Storage Door - Latches - The dreaded cable latch issue

[redbaron]

So, one only needs to adjust to get rid of the bone jarring slamming? I’m on it.

What I do is get a low stool and sit where I can get eye level with the latch. Pushing it slowly. Determine if it is trying to push the door up or down. Adjust the bracket, without fully tightening, and repeat. Once you find the proper vertical placement, then check for horizontal.

The amount of compression a new seal will allow vs an older will affect the horizontal adjustment. This will change over time, and should always require a small amount of force to compress. There is a lot of seal surface area compared to the weight of the door.

I am sure this is where the bad advice of slamming originated. For me, two fingers will provide enough force to close the doors securely.

The front door is very heavy, so all I need is a pinky to get it to close fully. Never slam the entry door...things will wear out and break.

The adjustment for that latch is very different. I will have to find the guide for that door.

 

[AbdRahim]

Don’t slam your doors. Just press with your hand the door where the latch is located. If the U part attached to the coach frame is misaligned, it will brake the plastic guide eventually.

Will have to try this. Never was comfortable with the slamming idea.

 

[AbdRahim]

Don’t slam your doors. Just press with your hand the door where the latch is located. If the U part attached to the coach frame is misaligned, it will brake the plastic guide eventually.

Hey Mr. Buly. I just tried that and it works. I am sure my neighbors will appreciate this technique, as well.

 

[Old-RV'er]

Do not have part number. Yes, bakelite part is mostly a guide, but the pin keeps the two metal pieces together, and they need the support so the lock does not deform. If I get PN from Newmar I will post here. Might buy extra if not to expensive and the battery access/DEF-Hose Storage doors do not have exactly the same mechanism on the door if memory serves. Will advise once know.

 

[Buly]

Tha black plastic latch guide is not made of Bakelite. I think it is high density polypropylene? They should have made them from Delrin, but I guess it will cost few cents more. Car latches have Delrin parts and they last forever.

Hey Mr. Buly. I just tried that and it works. I am sure my neighbors will appreciate this technique, as well.

I get up early around 5-6 am, so that’s how it started. Did not want to wake up the neighbors if needed something from the basement, or had to dump the tanks ?

 

[Old-RV'er]

Newmar Parts, $63.00 and change, should be here by Friday. Latch has some redesign, expensive part is the nylon support/guide thing. There is a left and right side part number. I will attach the document from Newmar. Very excellent service. Lots of supply on this part.

 

[redbaron]

Lots of supply on this part.

Its a money maker--as it is usually the first to break when being slammed into the metal catch.

Win - Win for RV service and parts sales. No time wasted fixing the problem, and a new profit center.

 

[Buly]

The rotary latches are made by Eberhard. $10-$15 retail. I had them installed on my plane. Still have some left?.

 

[Neemer]

Don’t slam your doors. Just press with your hand the door where the latch is located. If the U part attached to the coach frame is misaligned, it will brake the plastic guide eventually.

I just attempted this technique. It works on my entry door, but the others are mocking me to the point of affecting my posture.

 

[Old-RV'er]

Received Part today. Going to install tomorrow, will try to remember to take pictures of any gotchas, so you have a record. Does not look like rocket science. I never observed any tension on the cable for the lock, so not sure why it would ever come lose.