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Removing and replacing diamondshield ibm film

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bpaikman

RVF Supporter
Joined
Jun 25, 2020
Messages
1,008
Location
Lake Jackson, Texas
RV Year
2014
RV Make
Newmar
RV Model
Ventana LE 3436
RV Length
35 feet
Chassis
Freightliner
Engine
Cummins 340 hp
TOW/TOAD
2013 Subaru Crosstrek - manual, flat tow
Fulltimer
No
Has anyone had any experience with replacing the film applied to the front of Rvs. We removed the film from ours and it was quite tedious and expensive, but afterwards it looked like brand new - the paint underneath was perfect. However I don’t know if it stayed that way - we sold shortly afterwards.
Are there any good alternatives to this stuff? I’m looking at used pushers and it apparently fails at about eight years, and the front of your RV will look like it’s been splattered with those mayflies or love bugs. I don’t know if mileage has anything to do with it but ours had less than 50,000 miles on it when it began to fail.
I wonder if the company that puts it on could fix it.
 
I removed mine once and I’m still in therapy.

I didn’t replace it with anything and as a result, the front cap below the windshield looked like it had been shot repeatedly with a scattergun.
 
I've had mine removed twice under the lifetime warranty and replaced.

A heat gun, spray bottle with dawn and water, and a lot of pulling once you get an edge.

It takes about 10 minutes to remove the upper half, and about 20 minutes to remove the bottom. Another 20 to get the door and misc pieces.

Heat management is key...too much and it will melt and not be strong enough to pull section. Too little and it's brittle. Using the soapy water allows it to get in between and helps pulling it off.
 
Last edited:
I’m not understanding your comment. You said you had it removed twice and replaced and then he describe how you did it. Which is it? Evidently the warranty is only for the original owner.
I am looking at buying a RV from an original owner but I’m afraid that very soon I’m going to have to replace that shield. Where can I have it done
 
I've had mu e removed twice under the lifetime warranty and replaced.

A heat gun, spray bottle with dawn and water, and a lot of pulling once you get an edge.

It takes about 10 minutes to remove the upper half, and about 20 minutes to remove the bottom. Another 20 to get the door and misc pieces.

Heat management is key...too much and it will melt and not be strong enough to pull section. Too little and it's brittle. Using the soapy water allows it to get in between and helps pulling it off.
Also we had ours removed at a body shop when it was about 10 years old and I think about that age it’s not going to be removable with the technique you described…. is probably already brittle and crackled.
 
I described how it was done...never said I did the removal. I stood by and watched every step and videoed portions of the process. I was concerned they would damage paint.

1st time they pealed paint, and I had them stop the the process so that paint could be repaired, then 6 weeks later had diamond shield applied.
 
In 2018 a friend of mine removed his 3m shield from his 2007 Allstar. Used the same process, but the sheets pulled off where much smaller, and the paint came off in many areas. It also took about 8 hours to remove it all. He had the entire front end repainted, and did not reapply the shield.
 
I described how it was done...never said I did the removal. I stood by and watched every step and videoed portions of the process. I was concerned they would damage paint.

1st time they pealed paint, and I had them stop the the process so that paint could be repaired, then 6 weeks later had diamond shield applied.
Ahhh gotcha.
 
In 2018 a friend of mine removed his 3m shield from his 2007 Allstar. Used the same process, but the sheets pulled off where much smaller, and the paint came off in many areas. It also took about 8 hours to remove it all. He had the entire front end repainted, and did not reapply the shield.
I guess we are fortunate. The shield came off in little pieces but it didn’t damage the paint. It looked great afterwards. But we didn’t drive it enough after that to get damage from rocks.
 
Where could we have the film removed and reapplied if we buy this 7-yo coach we’re looking at? The film still looks good but I don’t think it will in a year or two.
 
In my experience, the better the condition of the DS, the easier and quicker it is to remove.
Where could we have the film removed and reapplied if we buy this 7-yo coach we’re looking at? The film still looks good but I don’t think it will in a year or two.
You can check with any place that does RV paint and body work. I was surprised when I found out that a local outfit I was considering was given the DS papal blessing to apply new material. You could also get a referral from DS themselves.
 
In my experience, the better the condition of the DS, the easier and quicker it is to remove.

You can check with any place that does RV paint and body work. I was surprised when I found out that a local outfit I was considering was given the DS papal blessing to apply new material. You could also get a referral from DS themselves.
Oh, OK. And that's a good point about the condition. So another words don't wait until it's in bad shape
 
If the ds has had regular treatment with 303 and cleaning after every drive, it should last much longer.

There are products superior to DS. I had my 2021 BMW M3 wrapped with a product that is self healing, transparent at all angles, and much tougher than DS. It was expensive, but came with a lifetime transferable warranty. Any auto detail shop that deals in paint correction and protection will either be able to install or refer to a local installer.

My 2022 LA will have the DS removed, and the entire front cap (above windshiele) done as well as the door, and baggage doors.
 
DS removed post build or never applied by Newmar? Certainly better to never put it on. Curious of Newmar would do that.
 
DS removed post build or never applied by Newmar? Certainly better to never put it on. Curious of Newmar would do that.
Yes they will. $300 fee to not install. You can request the 3d cut rolls to be included and not installed. This is how I am ordering mine. These will be used for templates for a better quality PPF that doesn't require constant care.
 
$300 to not do work...Ok, so they have to manage that someone doesn't put the material on. Plus they get paid their original parts / labor in the selling price...
Just venting...you already knew all that.
What PPF will you be installing? DIY or a shop? I might look into DIY of same material.
 
Most likely xpel. I have this on my 21 M3. It hasn't been on long enough to know how it will hold up, but based on my research it's the best quality.

I am going to be adding this to all the bay doors, the entire line below the floor level, front cap top to bottom, entry door, and the rear below the engine door.

This will be applied after paint correction and before ceramic coating. The entire coach will then be ceramic coated.
 

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