Gate Valve Replacement Inside an Insulated Compartment

[gibsito]

While getting ready to take my old 1994 Alpenlite 29RK DL 5th wheel on the road, I decided to replace the gate valves on the black and main gray tanks. Both of them have been very difficult to operate for years, and every time I need to dump those tanks I worry that I'm going to bend the narrow rods that the handles are mounted on. But, to my astonishment, it turns out that both of those gate valves are in extremely difficult-to-get-to locations within the insulated compartment that surrounds those two tanks. I see one smallish access door but it is not big enough, nor located well enough, to be of much use in accessing these gate valves. I can see two of the four bolts on the black tank gate valve, but can't see the gray tank gate valve at all. It amazes me that these RV manufacturers would put out a product with components that are inaccessible for maintenance work. I was wondering if anyone else has run into this problem.

At this point I'm thinking I am going to have to cut a big hole in the floor of the insulated compartment in order to replace these valves.

 

[team bradfield]

just drop the chloroplast , some are screw, most are nailed, they will come out, my galley tanks were always just ahead or the tandems, my last rig had the 6 point level system so I could raise it enough to sit up under it and replace the valves, then get some help or use a floor jack and 2 x 4's and raise the chloroplast back up and use self tappers with fender washers to replace.

 

[gibsito]

just drop the chloroplast , some are screw, most are nailed, they will come out, my galley tanks were always just ahead or the tandems, my last rig had the 6 point level system so I could raise it enough to sit up under it and replace the valves, then get some help or use a floor jack and 2 x 4's and raise the chloroplast back up and use self tappers with fender washers to replace.

Too late. I already cut an access hole in it. Everything is accessible now. This is an old rig though and the compartment is made of coated 1" thick styrofoam in a 1-by wood frame. It's strange though, the galley gray water tank insulated compartment (rear of the rig), has a factory access hole right where it should be, below the dump valve. And although there's an identical one for the bathroom/shower gray tank and black tank, it is located about 2-feet away from those valves which makes it practically worthless. Anyway, I just need to cover that hole with something after I'm done replacing the valves. And next time this happens it will be a much easier job.

 

[AbdRahim]

Don’t forget to lubricate the new ones. Sevearltimes a year I thoroughly clean the tsnks. Then I attach a long piece of clear rubber tubing to the straw of WD40 SILICONE. I push the tube up to the gate, and spray generously, twisting the tube to try to lubricate the entire gate. Then I open the gate, push the tube just beyond and again spray liberally. After this I ermove the tube and work the gate open and closed until it moves easily. This works great and lasts for quite a while.

Periodic use of the Thetford Drain Valve Lubricant also helps.

 

[gibsito]

Don’t forget to lubricate the new ones. Sevearltimes a year I thoroughly clean the tsnks. Then I attach a long piece of clear rubber tubing to the straw of WD40 SILICONE. I push the tube up to the gate, and spray generously, twisting the tube to try to lubricate the entire gate. Then I open the gate, push the tube just beyond and again spray liberally. After this I ermove the tube and work the gate open and closed until it moves easily. This works great and lasts for quite a while.

Periodic use of the Thetford Drain Valve Lubricant also helps.

Good advice, thank you. I have some Silicone brake lube and imagine that would do the trick. It's safe to use on rubber. I'll read the tube to be sure though.