I'm from a different school. The side of the tracks I guess no one wants to admitted they grew up on.
But one thing I know. I don't have to throw money around to be safe.
Curt makes a good product. But the weak link is what will give you problems. Let me explain.
A 10000# ball carier will safely tow 10000# trailer. If the receiver will only tow 7000# . If the ball will only pull 7500# the setup will only pull 7000#. The ball carier will not have a problem hauling 7000# even if it was designed for 10000#.
Although the spring bars maybe oversized they can be adjusted for the trailer weight you tow with little change in handling.
I would buy a hitch designed for 10000# the spring bars that come with it will likely work well for whatever you pull. However if you need lower rated springs you can buy them later without replacing the entire hitch. Oh heck, not that I would, I did buy a 10000# hitch. Guess what, the spring bars work just fine with my cargo trailer that weights in under 5000#. The key to setting up your rig is to keep everything parallel to the ground, it's not rocket science, more like common sense.
So to expound on what I said:
From tow vehicle to the ball all equipment should be designed for the maximum you want to tow ,EVER!
You should not ask your tow vehicle to tow for long periods of time more than 80% of the manufacturers tow capacity (10000 maximum =8000 maximum for any distance).
Tip:
If you buy a ball from Uhaul they will install the ball so you will not have to buy a wrench. They will not install a ball that has to low a rating. They will get the bolt tight so it won't come loose.
I have never seen a travel trailer with anything less than a 2 5/16 ball so even the ball can be reused between camping trips.