridge

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HDRider1960

RVF Regular
Joined
Nov 23, 2022
Messages
7
How long with the electric refrigerator on a Leprechaun 270QB & Freelander 27QB run without shore power or the generator?

I suspect other Coachmen models have an electric fridge too, so maybe you can relate your experience if you don't have a Leprechaun 270QB & Freelander 27QB.

Thanks
 
I do not know the specs of your particular rig, but a lot of variables in that question. Is the fridge 12v and propane, or 120v, amp hour capacity of the battery pack in question, battery condition, other loads on the batteries/inverter, temp etc. Your better off (my opinion) looking up the wattage requirments of the fridge in question (your manual should have that info) and calculate the load from there. If no other loads you have your answer, each additional load will draw down the batteries based on its wattage requirements alongside the fridge power consumption. There are a bunch of wattage calculators on line (google) you can feed the info into once you locate it and know the specs on your battery capacity.
 
Do you mean how long can an absorption refrigerator run on battery power rather than propane?
 
A residential refrigerator will require a huge amount of power. Running on battery would last very long but of course it would depend on how many batteries and the type. I don’t think it was intended to be run on batteries for off grid use
 
The Leprechaun 270QB & Freelander 27QB have a 12V Double Door Full Size Refrigerator. It does not use propane
If you truly mean 12v, you should have a manual with specs or can look up the make model and get the electrical specs to calculate with. Cant say I have ever seen a full size 12volt fridge, but I am happy to be wrong on that.....there is always something new in the RV industry!
 
I can say our 120v full size residential fridge does not even work without the generator or shore power.
 
Interesting.....my residential runs off inverter all day as we are traveling, I can even microwave without generator while travelling, 6-6volt battery bank. In defference to OP, I have not tried to boondock with battery power only, my wife wouldnt know what to do without AC running!
 
We can run our residential fridge for 3+ days without shore/generator power.
Driving down the road our batteries are charged by the engine so the fridge is not a concern.
Need to check if your system is setup to charge batteries while driving.
 
If you truly mean 12v, you should have a manual with specs or can look up the make model and get the electrical specs to calculate with. Cant say I have ever seen a full size 12volt fridge, but I am happy to be wrong on that.....there is always something new in the RV industry!
I got that off the specs. I don't have the RV. I am considering it and have questions.
 
What you need is the wattage specs, that is what you will add up (and all other electrical loads wattage requirements) to calculate against the batteries wattage capacity.
 
It going to depend on how many batteries you have and what kind. I am trying to figure this out also. I am testing batteries. I will let you know.
 
You don't need to test many batteries. It is all in the AH rating and the discharge capacity. Nothing compares to LiPo........but $$$$$
 
What no one has yet to mention is how well insulated the fridge is. I use house or apartment fridges. When comparing them the greatest requirement in my book is the annual cost number. Why you ask? The amount of time the fridge runs is the greatest indicator of how long the system can handle the load (insulation is the key). You can always have a large inverter that handles the compressor load! Not always able to add insulation. Look for the EPA comparison guide.
 
It is hard to beat the absorption fridges and because they are weak on cooling, they have a lot of insulation. People don't like them because they don't work well in the heat. Same as heat pumps don't work well in the cold. So far, I prefer them. The jury is still out on the 12 v units and they have been experiencing problems with the compressors. I will let someone else be the guinea pig. Putting residential fridges in requires modifications many are not capable of and many don't want to pay for. Then you are stuck with 120v only and it is inefficient to convert to 12v and then convert back to 120v for the times you are not plugged in to shore power or generator. It is not a one size fits all and each person must find their niche. Hard to get just one answer from a multitude of people.
 
It is hard to beat the absorption fridges and because they are weak on cooling, they have a lot of insulation. People don't like them because they don't work well in the heat. Same as heat pumps don't work well in the cold. So far, I prefer them. The jury is still out on the 12 v units and they have been experiencing problems with the compressors. I will let someone else be the guinea pig. Putting residential fridges in requires modifications many are not capable of and many don't want to pay for. Then you are stuck with 120v only and it is inefficient to convert to 12v and then convert back to 120v for the times you are not plugged in to shore power or generator. It is not a one size fits all and each person must find their niche. Hard to get just one answer from a multitude of people.
It is hard to get one opinion! Mine varies from yours.
Reliable operation is the number one reason to buy one over the other.

I like my ice-cream frozen, and my milk cold! I want it that way even with summer temperatures. For that reason I find adsorption or absorption refrigeration unreliable, at best. I was given a 12v compressor fridge and put it to the test by running it outside in the shade! The conclusion of the experiment was to give it to someone with a van.
Furthermore the COP of propane refrigeration is so low that anything is better. I did the research!

My fridge fit in the hole of the old propane box and simply strapped I place. The choice was made based on cost, however. Replacement cost of original VS. 110vac fridge including the support infrastructure (solar controller, panels, inverter, and battery) needed to keep the 110 unit going at all times. The propane unit lost the price war by a whopping 400USD. And solar can be purchased at a fraction of what I paid at the time. With the benefits of 110 power for the rig.
 
It is hard to get one opinion! Mine varies from yours.
Reliable operation is the number one reason to buy one over the other.

I like my ice-cream frozen, and my milk cold! I want it that way even with summer temperatures. For that reason I find adsorption or absorption refrigeration unreliable, at best. I was given a 12v compressor fridge and put it to the test by running it outside in the shade! The conclusion of the experiment was to give it to someone with a van.
Furthermore the COP of propane refrigeration is so low that anything is better. I did the research!

My fridge fit in the hole of the old propane box and simply strapped I place. The choice was made based on cost, however. Replacement cost of original VS. 110vac fridge including the support infrastructure (solar controller, panels, inverter, and battery) needed to keep the 110 unit going at all times. The propane unit lost the price war by a whopping 400USD. And solar can be purchased at a fraction of what I paid at the time. With the benefits of 110 power for the rig.
I don't disagree, but I have access to a cabinet shop and have worked with many forms of carpentry as a living my whole life. I can install and trim things out to a very professional level. Many people that come into forums and ask about the best way still have an idea what they want it to look like after. I have seen some real cobbled up work. Not to say at all that yours is, but few people have the skills. The best fridge may not be the one that works the best when the whole package is considered.
 

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