No water pressure when connected to city water.

[carlos6466]

I have a 2020 Coleman Lantern Edition 295QB. Since I bought it, I have very little water pressure when connected to city water via the water inlet on the side of the trailer. There is plenty of water pressure when using the water pump.

I removed and replaced the one way valves (back-flow valves) on the end of the inlets as one was defective yet water still is only a trickle.

I do not have a pressure regulator on in the inlet or water supply so there is not a defect there. I've tested the water pressure and it is at 80 psi.

I connected the water to a different intake source, in this case, the water hot water heater, and the water flowed normally without the water pump on.

The trailer has a sealed (winterized) bottom, so I can't look underneath to see if the water line is damaged or crushed. I suspect it is in the floor which I don't want to tear up.

I could create a new water intake point but that opens up the trailer to another point of failure not to mention that shouldn't be something that I have to do.

I've drained all the water and blew all the water out, a flush if you will, and that didn't do anything.

The aerators at the sinks and the hose washer with debris filter are not restricted. I do not have a water filter system installed in the water line.

The hot water heater is connected correctly.

I will not go to the dealer because of ongoing bad experiences so everything I do will have to be done by myself. I also wouldn't want them tearing up the floor. I am a full-time RV-er so giving up the trailer for any length of time isn't practical for me. I can do all the work as this is my second trailer. The first I had full-time for ten years.

I suspect that something is in the PEX line but I don't think that removing and replacing it is possible without heavy and significant damage to the trailer.

So, has anyone had this problem? Any fixes? Anything else I could check? Does anyone know if Coleman installed a pressure reducer inline with the intake connection point that could have malfunctioned and I could remove?

Thanks greatly for any help or advice.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

Obviously, you have some sort of obstruction in the water system. Is it possible that there is a valve in the water system that you haven't yet discovered? Or, a check valve (backflow preventer) installed backwards?

Since you aren't using a pressure regulator and have measured your current water pressure at 80 PSI, I'm wondering if high pressure may have damaged something in your water system.

TJ

 

[Kevin D Pem]

After looking at the brochure for your rig my guess is all the stuff you need to inspect is under the kitchen counter.
Here is a clue:
the back pressure valve, you know the one used to keep water from spewing out the hose pickup when the pump is running is likely stuck. If they used a valve to shut off the connection( highly unlikely) it is not open all the way. You should have two such valves one that is after the pump to keep shore connection pressure from making its way to the holding tank and one for the outside connection. Of course I am looking at pics in a brochure so location may be wrong.

 

[carlos6466]

Obviously, you have some sort of obstruction in the water system. Is it possible that there is a valve in the water system that you haven't yet discovered? Or, a check valve (backflow preventer) installed backwards?

Since you aren't using a pressure regulator and have measured your current water pressure at 80 PSI, I'm wondering if high pressure may have damaged something in your water system.

TJ

I don't think the pressure has damaged anything as there's no delicate device connected to those hoses. Additionally, PEX is rated well above 80 psi for cold water... if a backflow preventer was installed in the line in a place that can never be accessed, the failure rate of those valves would be pissing a whole mess of people off.

 

[carlos6466]

After looking at the brochure for your rig my guess is all the stuff you need to inspect is under the kitchen counter.
Here is a clue:
the back pressure valve, you know the one used to keep water from spewing out the hose pickup when the pump is running is likely stuck. If they used a valve to shut off the connection( highly unlikely) it is not open all the way. You should have two such valves one that is after the pump to keep shore connection pressure from making its way to the holding tank and one for the outside connection. Of course I am looking at pics in a brochure so location may be wrong.

Would this back pressure valve be a component within the waterpump or just inline with the hoses going up to it?

 

[carlos6466]

After looking at the brochure for your rig my guess is all the stuff you need to inspect is under the kitchen counter.
Here is a clue:
the back pressure valve, you know the one used to keep water from spewing out the hose pickup when the pump is running is likely stuck. If they used a valve to shut off the connection( highly unlikely) it is not open all the way. You should have two such valves one that is after the pump to keep shore connection pressure from making its way to the holding tank and one for the outside connection. Of course I am looking at pics in a brochure so location may be wrong.

I just checked the water pump and all lines going to and from it. There isn't any attached parts that could be considered a check valve.

 

[AbdRahim]

What is the water pressure at the water source when you open a faucet?

I have this problem as well on a brand new coach. The washer barely has enough water pressure to fully empty the water softener compartment and the stream at the kitchen sink is pencil thin, with the faucet fully open. In my case the park water is at 60 psi. When I open a faucet it drops to 20 psi. One park dropped to 17 psi. All works fine on the water pump.

 

[carlos6466]

I didn't test it after opening it but it is very little... pencil thickness at most.

 

[carlos6466]

I found a work around but will have to build it...

Connect the water inlet to the lowest point water line via fresh water hose or PEX. The came out as it was suppose to. I think the garden will be easier as PEX doesn't want to lay down...

I might build a PVC pipe version as well.

I am convinced there is a blockage!

 

[carlos6466]

The part that really passes me off is when I did the "walk through final inspection" this never would have been caught as they never connected to city water.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

Just a wild, crazy thought here, but could it be the supply hose you are using has some kind of blockage in it? Have you tried swapping out the hose?

TJ

 

[carlos6466]

Just a wild, crazy thought here, but could it be the supply hose you are using as some kind of blockage in it? Have you tried swapping out the hose?

TJ

The water comes out full force... no blockage in supply line.

 

[Gronk]

Just wondering, are you sure that the check valve is installed with the flow the correct direction? If you installed the new one the same as the original, there is a possibility that it was installed backwards during construction.

 

[carlos6466]

The new one does not have a check valve

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

The new one does not have a check valve

I'm a little confused here. In your initial post, you said "I removed and replaced the one way valves (back-flow valves) on the end of the inlets as one was defective yet water still is only a trickle." If one or both of those replacements was installed backwards (what I think @Gronk is getting at), it would stop water flowing in. It is all-too-easy to get those things in backwards; been there and done that even when I was being really careful.

TJ

 

[Kevin D Pem]

I just checked the water pump and all lines going to and from it. There isn't any attached parts that could be considered a check valve.

the back flow valve is in the water connection then. You should be able to remove it from the outside.

 

[carlos6466]

I'm a little confused here. In your initial post, you said "I removed and replaced the one way valves (back-flow valves) on the end of the inlets as one was defective yet water still is only a trickle." If one or both of those replacements was installed backwards (what I think @Gronk is getting at), it would stop water flowing in. It is all-too-easy to get those things in backwards; been there and done that even when I was being really careful.

TJ

The new unit I replaced did not have a back-flow preventer. The old one did... So, just in case, I ordered the replacement without that internal mechanism.

Also, the city water fill hardware has female garden hose on one side and male 1/2" NPT on the other. It can only go in one direction.

While I still would love to fix this issue, I've decided to connect the water to the lowest-point drain which is basically a "T" along the PEX tubing so I can have use of city water at an adequate pressure.

I've also come to the conclusion that I can't snake a wire through the tubing to try to break up the thing that could be causing a blockage as there are too many 90° bends and turns.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

I'm afraid I have run out of ideas. Good luck in solving the problem.

TJ