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What's up at Newmar anyway?

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My experiences with Newmar have been and continue to be outstanding. I go by the "expect to be treated how you treat others" motto. Realize they are dealing with a lot of customers, patience and clarity are crucial.
 
@Jim Who is Nevin Miller? For a more immediate response, I have found the London Aire Customer Service specialist helpful. His name is Rick Drinkwine. I would call him.
I think I have heard of a "Devin" Miller before. Lots of Miller's up here.

FLSteve :unsure:
 
So about the same time, @Neal arrived and he jumped in and adjusted them all. Only took him about 30 minutes. Again, thank you Neal!
@Neal ... any chance (when you have the time) that you could post a thread called "how to self-adjust your basement doors for dummies ... including pictures" ?????

FLSteve :unsure:
 
@Jim - your coach is stunning, not just saying that, I'm surprised how "new" it looks as I've stated before. Don't overlook the forest from the trees or whatever that saying is. I hope you keep a positive attitude on your score, it is a beaut, the stuff you're inquiring about is minor and I'm sure Newmar will answer and resolve it. You are beyond lucky with what you found, sure makes me think about how I will go about my next coach if there is a next coach.
 
@Neal ... any chance (when you have the time) that you could post a thread called " how to self-adjust your basement doors for dummies ... including pictures"?????

FLSteve :unsure:
As soon as @Jim pays the invoice. Then I can disclose the hard labor :)

Short story, it's just a matter of taking a 7/16" wrench or socket and adjusting the hooks on the coach side. Check up/down so your paint lines match, then move them in/out to your liking. I had to move Jim's slightly out (away from coach) so the gasket wasn't compressed so much you had to super slam the door. Slamming the doors will cause a slight "nail pop" indentation (outward) in the thin aluminum door if you slam them a lot. My test of what's right is my ability to push hard on the door, not slamming, just close and push, until it latches. If you can't push it to latch then the "hook" on the basement side needs to come outward. You still want the gasket to compress for water protection, but no need to super slam a door.
 
Thanks for that explanation @Neal. I tried to do mine once, but…fail. My attempt resulted in some unmatched paint lines. Will try again.
 
Also,.. if done with suspension dumped or not at ride height, it will change slightly when on suspension.
 
I also have challenges with balancing getting the doors aligned to minimize slamming while keeping the paint aligned. For now, I split the difference.
I feel like I would need to remove the door to adjust where the hinges are attached…
 
I feel like I would need to remove the door to adjust where the hinges are attached…
That really wouldn’t work. There are about 20 screws holding the hinge to the coach and the same # of rivets holding the door to the hinge. There is no room for new holes to realign the hinge/door, and the adjustment needed would be so small that the new screw holes would interfere/overlap the old ones. Also some doors arent removable without first removing the wheel well body work first, which would be a total pain and renders them more or less unremovable. I’m not really ready to tell the story yet, but I speak from first hand experience.
 
Yea…. Don’t disagree. Which is why I never did it….
 
Also,.. if done with suspension dumped or not at ride height, it will change slightly when on suspension.
I am up at Nappanee right now and asked this question ... and my tech said that they make all door adjustments with the coach aired up at ride height and all slides in.

FLSteve
 
I adjusted my forward passenger side door to get paint lines to better align and that caused problems with closing the door. It would work but require a slam, so I reverted to my hard push test. I realize all of the aired up and whatever yadda yadda, but I also think after years things flex and move so adjust expectations accordingly. I care more for a properly closing door than paint lining up.
 
Yea…. Don’t disagree. Which is why I never did it….
I had to replace a door this year and bought this to secure the hinge to the new door: M12™ Rivet Tool (Tool Only)
Really made all the difference in the world over a hand rivet gun and half the cost of a good air unit. Very nice and makes a very tight rivet joint. Hopefully you’ll never need one but if you do have to re-rivet a hinge to a door, this is the tool for it. My wet bay door hinge is a little sloppy and I might remove and re-rivet it now that I have the technology.
 
@Jim I've heard there is a sticker on the driver's window that has info on the specialist to call for your model. I am not sure if that sticker is removed since you bought it used?
I have communicated with Devon Miller - he's been with the company for like 52+ years and does the estimating for them.
 
Another Happy Camper with Newmar's Customer Service Center. We were there again this past May with good results.
 

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