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Getting hot water while in RV Park

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22 New Aire
Is it necessary to use generator to get hot water when plugged into 50a shore power?
Hi Jerry, you've posted this in the Newell Owners group and might not get all the exposure needed in future posts.

I'll flag this to have the Mods move it to the general (plumbing) section.

As AbdRahim states, though, NO...you do NOT need the Generator to power your heater. Remember, the OASIS has two heating sources; ELECTRIC (220V) and DIESEL. So, if you do NOT have ANY source of 110/220v, then you simply run it on the DIESEL function.
 
Remember, the OASIS has two heating sources; ELECTRIC (220V) and DIESEL. So, if you do NOT have ANY source of 110/220v, then you simply run it on the DIESEL function.
Minor note…. Oasis electric is 120 v….
 
Just barely - you can only have 1 electric water/heat element on and 1 roof AC running at the same time as even a good 30A breaker will give up if you try both electric elements and any other significant load... (inverter charging, 2nd AC, floor heat...). A good breaker should hold ~120% overload (IE 36A) for a significant time but will trip when the load is >150% (45A) for several minutes and at 200% will trip almost at once. that is if the breaker on the pedestal is good. Most get "soft" over time being tortured by those RV people who overload them.... :ROFLMAO:
 
So Steve, you design breakers? Your an electrical engineer? An electrician?

Just wondering where you got your information!!!
 
Depending on the curve rating of each type of circuit breaker (and there are many curve types) the NEC code specifies the constant load on any circuit protection device and related wiring to not exceed 80% of the protection device value. That means that a 30A breaker is normally not allowed to exceed 24A (30-20%=24A) and a 50A breaker should not have greater than 40A on each leg (which we all know we exceed). A healthy 30A breaker will hold 30A for a period that is between infinity and a specified period depending on the curve, impulse, heat, heat build up... I can go on and on.
The point here is that the NEC (National Electrical Code - pick a year, always changes) does define the behaviors of the breakers depending on type, thermal trip characteristics, overload character trip by type. Sample of 5 curves attached.

And in answer to your 3 questions - well yes to some and no to others.


Screenshot 2024-06-04 at 6.02.01 PM.png
 
My issue was during our first trip. When we got to the RV Park and set everything up, the water was hot. That evening the water temp was barely warm, and stayed that way.

I read in the owners manual something about the electric water heaters could not keep the water hot by themselves ( if you needed hot water, the generator must be used).

I was plugged into 50a shore power.
 
So Steve, you design breakers? Your an electrical engineer? An electrician?

Just wondering where you got your information!!!
I don't know where he got his info but all the Oasis systems I have seen are 110V and from ITR.
To supplement burner output, every OASIS heater has 120VAC electric elements that provide an additional 5,000 to 10,000 BTU to each system, depending on configuration.
I checked load on my unit and with both on they drew 26 amps. So if on 30 amp shore power I might use one and leave the burner on to take up any extra load.
 

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