Refrigerator question

[Louisfarm]

I have a RV dometic refrigerator in my 2008 Safari Simba motorhome. Why when connected to 30 amp shore power, nothing else running, it trips the electric every time and then connects to propane.

 

[Chuggs]

The electric element can short just like any other. It can short closed or open. If it trips the breaker I would guess it shorted closed,,, if you have a good element...might measure it’s resistance and compare to yours that faults and trips the breaker. If you can find the wattage of your model...the manual has the math for calculating the resistance that should be present.

You didn’t say which breaker trips... if it is the main 30A breaker...you may be Using too many 110v loads at once. We typically used the fridge...and up to two of three other loads...a/c, microwave, or water heater in electric. Turn all of those off before you turn in the fridge. If the fridge still trips...then the element might be the cause. Propane only requires the 12v control board and propane to work.

 

[Louisfarm]

I'd like to add another variable, it works great on 50 amp!!

 

[Chuggs]

There are a lot more variables...

Is your rig a 50A? Or you are using a 50A to 30A dogbone?
Does it have a transfer switch?
Which breaker is tripping?
How many amps is your converter(charger) draw?
When you say nothing else ON, does this mean the converter is OFF too?
How many batteries do you have?
Does your rig have an Energy Management unit? What items will it shed when connected to less than 50?
Did anyone add a Hot Rod to your water heater? And cheat by plugging it into the same outlet as your fridge?
What is the AC voltage you are connecting to?
Does this happen when connected to other 30A pedestals? or just this one?

I don’t really know anything about your rig...so, I have to aim for general solutions. Dirty contact issues with outlets, plugs, transfer switches, breakers can all cause these problems. The element probably isn’t the issue if it doesn’t cause a failure on 50A.

 

["EZ"]

If it trips a 30 amp breaker DO NOT plug it into a 50 amp breaker to keep it from tripping!! You may burn your camper to the ground. The tripping breaker is trying to tell you that there is a short somewhere. Get it fixed or don't use the electric side of the 'fridge.

 

[Louisfarm]

The rig is 50 amp class A and when i can I'll use 50 amp. However, a dog bone to 30 amp is the best i can get in many places. The breaker panel has no effect on the refrigerator wether working or not. When it trips none of the breakers have tripped so there must be a trip in the refrigeration system. I'm thinking it could be the transfer switch that automatically switches to propane when the electric cramps out (30 amp only). I have 6 225 amp trogan batteries. On 30 amp we monitor it closely usage so not to exceed the max and we don't use the air and electric hot water but everything else (other than the fridge) work aok. Don't know about 'hot rod' but as stated above its never in when we use 30 amp. Consistently doesn't work on any other pedestal. BTW, thanks for all the great questions and your time. Keep it coming.

 

[Chuggs]

The hot rod was a gizmo sold which replaces the anode in a hot water heater...which is an anode/heating element combo. It allows for faster recovery when using electric only. Many times the hot water heater is close to the fridge...so people may be inclined to plug in to the receptacle the fridge is using.

If you can...pull the outside panel from the fridge...see if the 110v plug has come loose or is plugged into a loose receptacle. I would imagine even a momentary interruption will exhibit itself as you are seeing --- switching to propane.

Something is causing unreliable 110v power to the fridge circuitry.

Many folks have had to replace the computer board for these fridges... I've seen listings for aftermarket dinosaur boards to replace the failing OEM equipment.

I know it has to be frustrating to find these little quirk failures... Might try routing an extension cord directly from the 20A outlet on the pedestal to the fridge plug. If no more problems...it's probably wiring, connections, receptacle contacts... If it keeps happening ...the fridge circuit board might be flaking out.

 

[Louisfarm]

Thanks for your tip on connecting to 20 amp shore. It worked great. I then tried using the an outlet in the rig and that works great. So, something is obviously wrong with the connection the fridge connect's to. What's odd with this receptical is in and out 12 ga. wire. I'll keep you posted on any progress. It's to hot now to work on tracking wires, so tonight or tomorrow morning.

 

[Louisfarm]

Chuggs, what is a RVF groupie?

 

[Chuggs]

I guess someone that hangs around looking for brain teasing problems to try and solve ? ???

Excellent...well it certainly narrows things down. I know these fleeting problems can be confounding at times. Could be a loose connection, or the mfg...made too short a wire try to reach...putting strain on the connectors. It's always a challenge with intermittent problems...

I think it's a wonder we don't have more of these issues...as much as the road bounces these rigs around.

 

[Louisfarm]

We'll you've been a great person to work with. This last bit of information should close this blog. The receptical had a loose ground wire. Runs great straight from the original receptical and even under inverter power. I couldn't be happier. Kudos to you

 

[Chuggs]

No...you did all the work. I just have fun trying to solve problems. It's nice when everything is back to working properly. Enjoy!!