- Joined
- Dec 27, 2019
- Messages
- 1,857
- Location
- Virginia
- RV Year
- 2021
- RV Make
- Newmar
- RV Model
- DSDP 4326
- RV Length
- 43
- Chassis
- Freightliner
- Engine
- ISL 450
- TOW/TOAD
- 2023 Winnebago ERA 70A or 2012 Ford Taurus
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That really wouldn’t work. There are about 20 screws holding the hinge to the coach and the same # of rivets holding the door to the hinge. There is no room for new holes to realign the hinge/door, and the adjustment needed would be so small that the new screw holes would interfere/overlap the old ones. Also some doors arent removable without first removing the wheel well body work first, which would be a total pain and renders them more or less unremovable. I’m not really ready to tell the story yet, but I speak from first hand experience.I feel like I would need to remove the door to adjust where the hinges are attached…
I am up at Nappanee right now and asked this question ... and my tech said that they make all door adjustments with the coach aired up at ride height and all slides in.Also,.. if done with suspension dumped or not at ride height, it will change slightly when on suspension.
I had to replace a door this year and bought this to secure the hinge to the new door: M12™ Rivet Tool (Tool Only)Yea…. Don’t disagree. Which is why I never did it….
Yes ... it does look a little tight to me. I know in your case it was not possible to stay with your coach during the repairs, but I have found that staying there at the service center does help. You can talk to your tech during the day and can look at the work being done as it progresses. This certainly helps in getting it done like you want. They seem very receptive in having the owners involved in the process. At least that was my experience.I'm glad for both of you. I guess they just don't like me or maybe they put the qualified tec's on your coach and left me with the trainees.
But tell me something, cuz I don't want to gripe if this is normal. But the fellow I bought this coach from dropped a large sum of cash having the FWS fixed and adjusted before the coach was sent to me. And I can't bring myself to believe that that Newmar adjusted this FWS correctly.
Look at these pictures and tell me if this is normal. I just can't imaging that it is, but hey, what do I know?
This really reinforces the concept of making a representative show you exactly what was done and where the work was done as well. One of my huge pet peeves when any work gets done on a vehicle of mine is a mess left behind. If I am paying for work to be done I expect to have the problem corrected and the area that was worked on to be clean.Nope, didn't matter to me when it got done. I wasn't able to use the coach until the end of our park season.
I even went back and reread the email chain with Newmar, and nowhere in it did I ask them to do everything 100% wrong and charge me for the privilege. I wonder where they got that idea?
When we bought our used Newmar, we noticed the crummy door closings -Bob had the dealer service tech teach him how to adjust the doors. I'm still unimpressed with how the Ventana doors close compared to our old Winnebago Journey. They seem cheap - we still adjust them fairly often. I don't recall ever adjusting our old Winnebago.@Neal ... any chance (when you have the time) that you could post a thread called "how to self-adjust your basement doors for dummies ... including pictures" ?????
FLSteve![]()
Agree! Same with car doors - I taught my kids to gently close the door most of the way before the final click, so as not to catch air resistance. I hate hearing any door being slammed.As soon as @Jim pays the invoice. Then I can disclose the hard labor
Short story, it's just a matter of taking a 7/16" wrench or socket and adjusting the hooks on the coach side. Check up/down so your paint lines match, then move them in/out to your liking. I had to move Jim's slightly out (away from coach) so the gasket wasn't compressed so much you had to super slam the door. Slamming the doors will cause a slight "nail pop" indentation (outward) in the thin aluminum door if you slam them a lot. My test of what's right is my ability to push hard on the door, not slamming, just close and push, until it latches. If you can't push it to latch then the "hook" on the basement side needs to come outward. You still want the gasket to compress for water protection, but no need to super slam a door.