Atwood GH6-8E no propane lighting.

[TXfreeze]

The engine cooling heat transfer feature on this water heater works, the switch works, I can see sparks when the switch is turned on, it just won't ignite, I checked the tube for obstructions there are none and no nests in the the exhausts, the propane tank valve is open to full, checked burners and flow is fine, is there a valve on the water heater itself that could be closed, if not what would be causing this?

 

[Kevin D Pem]

it can take a while for propane to make it to the unit.

 

[Amoque]

Can you smell propane? Does the flame of your lighter get displaced by the flow of gas/ air through the pipe? I never want to seem an expert because so often makes/ models/ years change the way it works...

My first thought is that your not heating the igniter valve sufficiently. There's a valve (meant to keep the gas from leaking out if the pilot goes out) that must get and stay hot or the gas shuts off. We fought mightily when our Outdoors RV was new, finding the "sweet spot" to get that valve hot enough it would stay open. First instinct was to light the gas port/ pilot light., but it just wouldn't go, then once lit we'd move the lighter away and... nothing. Very frustrating.

If all seems well, maybe have a friend or someone experienced or at a dealer give it a try - once you know how, it's like riding a unicycle.

 

[TXfreeze]

Can you smell propane? Does the flame of your lighter get displaced by the flow of gas/ air through the pipe? I never want to seem an expert because so often makes/ models/ years change the way it works...

My first thought is that your not heating the igniter valve sufficiently. There's a valve (meant to keep the gas from leaking out if the pilot goes out) that must get and stay hot or the gas shuts off. We fought mightily when our Outdoors RV was new, finding the "sweet spot" to get that valve hot enough it would stay open. First instinct was to light the gas port/ pilot light., but it just wouldn't go, then once lit we'd move the lighter away and... nothing. Very frustrating.

If all seems well, maybe have a friend or someone experienced or at a dealer give it a try - once you know how, it's like riding a unicycle.

No can't smell any propane, there is no flame only about 3-4 sparks, I think I need to get past the spark point before any of the other applies, I might have to get a repair tech on it.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

Does your water heater have a pilot light, or a piezo-electric ignition. From your description of “sparks,” it would seem to be the latter. If so, the gas valve is likely faulty. It is supposed to open just long enough for the burner to light and heat the thermocouple. If the burner does not light and keep the thermocouple heated, the burner will go out.

Since you don’t seem to be getting even a brief lighting of the burner, it would appear that either the gas valve or the thermocouple has failed. Both are relatively common issues.

I would try heating the thermocouple with a small, propane/butane BBQ lighter to see of the burner activates (do it carefully, please). Look for a closed-end tube/bulb with a small tube leading away from it. If heating it does not cause the burner to ignite, I would strongly suspect a failed gas valve.

TJ

 

[Gronk]

Did a search and found a manual for that heater: Atwood GH6-8E Manuals | ManualsLib Trouble shooting is there for both the pilot and DSI models. Which one do you have? They are different to troubleshoot.........

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Have someone turn on the heater while you listen for and feel the gas solenoid click. If you can't feel and hear the solenoid click then the solenoid or board is faulty.

Well maybe. Have you checked the batteries voltage?

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

Did a search and found a manual for that heater: Atwood GH6-8E Manuals | ManualsLib Trouble shooting is there for both the pilot and DSI models. Which one do you have? They are different to troubleshoot.........

I believe since he mentioned seeing/hearing a series of sparks, he has the DSI version.

TJ

 

[Gronk]

I believe since he mentioned seeing/hearing a series of sparks, he has the DSI version.

TJ

I believe you are correct, but with all the mention of a pilot, sometimes it's somewhat difficult to determine what they actually have. That's why I asked.

 

[TXfreeze]

Thanks for the manual, given that that it’s a electronic igniter, would it still be advised to heat the thermocouple, or does the E.C.O. have to be replaced?

 

[TXfreeze]

Have someone turn on the heater while you listen for and feel the gas solenoid click. If you can't feel and hear the solenoid click then the solenoid or board is faulty.

Well maybe. Have you checked the batteries voltage?

Solenoid clicks, coach batteries are at full charge.

 

[TXfreeze]

The engine cooling heat transfer feature on this water heater works, the switch works, I can see sparks when the switch is turned on, it just won't ignite, I checked the tube for obstructions there are none and no nests in the the exhausts, the propane tank valve is open to full, checked burners and flow is fine, is there a valve on the water heater itself that could be closed, if not what would be causing this?

So that would be with propane on I take it, like lighting a pilot or no?

 

[Gronk]

No pilot. Your water heater has DSI (Direct Spark Ignition). The way it is supposed to work is that when the thermostat says the water needs heated the control sends power to the spark rod and opens the gas valve at the same time. If you are standing next to the water heater you should hear the spark (snap, snap, snap) and the gas valve should make a soft clunk sound. If you hear those sounds then they are operating properly and there is a blockage either in the orifice or even the screen in the inlet of the valve is plugged (unlikely). There is also the possibility of the control board failure. That could manifest itself in a few ways, but the end result is the same. Some of the time you can look at the board and see a burned spot on it. IF by chance you need a board, the one that seems to be the best on the market is a Dinosaur Board (Dinosaur Electronics Home. High quality circuit boards for RV appliances.). The boards are very easy to replace, just pretty much plug and play.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

IF by chance you need a board, the one that seems to be the best on the market is a Dinosaur Board (Dinosaur Electronics Home. High quality circuit boards for RV appliances.). The boards are very easy to replace, just pretty much plug and play.

Dinosaur makes good replacement boards; I have used them in the past. In a lot of cases, they are the only source for replacement boards.

TJ

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Solenoid clicks, not board! I would clean the orifice, likely dirt plugging it. Who knows maybe a piece of white Teflon tape ?.

 

[TXfreeze]

No pilot. Your water heater has DSI (Direct Spark Ignition). The way it is supposed to work is that when the thermostat says the water needs heated the control sends power to the spark rod and opens the gas valve at the same time. If you are standing next to the water heater you should hear the spark (snap, snap, snap) and the gas valve should make a soft clunk sound. If you hear those sounds then they are operating properly and there is a blockage either in the orifice or even the screen in the inlet of the valve is plugged (unlikely). There is also the possibility of the control board failure. That could manifest itself in a few ways, but the end result is the same. Some of the time you can look at the board and see a burned spot on it. IF by chance you need a board, the one that seems to be the best on the market is a Dinosaur Board (Dinosaur Electronics Home. High quality circuit boards for RV appliances.). The boards are very easy to replace, just pretty much plug and play.

I checked out the boards but I don't see any mention of Atwood and there doesn't seem to be any prices listed.

 

[TXfreeze]

Solenoid clicks, not board! I would clean the orifice, likely dirt plugging it. Who knows maybe a piece of white Teflon tape ?.

Is the orifice part of the igniter tube? A piece of what Teflon blocking a the orifice?

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Is the orifice part of the igniter tube? A piece of what Teflon blocking a the orifice?

forget that I made the comment about teflon tape. the ofifice is screwed into the valve end that connects to the burner tube/venturi. you will need to take the burner tube out of the heater to get to the orifice. screw the orifice out of the valve and see if you can see light in the little hole in the orifice. DON"T use a wire to clean the hole out. if anything use air pressure to back flush to clean the orifice. they make cleaner wires for the job but I would first try cleaning it with air.

 

[Gronk]

Look on this page for the *NEW* UIB64 board. Ignitor Board Index page Amazon shows that board for $122

 

[TXfreeze]

Ok I’m going to take a second look at the board more closely looking for any signs of damage I’ll post a pic if I can. I’ve heard if you take the board off you can take it to any Atwood dealer and they will test it for free.