Roof treatment

[Highpockets]

I am looking for recommendations on proper treatment of 5th Wheel roof. My understanding is UV can really deteriorate the roofing. Thanks for information
Highpockets

 

[AbdRahim]

I am a strong believer in RV Armor. I figure it in to the price of any RV. Expensive, but what is the price of a lifetime of peace of mind.

 

[Highpockets]

Thanks for the quick reply
I agree wholeheartedly I will take a look this product
Highpockets

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Roof material is big for this question! If you coach has fiberglass roofing, sealing will take care of most problems.

Rubber roofing should be coated while new, so uv never becomes a problem. The product I have used is Henry's 100% silicone roof coat. Under the name tropi-cool. Don't take my word for it, go to their website and read about it there.

 

[Highpockets]

Thanks Kevin. The front and rear surfaces are fiberglass . The center appears to be either a vinyl or rubberized material. I am contacting CrossRoads to learn specifics.
Highpockets

 

[Kevin D Pem]

After 33 years, my glass cap developed spider fractures. Sanded and applied tropi-coat. My roof is one piece aluminum but still coated to insulate from sun.

Read the information on Henry's, it is designed for rubber roofs.

 

[Highpockets]

 

[Jim]

I am a strong believer in RV Armor. I figure it in to the price of any RV. Expensive, but what is the price of a lifetime of peace of mind.

I went to their website to inquire about a price. Apparently they have to call you so I left my name/number. While I'm waiting to hear from them, what did the product cost on your rig?

 

[RKins]

Jim, have you been up on your roof (my wife has put sever constraints on stuff I used to do, like this)? It should be a fiberglass roof with sealant where the seams are. Fiberglass doesn't need to be sealed but the seams sealant may need to be redone. I scaped all that sealant off, filled the gap with good caulking and then put 4" Eternabond over that, all around. Your coach is much too young to worry about this.

 

[AbdRahim]

I went to their website to inquire about a price. Apparently they have to call you so I left my name/number. While I'm waiting to hear from them, what did the product cost on your rig?

I think it was around $4500. I think they charge by the foot. My 0 foot class C was $3500. Reducing the number of areas that need seals checked was well worth it. And it is guaranteed for life. PM me for a discount. And no, I neither work for them nor do I get paid by them. Just a good repeat customer.

 

[Jim]

Jim, have you been up on your roof (my wife has put sever constraints on stuff I used to do, like this)?

lol, yeah, those days are over.

But no, I haven't been up there, and my coach is under cover, so very seldom is it exposed to the elements. But it's a nice coach, and it's a paid for coach, and I was just thinking of protecting it from as much future maintenance as possible. And another $4,500-$5,000 isn't much in the grand scheme of things in the RV world.

Thank you for your input!

 

[Highpockets]

I owned a Class C motorhome. Front portion was fiberglass the remainder was aluminum with two seams running the length of the roof. Started to see water damage on ceiling around the ac unit. After investigating options I purchased a piece of 90mil rubber roofing got $60 and glued it to the entire roof area.
I also coated it with a white rubber roof coating to reduce heat gain inside. I finally sold it 12 years later never had and issues with leaks. I took great care while reinstalling the ac unit, vents and skylights.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

I owned a Class C motorhome. Front portion was fiberglass the remainder was aluminum with two seams running the length of the roof. Started to see water damage on ceiling around the ac unit. After investigating options I purchased a piece of 90mil rubber roofing got $60 and glued it to the entire roof area.
I also coated it with a white rubber roof coating to reduce heat gain inside. I finally sold it 12 years later never had and issues with leaks. I took great care while reinstalling the ac unit, vents and skylights.

So Highpockets, you reroofed your RV. Nice!!! Those that I know that have done what you described, failed to put appropriate flange in the front of the rigs roof and had the headwind remove it, so good job!!!

In my 44 years experience with "trailer life", yes your worst enemy, "trailer trash ", my best roof experiences are with aluminum roofing(the number one thing I look for in a purchase). I don't care if it has leaks as long as I can check for rot. I can easily fix most aluminum roofing by finding where unqualified people have tried patching them.

Biggest problem is the A/C as RV roofs don't handle the weight or vibration well. As a fix I shim the weight induced sag out of the roof. I silicone seal a patch of aluminum over the hole, as the roof at that location is compromised (did I say I love inverter mini splits right?).

Cleaning out all the patch, previously coated over all seams, will likely stop leaks as it only serves to dam the water so it pools. As long as water now runs off the roof, a simple double coat of flexible roof paint will keep the water out. I know I told you after Henry's started producing 100% silicone roof paint, I recommend nothing else.

 

[Highpockets]

Yep! Covered the entire roof area with one piece running it down the sides to the drip rail. You are correct one must properly install an additional band over front leading edge or wind will eventually lift the edge. I installed a 4” wide band of the same rubber material across the leading edge and purchased what is called seam-sealer from Carlisle ( the manufacturer of the rubber roofing ) and applied to both edges. I cut the openings for any penetrations smaller than required so there was a water tight seal
We used that rig year around driving from Gulf of Mexico to northern Ontario from the Mississippi river through the Rocky mountains. Stayed high and dry no matter the temperature/weather.