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Traveling with Baby and Travel Trailer

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At one time I got owner liability permits to move a boat from Phoenix AZ to San Diego CA. I moved it with a 1 ton van with 360 V8 I beefed up the back of the van to support a penal hook and put an eye on the trailer. I hauled the boat and put it in the water. I had no problems on the trip and drove as safely as I could considering I was overloaded. The pass over the mountains I slowed to 15mph and used the 3 axle trailer brakes to the max. by the time I got to San Diego the speed was at 55mph the max my permit allowed.

When the trip was over the van was sold for 500 us as much work was then needed. That was what I figured would take place and it did. I have done many things normal people would not do, that attests to my mental state. However this was one task I would not do again under any circumstance. It would have been much harder if I got a extended body truck/van. I was however offered a job as a boat mover had I wanted one. Take my word for it, you will add more than 1000lbs in a conversion van. The longer the van the more sheet metal that's weight is removed from gvw.

You can tow more than your supposed to tow, I have done it, however 80% weight is a safe limit believe me. I am not telling you stories I am putting it on the line.
 
I’m afraid I think the only solution that would have fit all of your needs and wants would have been a Ford Excursion and they stopped making those in 2005. There is a company I know of that will take a 2016 or prior year F-250 and convert it to an Excursion but it’s such an expensive thing that unless you were really, really needed or wanted three rows and money were no object, a two row heavy duty truck like an F250 makes more sense.

Is three rows really a requirement or just a nice to have?
If you only need seating for 5 but wanted extra space, go look at an F250 SuperCrew or equivalent. They’re insanely roomy.
 
Am I missing something here? The GVWR of the van is 9,600 pounds. The fully loaded trailer GVWR is 9,300 pounds. My math says that adds up to 18,900 pounds. The Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GCVWR) for the van is 16,000 pounds. That puts your proposed combination 2,900 pounds OVERWEIGHT.

So, you aren't just "cutting it too close," you will be seriously overweight even BEFORE you convert the van to a camper.

TJ
 
@Kevin D Pem what you are saying, it's better to get the Short Wheelbase. I thought a long wheelbase is towing better since its better 'sitting' on the road. But yes, considering the cargo we want to put into the van a shorter makes more sense.

Trailer, I chose a lighter trailer since @TJ&LadyDi had a point ;-) there. But I'm not loading the van until its GVWR ( i know everyone recommends this, but it's really oversize for our case, that would be if I stick my whole MiniCooper into the Van) if I would fill it up until its GVWR the numbers now are: Van 9600 + Trailer 7000 = 16600 = 600 overweight IF I load the van to its GVWR.

New combination
GMC Savana 3500 (or Chevy Express), Normal Wheelbase, RWD, Towing Capacity 10.000 lbs, 6L, 8 Cylinder, Gasoline (GVWR 9.600 lbs
GCWR 16.000 lbs) putting 1500 lbs cargo inside.

towing a

Toy Hauler Travel Trailer 32.4 feet, Dry weight: 5.500 lbs., With Cargo: 7.000 with Cargo at max

Therewith I'm towing 7.000 pounds with a 10.000 pounds towing capacity (reducing it with VAN cargo by 1500 lbs) so its actually only 8.500 pound x 80% rule = 6800 lbs I should maximum tow. So should be working out?

@MapNerd thanks for that insider. Its not so much the rows we need its the space we need. Since we want to use the van for day excursions around where we stay with the trailer. We want to turn it into a "camper" with light modifications to sleep in and to cook some food. It also gonna be my husband's 'office' when we stay at the park (he still has a 9-5 and is on the phone a lot) that's the rationale behind it.
 
@Kevin D Pem what you are saying, it's better to get the Short Wheelbase. I thought a long wheelbase is towing better since its better 'sitting' on the road. But yes, considering the cargo we want to put into the van a shorter makes more sense.

Trailer, I chose a lighter trailer since @TJ&LadyDi had a point ;-) there. But I'm not loading the van until its GVWR ( i know everyone recommends this, but it's really oversize for our case, that would be if I stick my whole MiniCooper into the Van) if I would fill it up until its GVWR the numbers now are: Van 9600 + Trailer 7000 = 16600 = 600 overweight IF I load the van to its GVWR.

New combination
GMC Savana 3500 (or Chevy Express), Normal Wheelbase, RWD, Towing Capacity 10.000 lbs, 6L, 8 Cylinder, Gasoline (GVWR 9.600 lbs
GCWR 16.000 lbs) putting 1500 lbs cargo inside.

towing a

Toy Hauler Travel Trailer 32.4 feet, Dry weight: 5.500 lbs., With Cargo: 7.000 with Cargo at max

Therewith I'm towing 7.000 pounds with a 10.000 pounds towing capacity (reducing it with VAN cargo by 1500 lbs) so its actually only 8.500 pound x 80% rule = 6800 lbs I should maximum tow. So should be working out?

@MapNerd thanks for that insider. Its not so much the rows we need its the space we need. Since we want to use the van for day excursions around where we stay with the trailer. We want to turn it into a "camper" with light modifications to sleep in and to cook some food. It also gonna be my husband's 'office' when we stay at the park (he still has a 9-5 and is on the phone a lot) that's the rationale behind it.
Let me see if I got this straight. you have now a smaller trailer that has a gvw of 7000lbs am I reading that right? If I am then I like those numbers.
 
Let me see if I got this straight. you have now a smaller trailer that has a gvw of 7000lbs am I reading that right? If I am then I like those numbers.
Yes. I haven't bought neither of both yet. I'm trying to find the right combination. Thanks for your feedback..... Very well appreciated ?
 
While most people are concerned with how much weight they can PULL, they forget about how much weight they will need to STOP.

TJ

TJ I have to have this very same conversation every day with business owners that buy the Ram Commercial Chassis and bodies that I sell . They want to buy a Ram 4500/5500 with a dump body on it to pull their 45' trailer with the track hoe and 10 pallets of sod on it. ? They all say the same thing..........."That Cummins engine will pull ANYTHING!!!". And then I have the conversation about STOPPING the load once it's running 75 MPH down the road. Many of these idiots need a truck with air brakes but don't want to spend the money to buy a Freightliner or International. Lots of people tell me they've never had a truck salesman try to talk them out of buying a truck before!! I'm just trying to give them the correct information and put them in the correct truck for the application.

Same applies to tow vehicles and campers. Nobody wants to have to buy the $50-$70,000 diesel 1 ton truck to pull their home on wheels but it's what they NEED to be able to do it safely in many cases. ?
 

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