Atwood GH6-8E no propane lighting.

[TXheat]

Have someone turn on the heater while you listen for and feel the gas solenoid click. If you can't feel and hear the solenoid click then the solenoid or board is faulty.

Well maybe. Have you checked the batteries voltage?

Solenoid clicks, coach batteries are at full charge.

 

[TXheat]

The engine cooling heat transfer feature on this water heater works, the switch works, I can see sparks when the switch is turned on, it just won't ignite, I checked the tube for obstructions there are none and no nests in the the exhausts, the propane tank valve is open to full, checked burners and flow is fine, is there a valve on the water heater itself that could be closed, if not what would be causing this?

So that would be with propane on I take it, like lighting a pilot or no?

 

[Gronk]

No pilot. Your water heater has DSI (Direct Spark Ignition). The way it is supposed to work is that when the thermostat says the water needs heated the control sends power to the spark rod and opens the gas valve at the same time. If you are standing next to the water heater you should hear the spark (snap, snap, snap) and the gas valve should make a soft clunk sound. If you hear those sounds then they are operating properly and there is a blockage either in the orifice or even the screen in the inlet of the valve is plugged (unlikely). There is also the possibility of the control board failure. That could manifest itself in a few ways, but the end result is the same. Some of the time you can look at the board and see a burned spot on it. IF by chance you need a board, the one that seems to be the best on the market is a Dinosaur Board (Dinosaur Electronics Home. High quality circuit boards for RV appliances.). The boards are very easy to replace, just pretty much plug and play.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

IF by chance you need a board, the one that seems to be the best on the market is a Dinosaur Board (Dinosaur Electronics Home. High quality circuit boards for RV appliances.). The boards are very easy to replace, just pretty much plug and play.

Dinosaur makes good replacement boards; I have used them in the past. In a lot of cases, they are the only source for replacement boards.

TJ

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Solenoid clicks, not board! I would clean the orifice, likely dirt plugging it. Who knows maybe a piece of white Teflon tape ?.

 

[TXheat]

No pilot. Your water heater has DSI (Direct Spark Ignition). The way it is supposed to work is that when the thermostat says the water needs heated the control sends power to the spark rod and opens the gas valve at the same time. If you are standing next to the water heater you should hear the spark (snap, snap, snap) and the gas valve should make a soft clunk sound. If you hear those sounds then they are operating properly and there is a blockage either in the orifice or even the screen in the inlet of the valve is plugged (unlikely). There is also the possibility of the control board failure. That could manifest itself in a few ways, but the end result is the same. Some of the time you can look at the board and see a burned spot on it. IF by chance you need a board, the one that seems to be the best on the market is a Dinosaur Board (Dinosaur Electronics Home. High quality circuit boards for RV appliances.). The boards are very easy to replace, just pretty much plug and play.

I checked out the boards but I don't see any mention of Atwood and there doesn't seem to be any prices listed.

 

[TXheat]

Solenoid clicks, not board! I would clean the orifice, likely dirt plugging it. Who knows maybe a piece of white Teflon tape ?.

Is the orifice part of the igniter tube? A piece of what Teflon blocking a the orifice?

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Is the orifice part of the igniter tube? A piece of what Teflon blocking a the orifice?

forget that I made the comment about teflon tape. the ofifice is screwed into the valve end that connects to the burner tube/venturi. you will need to take the burner tube out of the heater to get to the orifice. screw the orifice out of the valve and see if you can see light in the little hole in the orifice. DON"T use a wire to clean the hole out. if anything use air pressure to back flush to clean the orifice. they make cleaner wires for the job but I would first try cleaning it with air.

 

[Gronk]

Look on this page for the *NEW* UIB64 board. Ignitor Board Index page Amazon shows that board for $122

 

[TXheat]

Ok I’m going to take a second look at the board more closely looking for any signs of damage I’ll post a pic if I can. I’ve heard if you take the board off you can take it to any Atwood dealer and they will test it for free.