Ridiculously cheap, ridiculously easy mods to consider

[lostinfla]

Yup. Seems like I will be pretty busy, once I get mine and get everything fixed and working.

Just an FYI, it never ends.

 

[CoreyinWP]

I couldn't find step covers that ran the full width of the step...ordered the mats and punched grommets,,,,works great

 

[Jabber Jaw]

I have got to check before ordering, twice now I struck out! For the gutter at the top of the window, magneshade conflict, okay so then above the glass? Newmar logo conflict. Bummer!

Neal,
Haven't yet installed my Magna Shades. Going to do it while in Florida. Leaving early tomorrow.
But do you think there could be a way to install them and the gutter across the windshield as well?

Allan

 

[Neal]

The magneshade is designed to cover the glass so no, I don't think so. You could probably lower it slightly but that risks magnets not lining up as designed.

 

[MapNerd]

The magneshade is designed to cover the glass so no, I don't think so. You could probably lower it slightly but that risks magnets not lining up as designed.

But if you're the one placing the magnets, I see no reason why you couldn't install the drip-tray, then install the magnets maybe a 1/2" lower or whatever so that the top of the magneshade starts at the bottom of the drop tray which is at the very top edge of the windscreen.

 

[Jabber Jaw]

But if you're the one placing the magnets, I see no reason why you couldn't install the drip-tray, then install the magnets maybe a 1/2" lower or whatever so that the top of the magneshade starts at the bottom of the drop tray which is at the very top edge of the windscreen.

That might work. Will have to look at it; once I get to the sunny,warm confines of Florida!

Allan

 

[Neal]

The problem is you won't be able to get the bottom magnets where they need to be. Imagine the material designed for the shape of your windshield. Now you lower it you can't get the bottom magnets lower than the dash so you won't get a good alignment at the bottom. My top left/right magnets are as high as they can go as they hit the overhead panel, my bottom magnets are as low as they go as they hit the dash. You don't have room to play, in my opinion.

 

[lostinfla]

Neal, you beat me to it. Exactly correct. Now if you order a Magneshade, you could have them make it 1" less in height, but for those who have them already, it's a moot point. I'm putting my "gutter" on the paint above the windshield. I had already removed the top cap Newmar badge (front and rear) and installed my NKK numbers in place on the front. Unfortunately, I now have to remove and order new numbers as I mounted them as low as possible. As you can see, I really don't have a problem with streaks off the top... Just waiting to clean the top next week so I didn't worry about how it looks now.

 

[Neal]

Any tips on removing that Newmar badge? That sounds like a viable option.

 

[lostinfla]

Any tips on removing that Newmar badge? That sounds like a viable option.

It is a bear. I used the 3M remover liberally and 4 thumb nails. The goo they stick them on with is pretty stout, but then again, you got nothing else to do....
On mine, it left a slight silhouette of the shape, but I removed a lot of that with scratch remover. I almost think mine had the clear touched up with the logo's already on leaving a slight impression. The numbers in the front camo it also.

 

[J&JD]

It is a bear. I used the 3M remover liberally and 4 thumb nails. The goo they stick them on with is pretty stout, but then again, you got nothing else to do....
On mine, it left a slight silhouette of the shape, but I removed a lot of that with scratch remover. I almost think mine had the clear touched up with the logo's already on leaving a slight impression. The numbers in the front camo it also.

Heat gun might help a bit.

 

[Neal]

I'm hoping I can attach to the seal above the glass and mitigate the problems. I don't think removing the logo is going to be an aesthetic winner at this point.

 

[Jwl_Atlanta]

BTW, here's a few small cheap mods I've done that have made our time in the coach better. First off, I hated that I couldn't see the controls for slides etc. without an external light. I tried motion lights to no avail, so I pulled the panel and redesigned it. Made the holes bigger and installed a couple of cheap LED strips behind to show through the labels on the panels. They are actuated by a magnetic switch on the door. Before and after pics.
View attachment 681View attachment 682

Next, we were looking for a dish drainer that would fit in the small sink. Got a piece of ceiling grid from Lowes and cut it to fit the top lip of the sink.

View attachment 683

Always looking for an extension cord outside and it's never where I left it... 40' recoil cord mounted in basement with 4 plex receptacle.

View attachment 684

Don't know why Newmar installs two drink holders on the drivers armrest which moves the shifter back too far to use easily. Another trip to Lowes for some Oak cabinet material (they didn't have maple) covered the armrest and re cut the holes to move everything up. Also installed the window switch below on the vertical to clean things up. I put a small foldout drink holder on the dash. Also a chip clip on the park brake so it isn't disengaged by mistake.

View attachment 685

Water bay faucets with flush hose and timer, SeeLevel monitor, and quick disconnect for the hot cold mixer. Shower head has fitting also.

View attachment 686

I know there's a bunch more, but we're on the roof today doing a re seal.

Would you mind sharing the parts/pieces that make up the hot/cold water control? Thanks

 

[lostinfla]

Would you mind sharing the parts/pieces that make up the hot/cold water control? Thanks

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QGXABS6/?tag=rvf01-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1QCZI/?tag=rvf01-20

I cut the mixer shorter and used worm drive clamps to reconnect it.

 

[Jwl_Atlanta]

Thank you very much. Did you buy a different molded plastic piece to mount the faucets to? Thanks again.