Problem Rear air

[WinePress]

Just replaced mine this week. Part # 3314471.011
$192.00 from Panther RV Products.
Took about three hours. Before you start, take a look at the tools you will need, like t handle hex key for the fan cages. Pretty easy install, just time consuming. Tech suggested a temporary work around where you drill two small holes on the motor case and fill with oil. I elected to just replace it.

 

[lostinfla]

I first noticed the noise in the fan motor on Saturday night (of course) and luckily it rained all day Sunday, but I figured it was a major priority so I searched low and high for a motor to get within a day or so with no luck. I found a Camping World in Indianapolis that had 2 in stock without heat pump, and they were on sale for 1200.00. We drove 110 miles through monsoon like rain and wind to pick it up there and made it back to the coach in time to hear about the mall shooting that turned out to be about 4 miles from where we were. This morning, the wife and I got up about 7 and the skies were clear with no rain till noon. Took the unit out of the Jeep and put it on the picnic table, then tied a rope to one end of the base through the cardboard carton. Got help from the 2 guys picking up the trash bags to get it up on the roof. They wouldn't accept money at all. After I got the new unit installed, they stopped back by and said they would dispose of the old unit and helped me get it off the roof, again not accepting any money. Kind of restored my faith in human kindness after hearing of the shooting. It started to rain just as I was putting the tools away, and I am sitting in AC comfort, Praise God!! Thanks to all here who suggested options and especially Rich W for his recommendation of NRVR. They gave me a few pointers on dip switch settings.

 

[AbdRahim]

Still can’t figure out how you got it up on the roof.

 

[Neal]

Getting solar panels on my roof was fun. They do bounce I'm not sure how the AC replacement will go when that time comes.

Did you have to get that "special gasket" or did you reuse the prior one? Wasn't there some special shaped gasket required for Newmar?

 

[Lab00Rat]

.... They gave me a few pointers on dip switch settings.

Do tell, please.

 

[Neal]

Dip switches should match your other unit. Use as a reference if needed. Take a pic of the old too as an option.

 

[lostinfla]

Getting solar panels on my roof was fun. They do bounce I'm not sure how the AC replacement will go when that time comes.

Did you have to get that "special gasket" or did you reuse the prior one? Wasn't there some special shaped gasket required for Newmar?

No special gasket that I saw. The new unit had the thick foam square that seals the duct. That's the only one the original unit had. As far as the dip switches, the new unit has them all off default. I hooked the unit up and the thermostat didn't recognize the second unit, only #1. I had to set the #2 switch on the unit to let the thermostat know it was there.
Now, getting it on the roof was tough. Used a rope attached to the metal base through the box to protect the unit, and I pulled it up the ladder from the top with an assistant pushing from the bottom. It's amazing what can be done when it HAS to be done. 90 deg tomorrow.

 

[lostinfla]

Dip switches should match your other unit. Use as a reference if needed. Take a pic of the old too as an option.

I didn't even know they were there till I called NRVR.

 

[lostinfla]

I'd suggest everyone check their Penguin II air units. I just installed some Micro-Air soft start today and pulled the cover on my brand new - just replaced unit to find pretty lousy build quality.

It is important to make sure that the air flow is controlled between the low pressure and exhaust zones. Only air should be pulled through the heat exchange fins and not any cracks or tares in the foam or barrier around the low pressure zone.

View attachment 13365

I found openings in the barrier that should not be there...
View attachment 13366
View attachment 13368

Also, the cold cap was not fully seated, and refused to close to be seated and clipped.
View attachment 13367

This is a brand new unit too, so it's like this from the factory.

My repair was to run aluminum hvac tape across gaps and cracks to seal them. It did make a difference in the cooling of the coach and the A/C vent flow was higher. That means my cold air was being blow out of the gap in the cold zone. There was a gap in the barrier and in the cold zone on both A/C units. Took about 20 feet of hvac tape to seal both units. Not sure if it's the best, but I can cut the tape for maintenance easily if needed.

Not sealing off gaps in the low pressure zone will lead to overheating of the motor bearings and premature failure in the unit.

Thanks for this info. My new unit as well as the old one has the same gaps and leaks. The DW is on the way to the store to pick up some metal tape to seal them up. Also, thanks to @Neal for quizzing me on the "special gasket" that Newmar uses. It uses a foam divider to isolate the supply from the return plenum under the unit. I made the "special" part out of another base gasket that I bought with the unit. Picture below is how the divider runs diagonally. Another tip, when having the evap cover off, pull the 4 phone plugs out of their connectors and spray a little WD in them to clean the connections. If they get corroded, it will throw a code to the thermostat for no communication. While I'm up there, I'll clean the coils on the front unit and I should be good to go for a while anyway (till the next emergency shows up)