Fender completely ripped off

[JeffAndPam]

One of our fenders completely ripped off. Would like to know a relatively easy approach to get this back on.
It's a 2005, so it doesn't need to be a polished solution.

 

[Underboss]

You could try to glue or epoxy all the broken tabs back on and reinstall. Make sure you keep all in the same order

 

[JeffAndPam]

Question: I noticed my thread got moved to the "Fleetwood" forum.
I'm curious to know why. When my question seems unique to Fleetwood, I post it there.

But I feel like this is generic enough that I'd like to hear from a wider audience, not just Fleetwood owners.
Perhaps others have found a good way to get a fender back on, regardless of what type of RV it is.

Just curious really...

 

[NWIP]

One of our fenders completely ripped off. Would like to know a relatively easy approach to get this back on.
It's a 2005, so it doesn't need to be a polished solution.

View attachment 22421

View attachment 22422

I like @Underboss suggestion and might consider adding a little fiberglass embedded in the epoxy for strength

 

[GypsyR]

I think I would try to superglue it back on to the tabs. Just to make sure they are in the correct position. Then remove it all and work on it from the backside. Superglue by itself isn't that strong so you'd want to just loosen all the screws first. In any case one or two tabs might not stick. Put them back on later.

The real repair would be on the backside. Lately it's been a 50/50 shot whether epoxy works on such issues for me. Not real thrilled with that. I've been using superglue and graphite for some things. Superglue and baking soda for others. It's surprisingly strong and when you use the glue with various powders it basically sets instantly. Like we always wished superglue would. For more details and examples there are bunches of how-to videos on Youtube. One latest one I saw they were using it with cement. You can do some pretty slick repairs with it but each and every one tends to be pretty ugly. Hence doing the work on the back as much as possible.

 

[JeffAndPam]

I think I would try to superglue it back on to the tabs. Just to make sure they are in the correct position. Then remove it all and work on it from the backside.

That was good advice! Trying to line the broken pieces up after taking them off would be problematic.
I'll temporarily tape the whole fender on for placement, then superglue, then remove everything and work from the backside.
Thank you!

 

[Nanoman]

One of our fenders completely ripped off. Would like to know a relatively easy approach to get this back on.
It's a 2005, so it doesn't need to be a polished solution.

For some reason I can get the link to paste. But I have had a lot of luck with this product.

Super CA Glue (2 x 4.5 oz.) with Spray Adhesive Activator (2 x 16.9 fl oz.) Ca Glue with Activator for Wood, Plastic, Metal, Leather, Ceramic - Cyanoacrylate Glue for Crafting&Building (2 Pk) (amazon of course)​

Got be fast though.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

So it's not a fender skirt right? When in place you won't care to take it off again, right?

That taken care of! I would follow the above advice but would finish the job off with UHB 3M double sided tape applied between the bolts.

 

[Jim]

Still waiting to hear how it happened in the first place?

 

[Wemustrv]

So I had an issue similar to this with my motorhome rear cap. I made come small aluminum "U" clips that extended past both dies of the broken tab and fiberglass resin glued the clips and the broken tab together and then slipped them back on to the main part of the fender glue and riveted them in place and re mounted the fender then overlaid with fiberglass cloth and painted. Pictures show the result. There was much more to this project as I actually pulled the entire endcap off the RV. The top corner shown in the picture was torn off and I reattached glassed and painted. AS you can see I pulled every screw through the glass so it was quite a project.

 

[DavidL]

You could:
Measure the arc of the old fender when properly applied to the RV.
Put the old fender ontop of some FRP that can be purchased from HomeDepot (panelling department) and recreate the arc dimension. Draw the inside line to what will be touching the RV panel (the white area). Cut the outline out with a right angle grinder. Cut on the line so it's slightly smaller than the fender.
Use the grinder and rough up the side facing the fender. Use "DuraGlass" and "glue" the FRP to the backside of the fender ensuring the Arc is same as measured. Glue on old tabs, matched to the fender breaks before the DuraGlass cures. DuraGlass is like body plastic, but with some fiberglass in it for super strength.
When dry, drill the tab holes through the FRP.
Reapply to the RV with the original screws. Other than it will be slightly proud of the RV side, it will look like new and will be stronger than original.

This is a 3 hour fix.

A simpler fix, if you don't care that the fender flare is removable, crazy glue the tabs to their position on the fender, rough up the white area with a flap wheel on the right angle grinder, and just Duraglass the old broken flare right to it. Lightly put the screws into the brackets until all is cured.
This is a 1 hour fix.

 

[JeffAndPam]

it was quite a project.

WELL said!

That one would be beyond my (current) abilities.

 

[JeffAndPam]

Still waiting to hear how it happened in the first place?

Me too! Previous owner briefly told us it came off and they stuck it in one of the bins.

 

[JeffAndPam]

Use "DuraGlass" and "glue" the FRP to the backside of the fender

Very good details. Thanks for the thorough response.

Your mention of "DuraGlass" (had to look it up) makes me want to add another question to this:
I have a hole on the side of the RV that needs patching. (I have so many questions about this RV, I'm having to trickle them on here). It's about 3" by over a foot in size.

So when I go to tackle that project, I'll need to purchase some product. Would "DuraGlass" be useful for that project also?

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Very good details. Thanks for the thorough response.

Your mention of "DuraGlass" (had to look it up) makes me want to add another question to this:
I have a hole on the side of the RV that needs patching. (I have so many questions about this RV, I'm having to trickle them on here). It's about 3" by over a foot in size.

So when I go to tackle that project, I'll need to purchase some product. Would "DuraGlass" be useful for that project also?

Take a picture of the damage

 

[DavidL]

Very good details. Thanks for the thorough response.

Your mention of "DuraGlass" (had to look it up) makes me want to add another question to this:
I have a hole on the side of the RV that needs patching. (I have so many questions about this RV, I'm having to trickle them on here). It's about 3" by over a foot in size.

So when I go to tackle that project, I'll need to purchase some product. Would "DuraGlass" be useful for that project also?

Without seeing the damage, that sounds more like a fiberglass cloth / resin repair. Duraglass is good to fill voids (like between the flare and the body). Fiberglass is better to larger gaps without adding much weight. You would need to put some wood / foam as a form for the wet glass until it hardens.

 

[JeffAndPam]

Take a picture of the damage

Here's that damage. It was a problem I was going to tackle another day (as I mentioned, I have many questions, but am trying to not post too many at a time).

But since it could be related, it might help me decide what products to be purchasing for that fender repair.


BTW, @Jim , and others curious on the story behind this one. I know this one FIRST HAND:

1. New RV owner
2. 34 foot class A
3. Parked VERY close
4. Quickly learned what "tail swing" meant...the hard way

 

[DavidL]

View attachment 22443
Here's that damage. It was a problem I was going to tackle another day (as I mentioned, I have many questions, but am trying to not post too many at a time).

But since it could be related, it might help me decide what products to be purchasing for that fender repair.


BTW, @Jim , and others curious on the story behind this one. I know this one FIRST HAND:

1. New RV owner
2. 34 foot class A
3. Parked VERY close
4. Quickly learned what "tail swing" meant...the hard way

Ok for that gash, You would take the flap wheel and clean up the whole area almost up to the stripe. Make a bevel around the cracks. Can you get behind that damage? Let's assume you can't. cut 4 layers of random direction fiberglass (HomeDepot) that are progressively larger. The smallest fits into the cracks in the hole. Just brush some activated resin all around and in the depression (that's not a hole...because there is material there you can use to support the wet fiberglass)...then place the smallest piece of glass in the depression. More resin till the glass is near clear. Then another layer. Finally the last two pieces are larger than the cracked area and into the depression you ground. Let it all dry. Flap wheel it flat. Use body plastic (not Duraglass) to smooth it all out. Switch to flat sandpaper (60 then 100 then 200 then 400 grit as all gets level and smooth) on a sandpaper block (to unsure it's flat). You will need multiple coats of body plastic.

Use spot putty and skim coat to fill pinholes. Dry. Wet sand with 400.
prime, sand, paint, clear coat larger than damage area to blend.

if you don't have paint equipment, you might want to bring the prepared RV to a body shop and let them do that.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

So put a straight edge over the damage to see how depressed the area is. That way you know how much glass you need. Matt is easier to blend. If foam is exposed you may be able to use west systems epoxy. Polyester resin will melt most foam, but test epoxy on a location that won't be hurt if the foam disappears. Epoxy uses equal amounts of the two parts.

Save a bunch of time by placing polyethylene plastic over the epoxy and squeegee flat.

Note that flat surfaces are very difficult to hide bodywork. Sanding primer (several coats, Sanding between coats) will get rid of that very hard to get rid of edge that many don't know how to hide. Any Sanding should be done with a body Sanding board.

 

[GypsyR]

That gash will require some actual bodywork. I suggest using fiberglass "gel" instead of resin. Resin is awful on vertical surfaces, it always wants to drip down. Gel (any parts store) on application doesn't sag on application and acts more like body filler. It doesn't penetrate fiber cloth as well as resin though, an important consideration for repairs that are more structural than just cosmetic. For the fine finish work you will want to use some actual body filler on top of your fiberglass, so leave the fiberglass dished in just a tiny bit. You can sand it back if needed.
I've seen where Bondo (at least) now sells small tubes of their filler and some activator just for small repairs. If that single gash is all you need to fix one or two of those might be better than buying a big can. Cans will go "bad" over a long time.