Storage - Oil Practices

[AbdRahim]

Those of you who store your motorhomes for the winter, do you generally change the engine oil prior to storage and again when you take it out in the spring? There is a great controversy about condensation in the oil or the dirty oil causing corrosion.

Does anybody use Engine fogger prior to storage?

 

[BGMAC]

Those of you who store your motorhomes for the winter, do you generally change the engine oil prior to storage and again when you take it out in the spring? There is a great controversy about condensation in the oil or the dirty oil causing corrosion.

Does anybody use Engine fogger prior to storage?

Running your engine to operating temperature I think would be just fine. The biggest thing when storing an engine is internal corrosion. I would put an additive in that helps hold the oil on the parts. An example would be slick 50. It is advertised as to imbed itself into the metal to prevent corrosion and dry starts for sitting so long.
On Aircraft engines we have to be particularly careful about this. On the plane I use to have I used an additive called "AVBLEND" in my synthetic blend oil. It is actually the aircraft certified "Slick50".
As far as when to Change; My only reference is Aircraft again and that is recommend hrs of use or every 6 months. For me I would run the engine several times a month to operating temps just to get the oil to wet all the parts.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Those of you who store your motorhomes for the winter, do you generally change the engine oil prior to storage and again when you take it out in the spring? There is a great controversy about condensation in the oil or the dirty oil causing corrosion.

Does anybody use Engine fogger prior to storage?
[/QUOTE
I like to change oil before storing anything. nothing settles out of the oil when this is done. If the engine is not run in the mean time condensation is not a problem. once a month run up is OK but simply moving the rig a little keeps the bearing in good shape. The more you warm the more condensation, so choose your poison.

 

[Neal]

Don't store your MH. Use it year round

 

[AbdRahim]

Don't store your MH. Use it year round

I wish I could, but unfortunately stuck in snow country.

 

[BGMAC]

Actually running an engine does not create condensation. Condensation is when moisture in the air contacts a colder surface to create droplets. Like on your car early in the morning in the humid south. When you start your engine and warm it up you are changing the condensation back to a vapor. The longer you run the more vapor will be emitted out of the engine through the venting system. This helps, but depending on the environment you will get condensation again due to the humidity in the air. There are systems out there that will circulate the air going through a chemical to remove the moisture. The are several types in the aircraft arena where this is much more critical.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

H2O a by product of combustion, the longer the engine runs the more H2O, just science. I assume you are talking about the heat dissipating the water. Problem with that is the higher the temp the more water it takes to saturate the air and it must come out as condensation as things cool off. I say don't introduce water if you can help it.

Any movement in the shafts keep the seal from sticking to them and keeps bearings and shafts from developing flat spots.

 

[BGMAC]

H2O a by product of combustion, the longer the engine runs the more H2O, just science. I assume you are talking about the heat dissipating the water. Problem with that is the higher the temp the more water it takes to saturate the air and it must come out as condensation as things cool off. I say don't introduce water if you can help it.

Any movement in the shafts keep the seal from sticking to them and keeps bearings and shafts from developing flat spots.

I agree with you @Kevin D Pem on the moisture/condensation being induced . I do disagree with just letting it sit. You will never get ride of moisture in the air. The process that I am talking about is called "boiling" in the aircraft engine world where condensation is critical to control. The solution come from the engine manufactures not me. They require to run the engine, preferably fly the aircraft for at least 30 min so the aircraft engine gets to 200 deg F. This will vaporize "boil" the condensed water that is already on the internal surface's of the engine. It also allows oil to flow through the engine and re-coat the exposed surface's so when condensation occurs again it is somewhat protected. If the engine sits too long that oil protection gradually drains off and exposes the parts to the condensation again.

I know from personnel experience what could happen in an aircraft with this happens. In my case valve stems corroded and cause the #1 exhaust valve to stick. This contacted the piston and shattered. Material from it cause damage to #2 piston and it blew apart. I had my wife and mother with me and we all walked away. We were celebrating the purchase of the plane ("I owned it for 7 flying hours"). During the FAA accident investigation is when they found out about the internal issues of the engine.

Most of condensation problems "again aircraft" happen on camshaft lobes an bearings. They sit high enough in the engine and have more exposed machined surfaces. When they corrode it will cause damage to the lifters and possible the bearings.

As I said before there are system out there that will control the moisture in the crankcase. There used a lot in the aircraft world.

Engine Intensive Care Systems LLC – The Engine Drying System That Works

Engine Saver | Aircraft Spruce

Engine Saver Aircraft owners know that an aircraft not flown regularly is subject to rusting of the internal engine parts. This rust causes engine wear and shortens engine life. Water collects in the engine from two sources. First, moi

www.aircraftspruce.com

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Thank you @BGMAC for arguing both our cases. We have no idea how the PO did his maintenance routine, nor why there was so much condensate in the engine. All we know is that there was. With coolant cooling drastic changes in temp should never be a problem. However a descant in a container inline with the oil fill would relieve any fear. My concern would be the fuel and condensate, along with the algae that the condensate in the fuel brings. everybody needs to do what they feel safe with. and to that we are true. we simply have a different view as to what should be done. But now people have both views. I love forums.

 

[AbdRahim]

So do you change oil before storage of your motorhome, in winter (temperatures down to single digits at times or below), and at the end of storage, and is it necessary?

With regard to running the engine, Ford recommends starting it every two weeks and bringing it up to temperature.

 

["EZ"]

If I changed the oil before I parked the RV for a few months I would not change it again when you get ready to use it. The oil is still brand new. Any condensation that may accumulate in the crank case is very minor and will dissipate pretty quickly as you get to operating temps. There are a LOT more things to worry about than condensation in your engine. ?

 

[LSG]

Best thing is to buy a spray fogging agent follow the directions and close it up for the winter with the old oil. Ad stabile or something like that to the fuel. Next year After driving it for Fifteen minutes or more perform an oil change this will help pull moisture out of the engine and small settled debris as well.

 

[JRS]

On my Dad's farm which was located in the north, we always changed to new oil (both gas and diesel) prior to winter storage. Always bring the engine up to full temps prior to draining the oil. IMHO, I can't imagine that storing used oil in the crankcase over the winter is better than storing new oil. We also never started the engines during the winter season unless naturally they were needed for work.

 

[LSG]

On my Dad's farm which was located in the north, we always changed to new oil (both gas and diesel) prior to winter storage. Always bring the engine up to full temps prior to draining the oil. IMHO, I can't imagine that storing used oil in the crankcase over the winter is better than storing new oil. We also never started the engines during the winter season unless naturally they were needed for work.

Its like this if your old oil isn’t safe enough to sit over the winter it’s not safe period. Things happen in an engine every day expansion contraction like your gas tank sitting outside air moves in and out every day it has moisture and contaminants in it however small there getting in the oiling system through the pvc positive crankcase ventilation for those who don’t know. When an engine is ran the moisture is pulled off the contaminants some get filtered some small enough to be removed as vapors. But just sitting it’s in the oil and building.
now changing the oil before and after storage is great but that’s not how people are going to do this especially newer engines that require expensive oils. So its best to just fog the intake make sure all the fluids are good full and change the oil after running it twenty minutes or so when it comes out of storage. Always check the oil and make sure it doesn’t smell like fuel is in it as well. Just my view on this however I own two automotive shops and in my opinion and experience it is the better choice.

in case any of you still have engines powered by carburetors they can drain back into the intake which runs into the combustion chamber and then past the rings I’ve actually seen four or five that suffered rod bearing failures after being ran with several quarts of fuel mixed into the oil after sitting for the winter. Yard equipment is very likely to have this occur it’s important to change small engine oil first thing when coming out of storage.