Potential TOAD Setup THOR ARIA 40'and 2021 JEEP Wrangler High Altitude

[Cardiff RV]

I wanted to see If I could get some thought from everyone on this setup.

Working with Etrailer and here are their suggestions. Please chime in if you like or have suggestions or preferences.

Anything you guys like better or would change?

Main Components...

Roadmaster Direct-Connect Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms​

Roadmaster Nighthawk All Terrain, Non-Binding Tow Bar w/ LED Lights - RV Mount - 8K​

Demco Air Force One Supplemental Braking System w/ Wireless Coachlink - Air Brakes - Proportional​

Extras I think I need​

Roadmaster Battery Charge Line Kit for Towed Vehicles​

Roadmaster Base Plate Pins w/ Oversize Grip - 3/4" Diameter - Qty 2​

RoadMaster 6-Wire Trailer Connector - Vehicle End​

Roadmaster Universal Hy-Power Diode Wiring Kit​

RoadMaster 68" Single Hook, Coiled Safety Cables - 6,000 lbs​

Misc

Curt Dual Hitch Extender for 2" Trailer Hitches - 8" Extension (For Bike Rack)​

Full parts list with multiple options.

https://www.etrailer.com/qs/293688NH

https://www.etrailer.com/qs/2937377U

Thanks!

 

[MapNerd]

Have towed with most of these items and it is a good, problem free setup.

I do not think you need the coiled safety cables. With the Roadmaster Nighthawk Towbar, the safety cables are actually routed through enclosed channels in the tower, rendering the benefits of a coiled cable practically pointless. To be clear, you do need safety cables, I'm just saying coiled cables might not be any better than non coiled and it might save a few dollars to get regular non-coiled cables.

Also, those pins are a major pain in the butt. Get these instead. The larger handles makes it very easy to pull them out when you are parked at an angle or uneven surface. You can still get em out but its a bit of a bear unless you have pins like these that give you a good handle to grab them with.

I can't speak to whether or not you need a charge line for your vehicle. I suspect not but your owners manual is the gospel. It certainly can't hurt.
You can skip the dual hitch extender if you want to just put the bikes on the back of your jeep.
I can't recommend the Demco AFO and Roadmaster Nighthawk towbar highly enough. Roadmaster and Demco both make excellent products. I think you'll be very happy with them.

If you go with the AirForce One system, make sure you get an extra air hose because if you're not careful, the connection can pop loose and your air hose gets dragged, at which point the whole setup is useless because you can't reconnect the damaged air hose coupling and get air into your towed vehicle's AFO system. Replacement male and female quick connect couplings can't hurt either, just as a backup in case you drag your primary and secondary air hose. At least then, you can make a field repair and get on your way. Always give that air hose a couple of firm tugs once you connect, on both ends to make sure the connection is good. I yank on both ends at hookup and check em again at every fuel stop.

 

[Cardiff RV]

This is a great reply thank you. So first thing...
Are you saying get rid of these https://www.etrailer.com/tv-Demo-Roadmaster-Accessories-and-Parts-RM-910029.aspx and replace them with https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Roadmaster/RM-910049.html just want to make sure its the right thing I'm swapping?

Looking at the Saftey Cables It seems like the non-coiled are about the same cost give or take. Seems coiled might help make up some slack if there is any? How do you know how long you need them to be, I see them anywhere from 55" to 80" https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Safety_Cables.aspx

Thanks!

 

[MapNerd]

Are you saying get rid of these https://www.etrailer.com/tv-Demo-Roadmaster-Accessories-and-Parts-RM-910029.aspx and replace them with https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Roadmaster/RM-910049.html just want to make sure its the right thing I'm swapping?

Yes. Trust me, you will thank yourself the first time you need to unhook at an angle or when the tow vehicle isn’t level with the RV. Having those handles is a game changer and it happens more often than you’d think. Also, give em a squirt of Wd-40 or silicone spray prior to hookup. Makes unhooking way easier, but a bit dirtier.

Looking at the Saftey Cables It seems like the non-coiled are about the same cost give or take. Seems coiled might help make up some slack if there is any? How do you know how long you need them to be, I see them anywhere from 55" to 80" https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Safety_Cables.aspx

That’s probably true. I did not look to see if there was a price difference. If it’s negligible than I would also go with coiled. It won’t hurt anything. If you can wait til morning i’ll measure mine and let you know how long they are.

 

[Cardiff RV]

Yes. Trust me, you will thank yourself the first time you need to unhook at an angle or when the tow vehicle isn’t level with the RV. Having those handles is a game changer and it happens more often than you’d think. Also, give em a squirt of Wd-40 or silicone spray prior to hookup. Makes unhooking way easier, but a bit dirtier.


That’s probably true. I did not look to see if there was a price difference. If it’s negligible than I would also go with coiled. It won’t hurt anything. If you can wait til morning i’ll measure mine and let you know how long they are.

Thanks so much! Yes, when you get a chance place let me know. Just wondering how one goes about how to figure out the proper length you would want... Thanks MapNerd

 

[MapNerd]

Just wondering how one goes about how to figure out the proper length you would want...

Honestly, you hope they never get used. Their only purpose is to keep your tow vehicle loosely tracking your RV in the event of a towbar failure or accident while your Demco AFO applies the brakes. The cables don’t meet to be much longer than the distance from your RV’s hitch receiver to your tow vehicles front bumper.

I’ll certainly let you know in the morning. I am curious myself.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

This is an excellent setup! And, I like the oversized grip handle pins. Don’t have them yet, but they are on my “buy list.”

We’ve used Roadmaster and Demco (AF-1) towing products for several years and have had great luck with them. We’re in the midst of setting up a new toad right now and our parts list is almost identical to yours, @Cardiff RV, except the base plate which is for a 2020 Lincoln Nautilus instead of a 2021 Jeep Wrangler.

One additional item we have used (and will continue to use) is the Roadmaster Tow Defender rock screen. In six years of towing the 2014 Honda CR-V, we have not picked up a single rock mark. The only negative for the Tow Defender is that it gets pretty dirty with road grime. I wear a pair of gloves when handling the mesh for hooking up/unhooking it and that solves the problem.

TJ

 

[MapNerd]

I have part 674, 80" 8,000 lb. GVWR capacity single hook hybrid.

 

[Cardiff RV]

For a Jeep do you think I need the battery charger. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Roadmaster/RM-156-25.html Can't hurt, right?

I was also told that safety cables that come with the Nighthawk, have not confirmed but the RV Parts manager said they are included with the tow bar.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

For a Jeep do you think I need the battery charger. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Roadmaster/RM-156-25.html Can't hurt, right?

I was also told that safety cables that come with the Nighthawk, have not confirmed but the RV Parts manager said they are included with the tow bar.

Yes, the Nighthawk “Includes safety cables and power cord” per the Roadmaster web site.

NIGHTHAWK TOW BARS

Discover top-quality tow bars, braking systems, and RV accessories at Roadmaster Inc. in Vancouver, Washington. Enhance your RV experience with reliable and innovative products designed for safety and convenience.

www.roadmasterinc.com

As for wiring a charging line from the coach to the toad, I always recommend doing that; whether you need it or not right now. If you should change toads, the next one may need it even if the current one doesn’t.

TJ

 

["EZ"]

I highly recommend the Air Force One auxilliary brake system. It does a great job. I however chose to go with the Blue Ox tow bar.

 

[MapNerd]

Purely anecdotal and I don’t mean to step on anyone’s toes or disparage anyone for their choices or preferences. I just have noticed recently, in the last few months, multiple reports of significant blue ox failures whereas I cannot find a single report of a Roadmaster failure anywhere. If there is a Roadmaster failure report, I would love to see it. Sincerely - please share it with me

 

["EZ"]

Purely anecdotal and I don’t mean to step on anyone’s toes or disparage anyone for their choices or preferences. I just have noticed recently, in the last few months, multiple reports of significant blue ox failures whereas I cannot find a single report of a Roadmaster failure anywhere. If there is a Roadmaster failure report, I would love to see it. Sincerely - please share it with me

Do you know which model of Blue Ox has had failures? Where did you read about these failures? I'd like to see what's going on. So far I've had no issues whatsoever. But if mine is one of the models with issues, then I may want to get a different one.

Thanks for the heads up!

 

[MapNerd]

Do you know which model of Blue Ox has had failures? Where did you read about these failures? I'd like to see what's going on. So far I've had no issues whatsoever. But if mine is one of the models with issues, then I may want to get a different one.

Thanks for the heads up!

I read about them on iRV2 but a Google search for “blue ox failure” turns up lots of results, not just on irv2. Also, me having read about them recently doesn’t necessarily mean they occurred recently. Some might have, some might have not. I’ve not gone back and reread, it just occurred to me that I was seeing these kinds of posts more frequently, but it could very will be just people commenting at the end of very old posts, which typically brings them to the top of forums with a kind of Lazarus effect

blue ox failure - Google Search

a similar Google search for “Roadmaster failure” turns up just a fraction of hits, many of which have nothing to do with Roadmaster tow bars and/or base plates. Changing the search term to “Roadmaster towbar baseplate failure” doesn’t really change the results much either.

 

["EZ"]

I read about them on iRV2 but a Google search for “blue ox failure” turns up lots of results, not just on irv2. Also, me having read about them recently doesn’t necessarily mean they occurred recently. Some might have, some might have not. I’ve not gone back and reread, it just occurred to me that I was seeing these kinds of posts more frequently, but it could very will be just people commenting at the end of very old posts, which typically brings them to the top of forums with a kind of Lazarus effect

blue ox failure - Google Search

a similar Google search for “Roadmaster failure” turns up just a fraction of hits, many of which have nothing to do with Roadmaster tow bars and/or base plates. Changing the search term to “Roadmaster towbar baseplate failure” doesn’t really change the results much either.

I found this while searching a few minutes ago. This was on the RV Forum.net website. At least this one was no fault of Blue Ox and they even gave him a new tow bar! I'll keep reading and will go check my tow bar later!!!

In our case, we skidded the motor home and that caused the toad (a Ford Ranger) to whipsaw back and forth. On the back, it hit a concrete wall causing considerable damage to the truck (totalled ) and the subsequent swings placed extraordindary side loads on the tow bar that it was never designed to sustain in normal use. Even 3" tubing will only take so much abuse The safety chains held however. I use real chains, not cable nor swaged fittings.

 

["EZ"]

I've read 3 more stories about failed Blue Ox two bars. All 3 were the same. The poster comes on swearing that Blue Ox is junk and it caused all this damage when it failed. Then people start asking questions and the original poster goes away and never clarifies or answers any questions. I'm thinking that a lot of these people may have caused the failure of the tow bars themselves due to misuse. There were twice as many stories in the threads about watching idiots backing up with the TOAD still attached while "pushing" it into the camp site and stuff like that. lol. It's hard to know who to believe, right?

One thing about it. I will be inspecting my Blue Ox aluminum tow bar very carefully before and after each use from now on. I'd suggest you do the same regardless of which brand you own.

 

[MapNerd]

I'm thinking that a lot of these people may have caused the failure of the tow bars themselves due to misuse.

“User Error. Please replace user” is always a possible, and sometimes regularly occurring failure code!

 

[Cardiff RV]

Okay, things did not go as planned. Hitch Tube bent down.

We are way under tongue weight but maybe the rear positioning of the bikes and bounce compounded with the extensions caused the problem.

Going to need to have the hitch replaced.

The question is how can I safely accomplish this setup?

Can try to eliminate the hitch extension to the tow bar. Get a bike rack that does not extend as much (This one was long so it can also be used on the Jeep and extend past the Jeep's spare) Can also swap the Gen-Y with something else? Open to all ideas at this point.

Thanks

 

["EZ"]

OMG!!!! That first pic tells the whole story there. You basically have a 3 foot long lever that you used to bend the hitch down. I can't believe you had a tow bar attached to that contraption. It just LOOKS dangerous.

BTW.............did you read the part where the manufacturer of the hitch extension says that the towing capacity is cut in HALF when using their hitch extender? This is for a 12' extension I believe. It would be reduced even more for the extremely long hitch extension that you have. Get them bicycles off there before you really cost yourself some serious money when that mess fails completely. Put the bikes on the back of the TOAD.